Tips On Feeding Pet Birds
Feeding birds makes a world of difference to an individual life as well as the entire planet. It helps to restore the balance of nature. Feeding birds helps more birds and their offspring to survive. The most noticeable benefit of feeding birds is simply the pleasure and inner calmness that their company can bring to us.
It is beneficial to provide food and water through specially designed containers called bird feeders which are easily available in the market or one can make bird feeders at home (DIY) by using used plastic bottles and earthen pots.
To properly nourish a pet bird, balanced amounts of nutrients must be ingested, digested and absorbed into the body. The food that your pet bird eats is composed of a variety of ingredients and the ingredients are composed of nutrients. There are six major categories of nutrients: (1) water; (2) proteins; (3) carbohydrates; (4) lipids; (5) minerals; and (6) vitamins.
Because of the complex nature of these nutrients in the natural ingredients which make up your bird’s diet, they have to be digested in order to release the building blocks from which they are made. Once these building blocks are released during the digestive process they can be absorbed into the body and nourish the trillions of individual cells in the bird. Therefore, any food that is eaten is really not yet inside the animal body until it is digested and the prepared nutrients are absorbed. Remember, the digestive tract is only a hollow muscular tube which stores and prepares the nutrients for absorption. If the feedstuff is not able to be digested, then the animall does not usually benefit from these nutrients the feedstuff contains. A healthy digestive tract is essential if an animal is expected to benefit from the nutrients in feedstuffs.
THE SIX CLASSES OF NUTRIENTS
WATER
Water is the most important nutrient. Your pet bird can lose almost all of its body fat and stored carbohydrate, as well as over half of its protein, and still survive. However, a 10% loss of body water can cause serious illness. Without replacement of the water which is lost, death will result. Water provides a medium for digestion, absorption, transport, metabolism (actual utilization of the nutrients by the cells), and the removal of cellular waste products out of cells and eventually out of the bird in the urine and feces.
There are two basic sources of water, ingested and metabolic. Ingested water is that consumed by drinking and that which is contained in food. Metabolic water is the water produced when the food is utilized and can arise from carbohydrate, protein and lipid metabolism inside the cells. Some feedstuffs contain more water than other types of feedstuffs. For instance, fresh fruits and vegetables compared to dry seeds. When the amount of water consumed in food increases, the amount the animal drinks will usually decrease. Water consumption increases with increased salt intake, increased environmental temperature, increased activity and the consumption of dry feedstuffs. Attempts should be made to have clean, fresh water available to any animal at all times.
PROTEIN
Proteins are very large, complex molecules which are made up of amino acids hooked together as links of a long chain. These linkages between amino acids are referred to as peptide bonds. Proteins in the body are constantly being made and broken down. When energy is in short supply the animal has to use amino acids for energy. Amino acids have much more important jobs to do in animals than to be used for energy. Therefore, it is always necessary to have adequate carbohydrate and fat calories available for use as energy.
There are 22 different amino acids required by animals, and all animals require them at the cellular level. While about 12 of these amino acids can be made inside animal cells, the other 10 have to be consumed in the animal’s diet. Without a sufficient dietary supply of these ten “essential” amino acids, the necessary proteins cannot be made by pet birds. The term “protein quality” is used to describe the amount and proportion of the essential amino acids in relation to an animal’s requirement for each of these amino acids. Animal protein is of better quality than plant protein. This means that the plant proteins do not have an amino acid profile that resembles the amino acid make-up of the proteins in your pet bird. Therefore, it is necessary to give your pet bird a variety of feedstuffs so that the amino acid(s) that are somewhat deficient in one feedstuff can be obtained from another feedstuff that has more of that particular amino acid. Usually, plant proteins are deficient in the amino acids methionine and lysine with regards to your pet bird’s amino acid requirement. It is best to keep the protein intake of your pet bird adequate but not in excess. Too much protein is often fed to pet birds and this leads to problems in the liver and kidney.
CARBOHYDRATES AND FIBER
A carbohydrate molecule is composed of repeating units of the simple sugar called glucose. Starch is the most common useable form of carbohydrate in the diet and is considered a soluble carbohydrate by nutritionists. Many glucose molecules are linked together just as the amino acids in a protein are linked together to form a long chain. The carbohydrate, starch, is stored by the plant in seeds for the immediate utilization by the young plant after the seed germinates. However, the seeds also furnish an excellent source of carbohydrate for pet birds to use as energy.
In the plant kingdom there is also another type of carbohydrate that is made up of repeating glucose units. This is a structural carbohydrate refereed to as cellulose or “crude fiber”. Unlike starch, cellulose cannot furnish energy to pet birds and is considered insoluble. Bacteria in the digestive tract can utilize cellulose. The reason the bird is not able to utilize the cellulose is because the linkage (bonding) between the glucose molecules in the long cellulose chain is not able to be broken during digestion. Animals do not produce the enzyme called cellulase which can free the glucose for absorption. The reason some animals such as cattle and sheep (ruminants) can do well on grass is because their stomachs have the bacterial population that produces cellulase, and this structural carbohydrate can be utilized by the bacteria. The bacterial cells are then used by the cow or sheep as food. It is important to understand that even though crude fiber cannot be broken down for an immediate energy source, a proper amount of cellulose is necessary in the diet to promote normal movement of food through the bird’s digestive tract. It also helps to provide the bulk which is necessary for normal droppings. As the crude fiber in the diet increases, the amount of water consumed by the bird also will increase.
LIPIDS
This nutrient group is composed of the fats and oils which are found in plants, especially in the seeds. These stored fats and oils in the seed furnish the energy necessary for the young plant to start its life processes as germination begins. Once the young plant starts to produce leaves, then photosynthesis occurs and the plant can manufacture and store more nutrients. These fats and oils are made up of fatty acids. These fatty acids do not link together to form long chains as happens with glucose to form starch and cellulose or with amino acids to form proteins. However, because of their chemical structure the fats and oils when used by animals for energy are known to furnish 2.25 times more calories of energy per unit weight than the carbohydrates and proteins. In other words, if a pet bird eats one gram of fat it gets 2.25 times more calories from the gram of fat than from 1 gram of protein or carbohydrate when they are used for energy. Therefore, it is possible for pet birds to become obese if they are fed seeds high in oil. An example is sunflower seeds.
The lipid in the diet is not only an excellent energy source but there are essential fatty acids that are needed by birds. Without the essential fatty acids in the diet there will be a reduction in egg size and hatchability. Also, poor skin covering and feather growth will occur. Overall growth is impaired, and the liver will have a tendency to accumulate fat. Without lipid in the diet the bird cannot absorb the fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K. Even though taste plays a somewhat minor role in a pet bird