IMPORTANT TIPS & INFORMATION OF DOG MATING & BREEDING FOR DOG BREEDERS & PET PARENTS

June 3, 2022

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When choosing a dog, potential pet owners often consider acquiring a pup with a pedigree vs. a mixed breed. In order to make a more educated choice, it is good to know a little about what makes a pure breed so ‘pure,’ as well as what ‘mutts’ have to offer.

What is a purebred?

The creation of a pure canine bloodline is historically a complex accomplishment. Specific dog breeds were originally developed and refined over many generations to develop traits that made them suitable for certain jobs. Mating two dogs with specific traits was arranged to produce pups that could accomplish certain tasks; e.g., run fast, pull sleds, guard property, or retrieve birds. The best pups of the litter were identified and selected for future breeding. After several generations of critical selection, pups with specific traits were consistently produced and a new “breed” was identified – Greyhounds for speed, Huskies for sledding, German Shepherds for protection, Labradors for retrieving birds, etc.

Around the end of the 19th century, selective breeding gained popularity for a totally different reason. The affluent population of pet owners gathered at social functions and enjoyed parading their dogs around, comparing them to other dogs. From this pastime, a new sport of showing dogs emerged. To ensure fair competition in the show ring, written breed standards were adopted that described each specific breed’s appearance and temperament and reflected the breed’s original function. At dog shows, the best specimen of a particular breed was deemed the winner.

The goal of breeding and selecting dogs with certain physical features, whether for work or show, is to produce the ‘ideal’ dog. A consequence of this process may be inbreeding, which results in some less desirable genetic traits becoming more common along with the traits people are trying for. If there is a recessive gene for an inherited disease, such as hip dysplasia, a pup born of two related dogs has an increased chance of having that particular problem.

Natural mating of related dogs is not the only way inherited defects permeate a breed. Sometimes, a male dog that fits the breed standard and wins numerous championships will be used to father many litters (naturally or through artificial insemination) from totally unrelated mothers, and his genes, both good and bad, become widely spread through the breed. Even though the mother and father are not related, there is a good chance that future generations will be linked through the father. If two dogs of the same breed have a puppy, that little pup is considered to be purebred. In order to be classed as a pedigree, the puppy must also be added to a pedigree dog registration scheme run by a recognised club or society.

Choosing a stud

The stud you choose should have a pedigree that is compatible with your bitch, as well as a clean bill of health. Before breeding, the stud should be checked for inherited diseases which apply to that breed.

Of course, you can always choose to create a crossbreed litter. Some mixed breed dogs are immensely popular, mixing the best characteristics of two pedigrees.

Celebrated examples include the Cavachon (Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and Bichon Frise), the Labradoodle (Labrador Poodle), the Cockapoo (Cocker Spaniel and Poodle) and the Goberian (Golden Retriever and Siberian Husky).

The breeding process

Once you are confident that the bitch and stud you have chosen are suitable for breeding and that you have the resources required, it’s time to start the actual breeding process.

A bitch is suitable for mating when she is over one year old and has had at least one normal season.

Most bitches will come on heat twice a year once they are in season. The age at which bitches come into season for the first time can be as old as two – larger breeds tend to be later.

The best time to mate a bitch is around the 11-14th day of her season (from 11 days after the first day of bleeding).

However, this is hard to predict as some bitches will accept a dog earlier, while others will not accept the dog until later. A vet may be able to carry out hormonal testing on the bitch to check the best date for trying to mate.

To mate the dogs, they are brought into the same space and usually, nature takes its course if the female is in the right stage of her cycle. Bitches will be in whelp for around 63 days.

The whelping process

From 21 days after mating, a vet can check if your bitch is pregnant by testing for the hormone relaxing and manual checks to see if the uterus is thickening.

This may be covered by your multi pet insurance. From 28 days, puppy heartbeats may be heard with a stethoscope and the pups should show up on an ultrasound scan. This should also show how many pups will be in the litter.

During pregnancy, your dog should start out with the same healthy diet and exercise regime she is used to. When she is ready to give birth, she may seem restless and scratch at the ground or her bed.

This is when you make up a whelping box. This should be of a size to allow the bitch to come and go easily, but confine the puppies and keep out draughts. It should be lined with bedding that is soft and durable, such as old blankets or sheets.

The dam-to-be may pant and urinate frequently as whelping approaches. Within a few hours, the puppies should start to appear – the dog can usually handle this herself, but keep watch for signs a vet is needed.

You may need equipment such as towels, thread and scissors for tying umbilical cord, and plenty of bedding – things can get messy.When the pups are born, they may need to be wrapped in towels or warmed with hot water bottles while the dam is busy birthing the rest of the litter. When whelping is complete, clean out the bedding then leave the new mother alone to rest and begin nursing her puppies in peace.While crossbreeding can be very successful, producing a unique-looking dog who often escapes congenital issues associated with the parents’ breeds, it is also an unpredictable process.The size and temperament of crossbreed dogs is hard to predict, and deliveries can also be higher risk, perhaps even requiring a caesarean section.

How are safe breeding practices ensured?

Dogs of pedigree can be wonderful pets or service dogs, so avoiding inherited medical problems is important. To safeguard the integrity and health of a bloodline, guidelines have been developed.

Review pedigrees prior to mating to ensure that you are not breeding close relatives. Most pedigrees outline ancestors for several generations.
Use several breeding males and females to add diversity to the population.
Avoid mating siblings to siblings, and parents to offspring. Mating of distant cousins is okay.
Do not breed dogs with known genetic defects. It is best to have these dogs spayed or neutered.

How do breed standards help?

Breed standards help educate potential pet owners about what to expect when choosing a specific dog breed. People can research breed standards for information about the size, temperament, and potential health problems of their chosen pup. Future dog owners can anticipate how big the pup will be and what he will look like. On the other hand, knowing the breed in and out, you can know what medical problems to watch for. A few examples include:

Bulldogs are particularly prone to respiratory problems associated with their short nose and elongated soft palate.
Pugs tend to experience ocular problems associated with their bulging eyes (corneal ulcers, proptosed or popped out eyeball).
Beagles often have epileptic seizures.
Shih Tzus, Toy Poodles, and Yorkshire Terriers may have luxating patellas (knee caps) that cause intermittent lameness.

It is important to understand that any dog of any breed can have these health issues but certain breeds are more predisposed than others. Mixed breed dogs, while not exempt from these medical problems, are less likely to develop them due to ‘hybrid vigor’ – a variety of genetic material gives mutts a health advantage over their upper crust canine companions.

What are some of the pros and cons of pedigree?

There are pros and cons to choosing a purebred dog over a Heinz 57 pup.

Pros: You will have a good idea what your pup will be like when he grows up. A mixed breed pup cannot be as easily pegged.

Cons: Your dog may have a health or behavioral issue related to his carefully scripted blood line that may show up immediately or become evident later in life.

The Problem with Pedigree Dogs

The dog (canis lupis familiaris) is one species which over the world has over 1000 different breeds. Dog breeds developed over hundreds, maybe thousands of years, to fulfil specific functions, such as the ability to run fast, hunt for prey, pick up birds, pull sledges, guard property, search and rescue, etc. Aside from this dogs are the natural companion for humans, and a close relationship between our two species has developed over millennia.

Towards the end of the 19th century a new hobby began to emerge: dog showing. People with leisure time to spare gathered socially and paraded their pet dogs in a competition to find the most beautiful dog. Later, this developed into competitions to find the best specimen of a particular breed. The first Crufts dog show took place in 1891 and the idea of a ‘purebred dog’ began to take hold. Purebred dogs were regarded as somehow better than mixed breed dogs, which were (and still are) referred to as ‘mongrels’. The Kennel Club was founded to run dog shows and make the rules for breeding and showing. It also registers all pedigree dogs and issues pedigree certificates so that a dog’s ancestry can be traced.

In order to maintain ‘purity’ each breed had a written description of its size and appearance, called a breed standard. Once a breed had been established the stud books were closed.

This means that in order to breed a purebred dog you must only breed within this closed gene pool. Further selection took place due to the competitive nature of dog showing – everyone trying to breed from dogs which had a Champion (or many) in its pedigree. Certain dogs which were greatly admired were, and still are, over used – the so called ‘popular sire syndrome.’ In this way a breed’s gene pool becomes narrower and narrower, and if a popular dog happens to carry faulty or disease causing genes (gene mutations) this will be spread far and wide throughout the breed population. Genes are inherited in pairs, one each from the dam (mother) and sire (father).

For many diseases a dog would need to inherit a deleterious (harmful) gene from both its dam and sire. The narrower the gene pool in a dog breed the more likely this is to happen.

Generally speaking, a healthy species is one that has a great deal of genetic diversity, like humans. Genetic diseases do occur in humans but they are rare, whereas in dog breeds a genetic disease can affect a large proportion of the population.

So, are pedigree dogs a bad thing?

No, not necessarily, and most dog owners will have preferences about the type of dog they have as a pet. Obviously the dog would need to fit in with their circumstances and lifestyle.

There are ways that you can retain most of the dog breeds, if care is taken by breeders and breed clubs to have a proper breeding strategy. The aim of this would be to maintain as much genetic diversity as possible within the breed.

Here are some suggestions:

Using as many males as females in a breeding population. Avoid the ‘popular sire’ effect.
Avoiding incestuous matings. No matings closer than cousins should ever take place.
Keeping the coefficient of inbreeding (COI) as low as possible over 8 to 10 generations
Using the Kennel Clubs Mate Select programme to find out the COI of any proposed mating. Check this with the breed’s average COI and only breed when the COI result will be lower than the breed average.
Analysing parental pedigrees before any mating and avoiding matings where the same name appears on both sides of the pedigree.
Using assortative mating (mating unrelated parents who are similar for the desired traits) instead of inbreeding/line breeding.
Keeping generation time as high as possible. This is because genetic losses occur with each generation so the larger the gap between generations the better (ie, four years between generations is better than two)
Avoiding repeat breeding (the same two dogs more than once or twice)
Using at least two of a litter for future breeding rather than just one (the ‘best’ one).
Out crossing within a breed rather than using dogs from one kennel. Ideally this should include dogs from overseas populations.
Breeding for balanced traits (health, vitality, temperament, working ability, intelligence, structure, and type) rather than focussing of one or two traits.
Occasionally breeding to a related breed (for example, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels to say a Cocker Spaniel). No-one would know the difference in a couple of generations.

If proper care was taken with our dog breeds along these lines the risk of genetic diseases would be much lower.

Needless to say, any dog breed which encourages unhealthy physical traits should be bred back to a less exaggerated type. If necessary the breed standard should be re-written to prevent interpretations by breeders and show judges that are harmful to the dog.

Method of Artificial Insemination

These days, there are many ways for breeders to achieve their goals. While natural breeding may be preferred, it is not always an option. Although using fresh or fresh-chilled semen allows for the most convenient and less technical breedings, frozen semen can allow for the use of superior genetics from dogs that are no longer able to be collected.

Transvaginal Insemination – The most common and least technical method of artificial insemination is transvaginal insemination. In this technique, an insemination pipette is used to deposit semen into the vagina just in front of the cervix. This technique should only be used with good quality semen (fresh or fresh-chilled) and in a bitch with good fertility. Many will use this technique when breeding cannot be accomplished due to location of the bitch and/or dog, physical inability, or behavioral issues that would prevent natural breeding.

This technique is one that can be performed by the breeder with minimal training and equipment. It is important to make sure that the appropriate size insemination pipette is used. Since the semen is not pushed through the cervix (as with natural mating), the bitch’s hindquarters are elevated for 10-to-15 minutes after the semen is deposited to help encourage semen pooling and increased litter sizes.

Transcervical Insemination – Transcervical insemination (TCI) is a technique that is popular because it can be used with any form of semen (fresh, fresh-chilled, and frozen). It is one of the few options that should be used with frozen or poor-quality semen. It is a good option for large and giant breed dogs and when only one breeding can be performed. This technique can be performed either with palpation or the use of an endoscope to help see the cervix. In this technique, a special instrument is used to bypass the cervix and deposit semen directly into the uterus. Sedation is typically not needed, as most bitches will stand for the procedure. This procedure does involve the use of specialized equipment and a trained inseminator, which can add additional cost.

Surgical Insemination – The final insemination technique to discuss is surgical insemination. As with TCI, reproductive veterinarians recommend that this technicque be used with frozen or poor-quality semen. It is also a good choice for older females, females with poor fertility, and those with uterine pathology. This procedure does require the use of anesthesia. An incision is made into the abdomen, and the uterus is found. The semen is injected either into the uterine body or at the base of either horn. This procedure can be done laparoscopically, but because this requires additional equipment, training, and cost, it is generally not preferred. Conception rates can be as high as 100 percent when the estrus cycle has been appropriately managed.
Artificial insemination has become a popular means of mating, and, with the development of these different techniques, it can be performed easily and with relatively good conception rates and litter sizes. The important aspect with any of these techniques is proper cycle management. If the breeding is not performed at the correct time during a female’s estrous cycle, fertility rates can suffer.

Regulations related to Dog Breeding in India.

“THE GREATNESS OF A NATION CAN BE JUDGED BY THE WAY ITS ANIMALS ARE TREATED” MAHATMA GANDHI

Dog breeding is the practice of mating dogs with each other with an intent to maintain or produce specific qualities and characteristics. The Ministry of Environment and Forest has published draft rules to regulate dog breeders across the country. The rules are to stop cruelty to animals. It seeks to prevent infliction cruelty on animals in this business. Dog breeding business is increasing day by day as everyone is interested in the new species of dogs. The government has also invited people for their suggestions on the Draft notification of Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (Dog Breeding And Marketing) Rules 2016.

For all the dog breeders it is mandatory to register themselves with the State Animal Welfare Board of the respective States under the new rules. In the Rules, the requirement for the breeders has been given such as related to health, housing facilities and conditions for sale.

Pedigree dogs

Imported dogs or high breed dogs are called pedigree dogs like Husky, German Shepherd, Rottweiler, Labrador, Doberman, and pug. In 2016, Director General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) bans pedigree dog import. Import of pedigree dogs will only be allowed for defense and police forces. Breeder in India can not import pedigree dogs now as per the ban. This ban is to prevent the suffering of thousands of dogs. As per People For Animal (PFA), this ban will stop the rise of the street dog population as many pedigree dogs end up on the roads. Breeders like Husky, St. Bernard can not survive in high temperature as these dogs are suitable for snow like temperature. This ban will also help to prevent the breeders to import the breeds which are not suitable for Indian climate.

The Ban on import of pedigree dogs was introduced because of a breeder who imported 2 Korean Mastiff puppies for 2 crore rupees. Korean Mastiff is a breed that ca only survive on mountains. But for money breeders are importing these puppies. To prevent this, the government came with this rule of imposing the ban on pedigree dogs.

Before the rule came in force, the breeders used cruel nature on dogs for breeding. They were sold as commodities, kept in unsuitable conditions. The female dogs were kept in short chain for all their lives and were treated in heinous behavior. The female dogs were actually raped to produce more and more puppies so that breeders can sell them and earn profit from it. Home delivery of the puppies was done by the breeders. The Dogs did not have suitable shelter and were kept in small cages. No food was given by breeders for days. This was a cruel behavior by the breeders on animals.

To stop dog breeding, society has to change. Dog breeders are there to earn money. Stop buying dogs instead adopt them. People think that pedigree dogs are better than DESI dogs. But it’s actually opposite. DESI dogs are better than pedigree dogs. and instead of paying so much money for the pedigree dog, you should adopt a Desi dog. This will help the society as there will be fewer dogs on the street and a dog will get a good life. ADOPT DON’T SHOP.

Why You Should Adopt An Indian Dog

Dogs, irrespective of shape, size or breed can melt most hearts in a matter of seconds. Built on love and helped along by round innocent eyes and playful nature, the relationships that humans share with these four-legged creatures is nothing short of precious. The feelings are pretty similar in India as well, with praise for a dog’s character even present in some of our oldest stories.

However, in the modern age, there is a general lack of awareness or preference for Indian dog breeds and a puzzling preference for foreign ones.Did you know that in India 62 million dogs are in shelters without a home or family of their own? Prejudices against Indie dogs not only rob them of a loving home they deserve but also feed a cruel breeding industry that is as unethical as it is illegal. Now, there may be subjective reasons as to why Indie dogs often don’t get the love and appreciation they deserve, but the ones who have adopted Indies will tell you that they feel loved, fulfilled and happy with their desi kids as any other devoted pet parent.

If you are looking to adopt your first, second or nth dog and can’t bring yourself around to the idea of bringing an Indie dog home, let us tell you 5 reasons why they make great pets and are deserving of your home.

Great Companions

Love knows no breed! Indie dogs can be just as loving and delightful as any other dog breed out there. Every pet that you bring home will require effort from your end to adjust to your lifestyle and the new surroundings and with a human willing to put in extra work and adequate support, Indie dogs can be your best friend for life.

Protective & Loyal

Indie dogs are very protective of their pack and families. Not only do Indie dogs make great companion pets, but their ability to sense danger and their fierce protective instincts also make them very good at guarding their homes. Because of their guarding traits and agile structure, Indie dogs have also been known to assist a few special task forces of the Indian police.

Resilient & Adaptable

Indie dogs’ tough physical attributes are a result of natural selection. This not only makes them resilient but also less prone to health conditions as compared to other pedigree dogs. Since they are also native to the Indian climate, most Indie dogs possess a short coat that makes grooming very easy as well. With an appropriate diet, regular vaccinations and adequate exercise, your decision of adopting an indie dog can be a blessing for both you and your canine companion.

Highly Communicative

Indie dogs are naturally intelligent and very communicative. Once they are properly socialised, they can get along well with other dogs as well. Their expressive nature makes sure that you can never have a dull moment with them. Just like with every other dog, Indie dogs have training requirements too, which can be an important factor in making them adjust in your home. Indie dogs’ communicative nature ensures that they can be easily trained and their training progress can also be watched through changes in the way they communicate and express themselves.

Promote Kindness

Breed prejudice is a real thing. The victim of this is both Indie dogs & pedigree dogs who either face cruelty on the streets or unethical breeding practices. India is home to around 80 million homeless cats and dogs. Out of these, 9.1 million are stray cats, 62 million are stray dogs and around 8.8 million are in shelters. Your decision to adopt an indie dog and not shop will not only earn you a loving companion, but it will be a blessing for overcrowded shelters and a step towards positive change in the world of pet parenting. Adopting an Indie dog or adopting a street dog in the larger scheme of things add value to more than just your life. Your decision to adopt always makes a difference.

Here’s a list of striking lesser-known swadeshi breeds you should consider next time when planning a pet.

Rajapalayam

Source: kamalantendulkar

Believed to have originated in South India, specifically Tamil Nadu, the royal Rajapalayam breed is named after the state’s Rajapalayam city of Virudhunagar district and was historically used to guard palaces and even fight wars.

Lean, muscular with a thin white coat, these dogs were often used as hound dogs and have been recorded in history for being trained to fight alongside soldiers in Polygar and Carnatic wars against the East India Company from during 1799 to 1805. Owing to this they are also known as Polygar hounds.

Bakarwal

Source: Bakarwal Dogs (L)

An ancient breed of working dogs, found throughout the Pir Panjal range in the Himalayas, was historically domesticated by Bakarwal and Gujjar nomadic tribes, as livestock guardian dogs. These days they are also trained as militant dogs for law enforcement bodies in the country.

Heavy built, strong with a fluffy coat, Bakarwal dogs are majestic and are well-suited in the colder parts of India.

Bully Kutta

Source: legendary_bullz01

Known as the Indian Mastiff, this breed of large working dogs originates from the 16th century, in the Indian subcontinent. Similar to a bulldog, this muscular breed of dogs is mostly trained in hunting and patrol, it is commonly found across Punjab, Haryana and Delhi.

Historically, this is another dog that was commonly domesticated by the royals, even in Thanjavur. Some reports even mention that the Mughal emperor Akbar once had a Bully Kutta who would often accompany him during hunting trips.

Mudhol Hound

Source: Pranav Kapoor(L)/Vachan N C(R) ; Facebook

Found in parts of Karnataka and Maharashtra, the Mudhol Hound is known for its elegant gait and sharp muscular appearance. Named after an erstwhile princely state Mudhon that was once a part of Bombay Presidency in British India, this dog is said to be bred by the 17th century Maratha king, Chhatrapati Shivaji, to be used in his army.

Bred from a strain of the Caravan Hound, these slender and sleek hunting dogs were reportedly presented by King Malojirao Ghorpade of Mudhol to King George V of England during his visit to the United Kingdom. It was at the time that the English King christened the dogs as the ‘Hounds of Mudhol’.

Chippiparai and Kanni

Source: saravanansellamuthu

A sighthound breed, Chippiparai, or kanni (which means pure) is a breed from Tamil Nadu known for its fierce loyalty and hunting prowess. Since the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972, these grey-hound lookalikes are now used as guard dogs.

Like Mudhol and Rajapalayam, these dogs were also bred by royal families of Tirunelveli and Madurai in Chippiparai, Virudhunagar district of Tamil Nadu.

Gaddi Kutta

Source: crorestoexplore

Also known as Himachali hounds or mastiff, Gaddi Kutta dogs are large and extremely fluffy, owing to their native region being parts of the western Himalayas and parts of Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand. Although originally bred as hunting dogs, they are now widely used by local shepherds, a South Asian tribe called the Gaddis, for protection.

This breed is heavy-built, thick fur and size equips this mastiff to not only survive extreme climate conditions but also deflect attacks from wild animals around, especially as guard dogs for livestock.

Combai

Source: Rajapalayam Hound Dogs

Originating in the hilly regions of Western Ghats, Combais are known for their perseverance and loyalty. Although lack of awareness and demand for domestication has pushed it to the brink of extinction like Rajapalayam and other rare breeds, Combai dogs are extremely intelligent, sharp and powerful.

Excellent as guard dogs, this breed of tan-coloured dogs is known to be energetic, fierce and equally friendly. Like other rare breeds in the region, they were also historically used for boar hunting and guarding needs. Recently, the CRPF recruited Combai dogs for their Dog Breeding and Training School.

Kumaon Mastiff

Source: lighterdogs/Instagram

Fierce and powerful, this dog breed from Uttarakhand is considered to be one of India’s most prized home guardians. Originally known to guard and protect livestock of villagers in the hilly areas of Kumaon, this breed is also at the verge of extinction, and that only a few hundred of them continue to exist today.

Muscular with a short and soft coat and a thick neck, Kumaon Mastiffs’ appearance is quite similar to that of old Great Danes.

Vikhan Sheepdog

Source: Shaad Begam/Facebook

A rare short-fur breed of dogs that originated in Himachal Pradesh, Vikhan dogs are usually bred to guard livestock. Known to be fearless and courageous they are extremely fast and are said to run as fast as leopards.
Owing to their luxuriant coats, these dogs are also compared to the breed of Giant Rough Collies from Scotland.

Pandikona

Source: the___frozen

Another ancient hunting dog found in Andhra Pradesh, this breed originated in the Pattikonda taluk of the Kurnool district. A medium-sized hound well-suited to harsh climate conditions, this breed was commonly domesticated by shepherd families as a guard dog.

Known for their protective instincts and intelligence, Pandikona dogs are extremely courageous and friendly all at the same time, making them one of the best options for watchdogs.

How to Increase Litter Size in Dogs

The number of puppies your dam will have isn’t just a casual happening depending on how the stars are aligned the day of the mating. Rather, you are in control of several factors responsible for dog litter size but may not be aware of it. Following are some factors that play a role in the dam’s litter size.

Your Dog’s Breed

Whether Fluffy has three puppies or ten depends for a good part on her breed. Some breeds are notorious for producing large litters, while several others are more on the conservative side. As a general rule of thumb, you should expect smaller litters in smaller dog breeds and larger litters in larger dog breeds.

Labrador Retrievers were estimated to give birth to about 5–10 happy campers, with the average number being 7.
German Shepherds had between 5–9 with an average of 6.6. American Cocker Spaniels had between 3–7 with an average of 5.
Shetland Sheepdogs had anywhere in between 2–6 pups with an average of 4.3.
Yorkshire Terriers and Chihuahuas had 2–5 pups with an average of 3.3.

However, consider that some small breeds may still yield large litters; the Pekingese, for instance, may yield up to 10 puppies in a litter.

Your Dog’s Age

Age has an effect on litter size. As your dam ages, you should expect a decrease in the number of puppies born compared to a younger dog. Generally, this decrease is noticed in dams of large breeds over the age of five. It is still not well known what causes this decrease, but it’s speculated that it could be caused by a decreased number of follicles or an abnormality in the dam’s uterine lining. It could also be due to premature embryonic death, causing fewer pups to make it to term.

BREEDING DOGS AND REARING PUPPIES

Breeding from your bitch and raising her puppies can be an extremely rewarding experience or it may produce frustration and failure. Pet bitches are often torn between their instinctive desire to be with their puppies and the routines they have acquired with their owners. This can lead to problems and should be borne in mind before breeding is contemplated. Also raising a litter of puppies is an extremely time-consuming exercise and one which should not be embarked upon without due consideration. The following information is provided in order to increase your chances of success.

How often does a bitch come into heat?

The bitch comes into heat about every 6 months, although very large breeds of dogs may cycle anything up to once in 15 months. In most giant breeds (Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, St Bernards etc.) a yearly heat is normal. Normally most dogs are on heat for about 3 weeks.

What are the signs of heat?

The most notable signs of heat are vaginal bleeding and vulval swelling. There are three ‘stages’ to the term ‘on heat’. The first phase (proestrus) is characterized by both bleeding and swelling. Male dogs are attracted to the bitch but she will not usually stand and allow them to mate. In the second phase (oestrus), the bleeding ceases and the vulval swelling decreases significantly. During this phase the bitch will stand for mating. The third phase is usually a period when the bitch is going off heat, ie. No swelling or bleeding, not interested in the dog. The difficulty with dogs is that each stage of being on heat lasts on average about one week but can vary from 2-10 days between different bitches. This means that the calendar can not be relied upon to tell you the perfect time to mate the dog or when it is safe to reintroduce her to male dogs you do not wish her to mate with.

What should I do to be sure that a mating is accomplished successfully?

Male dogs are more successful when the environment is familiar. Therefore, it is preferable to take the female to the male’s home for breeding. The timing for mating is critical. The most fertile time is considered the 10th through the 14th days of the heat period. However, as already inferred above, some dogs will be fertile as early as the 3rd day and as late as the 18th day. The best ‘rule of thumb’ is to mate the bitch every second day from the first day she will stand for the dog until she is no longer interested.

Are there tests to determine when to mate my bitch?

There are two tests that are used for this purpose: The first is a microscopic examination of vaginal cells to detect changes in cell appearance and numbers. This has been used for many years and is reasonably reliable in some dogs. However, A more recent test determines changes in the progesterone level in the blood. This test is very sensitive and can often be carried out in-house by the veterinary practice. It gives a very good indication of when mating is most likely to be successful. It is used for dogs that have a history of unsuccessful mating or for very valuable bitches.

What should I expect during my dog’s pregnancy

Pregnancy, also called the gestation period, normally ranges from 60 to 67 days, the average being 63 days. Most dogs deliver (whelp) between days 63 and 65. The only way to accurately determine the stage of pregnancy is to count days from the time of mating. With all planned matings the date should be recorded and the bitch then examined approximately 3 weeks from the date of mating to detect the signs of pregnancy. Ultrasound scans can be carried out at around the 28th day and radiographs from around day 38.

Feeding

It is important that a bitch is in good condition before she is mated, neither too fat nor too thin. Her food intake should not be altered during the first two thirds of her pregnancy, and if a complete formula is being fed there is no need to use additional vitamin or mineral supplements. After the 6th week food intake should be gradually increased and high energy, low bulk foods may be useful in ensuring the bitch is adequately nourished. As abdominal pressure increases with the size of the foetuses, smaller meals fed more frequently may be helpful. During the last three weeks food intake will often increase by up to one and a half times the normal level and at the height of lactation, approximately three weeks after whelping, food intake is often two and a half to three times normal, particularly if she is feeding a large litter.

What should I do to prepare for whelping?

From the time of mating, many dogs show behavioral changes. Most develop an unusually sweet and loving disposition and demand more affection and attention. However, some may become uncharacteristically irritable. Some experience a few days of vomiting (“morning sickness”), followed by the development of a ravenous appetite which persists throughout the pregnancy. During the last week or so of pregnancy, the bitch often starts to look for a secure place for delivery. Pet bitches often become confused, wanting to be with their owners and at the same time wanting to prepare for the forthcoming event. It is therefore a good idea to get the bitch used to the place where you want her to have her puppies well in advance of whelping but even then some bitches insist on having their pups in close proximity to the owner. Under these circumstances it is better to let the bitch have her way and then when she has finished, gently try moving her to the place that she should have already been introduced to some days or weeks previously. However some bitches are very determined and under these circumstances less trauma is caused if, within reason, her demands are met or at least some compromise is achieved, e.g. the bitch that wants to nurse the puppies on your bed is quietly moved to a whelping box in a corner of the bedroom. Ideally you may prefer her to use the whelping box you had prepared for her in a quiet corner of the kitchen. Similarly some bitches need the owner present during the whole time of delivery and if they are left alone they are likely to endeavour to delay delivery of the puppies which can create subsequent problems – compromise is the name of the game! Prior to the time of delivery, a whelping box should be selected and placed in a secluded place, such as a closet or a dark corner. The box should be large enough for the dog to move around freely, but have low enough sides so that she can see out and you can reach inside to give assistance, if needed. The bottom of the box should be lined with several layers of newspapers. These provide disposable, absorbent bedding which the bitch can tear up and reorganise according to her own requirements. At the same time they will absorb the fluids which are always more copious than you would ever expect at the time of whelping. If sufficient thickness of newspaper is laid at the outset, the upper, soiled layers may be removed with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn puppies.

What happens during parturition?

Most dogs experience delivery without complications; however, first-time mothers should be attended by their owners until at least one or two puppies are born. If these are born quickly and without assistance, further attendance may not be necessary. However, with a bitch having puppies for the first time a careful watch should be kept upon her until she has finished, just in case any complications develop. If the owner elects to leave, care should be taken so that the dog does not try to follow and leave the whelping box.

Signs of impending whelping

These generally include nervousness and panting. The bitch will often stop eating during the last 24 hours before labour although with some breeds this does not apply. All the textbooks tell you that rectal temperature will drop below 100°F (37.8°C) but this again may only occur an hour or two before she starts producing Delivery times will vary. Dogs having slim heads, such as Shelties, Collies, and Dobermans, may complete delivery in one to two hours. Dogs having large, round heads generally require longer delivery times. English Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, and Pekingese puppies tend to have sizeable heads that make delivery more difficult. It is not unusual for these breeds to rest an hour or more between each puppy. Rarely, a dog may deliver one or two puppies, then have labour stop for as long as twenty-four hours before the remainder of the litter is born. However, if the bitch does not start to strain in two hours and you think there are further puppies veterinary advice should be sought without delay.

The normal birth position

Puppies are usually born head first; with the head and forelegs extended. This is called anterior presentation. Posterior presentation is also normal in the bitch. The puppy is born with tail and hindlegs coming first. Breech presentation in which the hindlegs are forward and the tail and rump is presented is abnormal. However it does occur and can result in a normal birth although breech presentations frequently present problems. If a puppy’s rump is presented and the bitch is straining continuously without making any progress, veterinary attention should be sought without delay. Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta (“afterbirth”). These usually pass after the puppies are born. However, any that do not pass usually disintegrate and are passed within 24-48 hours after delivery. If the bitch develops a blood stained, pussy or smelly discharge consult your veterinary surgeon. Note that it is normal for the mother to eat the placentas. If the delivery proceeds normally, a few contractions will discharge the puppy; it should exit the birth canal within ten minutes of being visible. Following delivery, the mother should lick the newborn’s face. She will then proceed to wash it and toss it about. Her tongue is used to tear the sac and expose the mouth and nose. This vigorous washing stimulates circulation, causing the puppy to cry and begin breathing; it also dries the newborn’s haircoat. The mother will sever the umbilical cord by chewing it about to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) from the body. Next, she will eat the placenta. If the puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is partially visible from the vagina, the owner should assist delivery. A piece of dampened gauze or thin face cloth can be used to break the bubble and grasp the head or feet. When a contraction occurs, firm traction should be applied in a downward (i.e. toward her rear feet) direction. If reasonable traction is applied without being able to remove the puppy, or if the mother cries intensely during this process, the puppy is wedged. Veterinary help may be needed. It is normal for the mother to remove the placental sac and clean the puppies; however, first-time mothers may be bewildered by the experience and hesitate to do so. If the sac is not removed within a few minutes after delivery, the puppy will suffocate, so you should be prepared to intervene. The puppy’s face should be wiped with a damp face cloth or gauze to remove the sac and allow breathing. Vigorous rubbing with a warm. soft towel will stimulate circulation and dry the hair. If the puppy does not start to take a breath, gentle blowing down the throat after gently opening the mouth with the fingers also helps to assist respiration. The umbilical cord should be tied using sewing thread or dental floss and cut with clean scissors. The cord should be tied snugly and cut about half an inch (1.3 cm) from the body so it is unlikely to be pulled off as the puppy moves around the whelping box. Newborn puppies may aspirate fluid into the lungs, as evidenced by a raspy noise during respiration. This fluid can be removed by the following procedure. First, the puppy should be held in the palm of your hand. The puppy’s face should be cradled between the first two fingers. The head should be held firmly with this hand, and the body should be held firmly with the other. Next, a downward swing motion with the hands should make the puppy gasp. Gravity will help the fluid and mucus to flow out of the lungs. This process may be tried several times until the lungs sound clear. The tongue is a reliable indicator of successful respiration. If the puppy is getting adequate oxygen, it will appear pink to red. A bluish coloured tongue indicates insufficient oxygen to the lungs, signalling that the swinging procedure should be repeated. It is helpful to have a smaller, clean, dry box lined with a warm towel for the newborn puppies. After the puppy is stable and the cord has been tied, it should be placed in the incubator box while the mother is completing delivery. Warmth is essential so a heating pad or hot water bottle should be placed in the box, or a heat lamp may be placed nearby. If a heating pad is used, it should be placed on the low setting and covered with a towel to prevent overheating. A hot water bottle should be covered with a towel. Remember, the newborn puppies may be unable to move away from the heat source. Likewise, caution should also be exercised when using a heat lamp. Once delivery is completed, the soiled newspapers should be removed from the whelping box. The box should be lined with soft acrylic type bedding, prior to the puppies’ return. The mother should accept the puppies readily and settle down to feed them. The mother and her litter should be examined by a veterinary surgeon within 24 hours after the delivery is completed. This visit is to check the mother for complete delivery, and to check the new-born puppies. The mother may receive an injection to contract the uterus and stimulate milk production. sometimes antibiotics may be prescribed if it is thought there is any infection present. The mother may have a bloody vaginal discharge for 3-7 days following delivery. If it continues for longer than one week, she should be examined by a veterinary surgeon for possible problems.

What happens if my dog has trouble delivering her puppies?

Although most dogs deliver without need for assistance, problems do arise which require the attention of a veterinarian. Professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur: 1. Twenty minutes of intense labour occurs without a puppy being delivered. 2. Ten minutes of intense labour occurs when a puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is visible in the birth canal. 3. The mother experiences sudden depression or marked lethargy. 4. The mother’s body temperature exceeds 39.4°C (via a rectal thermometer). 5. Fresh blood discharges from the vagina for more than 10 minutes. 6. If a green discharge is seen without any puppies having been born. Difficulty delivering (dystocia) may be managed with or without surgery. The condition of the mother, size of the litter, and size of the puppies are factors used in making that decision.

Is premature delivery a likely problem?

Occasionally, a mother will deliver a litter several days premature. The puppies may be small, thin, and have little or no hair. It is possible for them to survive, but they require an enormous amount of care, since they are subject to chilling and are frequently very weak and unable to swallow. Some may be able to nurse but are so weak that they must be held next to the teat. Puppies that do not nurse can be fed with a small syringe, bottle, or via stomach tube. The equipment and instructions for these procedures are available from your veterinary surgeon. Premature puppies must be kept warm. The mother can provide sufficient radiant heat from her body if she will stay close to them. If she refuses, heat can be provided with a heat lamp, heating pad, or hot water bottle. Excessive heat can be just as harmful as chilling, so any form of artificial heat must be controlled. The temperature in the box should be maintained at around 30°C but the box should be large enough so the puppies can move away from the heat if it becomes uncomfortable. In addition the warmth provided by the mother is moist warmth: she is licking and cleaning the puppies and they are suckling; therefore if artificial heat is supplied it is essential to ensure there is sufficient moisture present and a damped towel or wet cotton wool in the whelping box will provide this essential moisture.

Is it likely that one or more puppies will be stillborn?

It is not uncommon for one or two puppies in a litter to be stillborn. Sometimes, a stillborn puppy will disrupt labour, resulting in dystocia. At other times, the dead puppy will be born normally. Although there is always a cause for this occurrence, it is often not easily determined without a full post mortem examination of the puppy including bacteriological examination and submission of tissues to a pathologist. Your veterinary surgeon may in certain circumstances recommend this procedure and it is worthwhile discussing the cost beforehand since sometimes it can be considerable. However it may prevent future problems.

What do I do to care for the newborn puppies?

The mother will spend most of her time with the puppies during the next few days. The puppies need to be kept warm and to nurse frequently; they should be checked every few hours to make certain that they are warm and well fed. The mother should be checked to make certain that she is producing adequate milk. If the mother does not stay in the box, the puppies’ temperatures must be monitored. If the puppies are cold, supplementary heating should be provided. During the first four days of life, the environment for the puppies should be maintained at around 30°C. The temperature may gradually be decreased to 27°C by the seventh to tenth day and to about 22°C by the end of the fourth week. If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high. As puppies huddle together, their body heat provides additional warmth. Their behaviour will give a guide to whether they are comfortable. If they are warm and content they will be quiet and gaining weight. If the mother feels the puppies are in danger or if there is too much light she may become anxious. Placing a sheet or cloth over most of the top of the box to obscure much of the light may resolve the problem. An enclosed box is also a solution. Some dogs, especially first-time mothers, are more anxious than others. Such dogs may attempt to hide their young, even from the owner. If the bitch continues to move her puppies from place to place, some attempt at confinement may be worthwhile. However if she is still unsettled, veterinary advice should be sought since the puppies will certainly be endangered if they are placed in a cold or draughty location. If the bitch becomes too distressed she could kill her puppies as a means of “protecting” them from danger.

What are the signs that the puppies are not doing well and what should I do?

Puppies should feed and sleep 90% of the time during the first two weeks. Any “mewing” type noises may indicate lack of nourishment or an infection, i.e. they are not thriving. If in doubt consult your veterinary surgeon. Another good indication of thriving is weight increase. Any available postal scales will usually suffice for this purpose. Puppies may be identified with fibre tipped pen on the abdomen and careful weight records kept. When the milk supply is inadequate, supplemental feeding one to three times per day is recommended and should be performed on any litter with more than 5 or 6 puppies. There are several very good commercial formulae available. The directions on the container should be carefully followed before feeding particularly with regard to temperature. One method of testing the temperature of the feed is to drop some of the warm formula on to your forearm. It should be about the same temperature. The commercial products have directions concerning feeding amounts. If the puppies are still nursing from their mother, the amounts recommended will be excessive. Generally, 1/3 to 1/2 of the listed amount should be the daily goal. Supplemental feeding may be continued until the puppies are old enough to eat puppy food. If the mother does not produce milk or her milk becomes infected, the puppies will also cry. If this occurs, the entire litter could die within 24 to 48 hours. Total replacement feeding, using the mentioned products, or finding a foster mother is usually necessary. The owner of the stud dog, if a breeder, your local veterinary surgeon, or other breeders may be able to help with this. If replacement feeding is chosen, the amounts of listed on the product container should be fed. Puppies less than 2 weeks of age should be fed every 3-4 hours. Puppies 2-4 weeks of age do well with feedings every 6-8 hours. Weaning in these circumstances, should begin as early as possible and certainly no later than about 3 weeks of age.

What should I expect during the puppies’ first few weeks of life?

For the first month of life, puppies require very little care from the owner because their mother will feed and care for them. They are born with their eyes closed, but they will open in 7 to 14 days. If swelling or bulging is noted under the eyelids, they should be opened gently. Cotton wool dampened with warm water may be used to assist opening the lids. If the swelling is due to infection, pus will exit the open eyelids and should be treated as prescribed by a veterinary surgeon. If the eyes have not opened at 14 -16 days of age, or if there is any pus or discharge, consult your veterinary surgeon at once. Puppies should be observed for their rate of growth. They should double their birth weight in about one week. Use postal scales as described above. The accuracy of the scales is not important, since it is weight increases that you are looking for. At two weeks of age, puppies should be alert and trying to stand. At three weeks, they generally try to climb out of their box. At four weeks, all of the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. Puppies should begin eating solid food about three and a half to four and a half weeks of age. As soon as their eyes are open, one of the bitch milk replacers should be placed in a flat saucer. The puppies’ noses can be dipped into this or their noses and mouths wetted with a finger dipped into the formula. Repeat this 2 or 3 times per day until they begin to lap; this usually takes 1-3 days. Next, raw scraped meat can also be smeared around their mouths or alternatively canned puppy food can be placed in the milk until it is soggy. As the puppies lap the milk, they will also ingest the food. The amount of milk should be decreased daily until they are eating the canned food with little or no moisture added; this should occur by 4 to 6 weeks of age. As soon as they are able to eat it is worthwhile weaning them on to one of the complete puppy foods of which there are many today, both dry and canned as well as semi-moist. Most puppies, particularly those of the toy and smaller breeds prefer the canned varieties. Once the puppy is happy with a complete formula there is no need to add any vitamin or mineral supplements.

Do all puppies have worms?

Intestinal parasites (“worms”) are common in puppies. Sometimes no signs are apparent but often poor condition, chronic soft or bloody faeces, loss of appetite, a pot-bellied appearance, loss of lustre of the haircoat, and weight loss are seen. Some parasites are transmitted from the mother to her offspring and others are carried by fleas. Some are transmitted through the faeces of an infected dog. Very seldom are these parasites visible in the faeces. Their detection depends on demonstration of their eggs under a microscope. Generally puppies are wormed from about 2 weeks of age and medication is usually supplied by your veterinary surgeon at the time of the post natal examination. It is well worth consulting the veterinary surgeon regarding a deworming programme for a litter of puppies rather than purchasing branded products over the counter although these are often effective, although sometimes for types of worms that may not be present in your particular litter.

Care of breeding bitches and their puppies

Breeding from your bitch and raising her pups can be an extremely rewarding experience or it may produce frustration and failure. Breeding can become very costly, especially if the bitch has problems during her labour and needs a caesarian, or if she does not accept the pups and the little ones need to be hand raised (time off work, formula, etc.). Pet bitches are often torn between their instinctive desire to be with their pups and the routines they have acquired with their owners. This can lead to problems and should be borne in mind before breeding is contemplated.
Also raising a litter of pups is an extremely time-consuming exercise and one that should not be embarked upon without due consideration.Please before deciding to breed bear in mind that many pups end up in shelters and/or euthanised even though they are healthy and gorgeous – simply because breeders have trouble finding owners.

The following information is provided in order to increase your chances of success.

When to breed:

If you decide to let your bitch have a litter of pups, firstly make sure she is:

Healthy– Check your bitch has had a recent check over
Vaccinated – Your bitch will pass on important maternal antibodies to her pups – to pass on maximum immunity, she needs to be up to date with her vaccinations
Wormed– Worm the bitch prior to mating and then at 5 weeks and 8 weeks gestation. Make sure you use a good quality wormer that is SAFE for pregnant/lactating bitches. Ask our staff if you are unsure about which products to use.

Bitches usually come into heat about every 6 months, although very large breeds may cycle anything up to once in 15 months. The season usually lasts 21 days. The first signs of heat are swelling of the vulva and a blood red discharge, there may also be a personality change. During this period male dogs will be attracted to her. It is not uncommon for a bitch to have a silent heat.

A bitch should not be mated until her second season, and if you intend to breed with your bitch, you should start before she is 3 years old. For the bitches and pups health, she shouldn’t have more than one litter per year.

Male dogs are more successful when the environment is familiar. Therefore it is preferable to take the female to the male’s home for mating. The timing for mating is critical. The bitch will usually accept the male during the second week of the season. The most fertile time is generally considered the 10^th to 14^th days of the heat period. It is best to mate her 24 hours after the discharge turns a straw colour and 36-48 hours later. Alternatively, mate her when she first accepts him every 48 hours after, until she rejects him.

Gestation Period:

Pregnancy lasts 63 days but pups may arrive from the 58^th to 68^th day. Make sure you mark the time of mating/s on a calendar, so that you have a good idea when the pups are due. If you wish to have the pregnancy confirmed, do so between 3.5-4 weeks, at this stage your vet should be able to palpate pups, before and after this period, and it can be too hard to feel them.

Nutrition:

It is extremely important to make sure your bitch has a good quality diet. Change her diet to a high-quality puppy food once she begins her third trimester (day 40 onwards) and keep her on this diet throughout the remained of her pregnancy and during lactation. Her food intake should not be altered during the first two-thirds of her pregnancy, there is no need to use additional vitamin and mineral supplements – in fact, doing this can cause problems. After the 6^th week of pregnancy, food intake should gradually increase, and so abdominal pressure increase with the size of the foetuses, smaller meals fed more frequently will be helpful. During the last three weeks food intake will often increase by up to 1.5 times the normal level and at the height of lactation, approximately three weeks after whelping if often 2.5 to 3 times normal, particularly if she is feeding a large litter.

Preparing for whelping:

From the time of mating, many dogs show behavioural changes. Most develop an unusual sweet and loving disposition and demand more attention. However, some may become uncharacteristically irritable. Some experience a few days of vomiting (‘morning sickness’), followed by the development of a ravenous appetite which persists throughout the pregnancy.

Prepare a whelping box that is large enough for the bitch to move around in, with sides that are high enough so the pups cannot climb out, but low enough that she can get out and if necessary you can reach in to give assistance. Get the bitch accustomed to it well before the birth. 2.5cm thick of newspaper makes good bedding during whelping with the top layers being moved as they become soiled. The box must be free from draughts and placed in a quiet, low traffic area (especially if she is easily stressed). Clip any long hair away from the vulva and mammary glands.

Whelping:

The impeding signs of whelping including the following:

Lack of appetite approximately 12-24 hours before birth, a drop in body temperature of 0.5-1 Degrees Celsius, restlessness, anxiety, panting and discomfort. She may tear up her bedding and attempt to make a nest. She may vomit. A slight clear muciod vaginal discharge can occur within 24 hours of whelping. There may or may not be milk present at whelping time.

Do not fuss, but regularly check the bitch. If the bitch is having pups for the first time a careful watch should be kept on her until she has finished. Initially there are mild contractions, then become more forceful. The first pup is usually born within 2 hours of these strong contractions. Pups are usually born at intervals of 10-30 minutes, but 1-2 hours in between is not uncommon. A few strong contractions should discard the pup, they should exit the birth canal within 10 minutes of being visible. The entire litter is usually born within 12 hours.

Following delivery, the mother should like the newborns face. The pup is usually born in a sac, which the bitch breaks. If this doesn’t happen, you must tear it off to enable the pup to breathe. This is likely to happen with the first 1 or 2 pups of a maiden bitch. Vigorous washing by the mother stimulates circulation, causing the pup to cry and begin to breathe, it also dries the pups coat (sometimes this can look a little rough). If the dog does not lick her pups, the vigorous rubbing with a warm, soft towel will stimulate the circulation and dry the hair. If the pup does not start to breathe, gently blowing into the mouth can assist respiration. The mother will sever the umbilical cord by chewing it about 1 inch from the body. If the umbilical cord is not broken it should be torn about 1 inch from the body with your finger nails, or tired with sewing thread or dental floss about 1 inch from the body and then cut with clean scissors. The afterbirth is discarded if not eaten by the bitch (which is normal). Be sure to count that a placenta follows each pup born. Liquids may be offered to the bitch in between pups.

After all the pups are expelled the bitch will usually settle down to allow the pups to start suckling. Healthy pups sleep and eat and sleep. There should be no continual crying. When whelping is proceeding normally the bitch should be left undisturbed. Clean and dry the pups only if the bitch doesn’t do so. Do not handle the pups or interfere unnecessarily with the bitch.

Signs of possible trouble:

A green discharge at any stage prior to the first pup
Continuous straining for over 2 hours and no pup
Exhaustion
Longer than 4 hours between pups
If part of a pup or fluid filled bubble is seen and it does not proceed further in the next 10 minutes

Difficulty delivering (dystocia) may be managed with or without surgery. The condition of the mother, size of the litter and size of the pups are factors used in making that decision.

Post-Whelp Examination:

Have a bitch and pups checked within 24 hours of whelping. This visit is to check the mother for complete delivery and can overcome many potentially serious complications. The pups will also be checked over for problems/birth defects, etc. The pups are wrapped in a towel and taken to the clinic in a box with a hot water bottle if indicated. The mother may receive an injection to contract the uterus and stimulate milk production. The bitch will have a vaginal discharge post whelping; this is normal and should have stopped by 3 weeks, indicating that the wall of the uterus is healed.

The lactation bitch:

Record the bitch’s weight and feed her to maintain weight. She may need up to 2.5 times her normal intake 4-5 weeks after whelping.

Eclampsia/milk fever: this is a condition that can occur in the bitch with a depletion of calcium, due to lactation. Small bitches seem to be more prone to this. Symptoms include panting, weakness, spasm of the limbs and twitching /shaking. Treatment by a veterinary surgeon without delay is essential.

Supplement feeding: This may be necessary if the litter is very large or the bitch has little milk. It is always best to top up all the pups rather than feeding some formula and others off the bitch. Leave all the pups with the bitch overnight.

Worming the puppies:

Pups should be wormed for the first time at 2 weeks of age, then at 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 weeks old (fortnightly until 12 weeks of age). After this they can be wormed monthly until they are 12 months old. Using a worming syrup or tablet with pyrantel as the active ingredient – making sure that it is safe for pups at 2 weeks of age (Drontal puppy worming suspension). Don’t forget to also worm the bitch at 2 and 4 weeks post whelp.

Speying the dam:

Normally we recommend waiting until the pups are 10-12 weeks old to desex the bitch. This allows the uterus to return to normal and the mammary glands to be free of milk. We don’t like to wait any longer as the bitch may come back into heat/season.

Weaning:

Start weaning the pups after 21^st day and it should take about 2 weeks to complete. You can help with this by dribbling the puppy milk onto their nose and mouths with your fingers,repeat this 2-3 times a day until they begin to lap from a saucer. Gradually add wet puppy food (which can be smeared onto their mouth and nose) to the milk until they are eating the wet puppy food or soaked dry puppy food only, this should occur by 4-6 weeks of age. Pups should be fed a puppy food until they are 12 months old, when they can be started onto an adult food. During weaning, the amount of food given to the bitch should start to be decreased.

NOTE: puppies have very sensitive digestive systems, so to decrease the chance of them getting diarrhoea make sure the weaning process (from liquids to solids) is done slowly. Gradually increase the amount of wet food added to the milk/formula every couple of days so their tummies can adjust

Hand Rearing:

If possible the pups should get colostrum within the first 24 hours. Commercial formulas eg: Animalac & Divetalac are readily available, as well as bottles and teats – the puppy formula needs to be warmed to 38 degree celsius before use. DO NOT USE COWS MILK as most dogs are lactose intolerant!!! Pups may need to be fed every 2-3 hours at first, as they grow the time in between feeding and obviously the amount they are drinking will increase.

It is vital that the pups are kept warm; pups do not develop a shiver reflex until they are around 10-14 days old and cannot maintain their body temperature. If they are not at the right body temperature, they cannot digest food. Use a hot water bottle or something similar to keep them warm.

Pups cannot go to the toilet by themselves as the mother normally stimulates them by licking their abdomen and genital area. You must stimulate them to defecate and urinate – you can do this by using a moist cotton ball or tip (dipped in warm water) and stroke/massage the abdominal and genital areas. This should be done before and after each feed, wake them up to do this before starting to feed. Their little genitals are quite sensitive and may become sore and red, so it is important to be as gentle as possible.All pups should be weighed at the same time daily to make sure they are gaining weight for the first 3 weeks of life. Any loss of more than 10% should warrant seeking veterinary advice and more closely monitoring of the pups feeding, toileting and general activity.The easiest way to keep a record of weights, feeding, toileting, etc. is to record each pups details into a book. This way you can keep track of how much they are drinking each feed, their weight and whether or not they have defecated, etc.

Vaccinations:

Pups are provided some immunity to canine diseases from their mother (via the placenta and colostrum) – particularly if she is up to date with her vaccinations. Protection with these maternal antibodies only lasts a few weeks, after this time the pups are susceptible to disease.
Pups need vaccinations to prevent against the three deadly diseases Distemper, Canine Hepatitis and Parvovirus, as well as protecting them against Parainfluenza and Bordetella (Kennel Cough), which is a debilitating and highly contagious respiratory disease. Vaccination is essential to provide the pups protection against these diseases BEFORE they come into contact with them!

Recommended vaccination schedule:

6 week of age – Protech C3 (Distemper, Canine Hepatitis and Parvovirus)

10 weeks of age – Protech C3 & Protech Bronchi-Shield III (Distemper, Canine Hepatitis and
Parvovirus PLUS Bordetella bronchiseptica, Canine Adenovirus type 2 and
Parainfluenza)

14 weeks of age – Protech C3 (Distemper, Canine Hepatitis and Parvovirus)

Let’s take a look at some of the most common terms you’ll be using if you become a breeder:

Dog-breeding terms

Bitch – a female dog

Dam – the dog equivalent of mother

Heat – the span of time when a bitch is fertile

Litter – the puppies born from a single pregnancy

Season – dog menstruation

Sire – the dog equivalent of father

Stud – the male dog who mates with the bitch

Whelp – a newborn puppy

Whelping – a dog giving birth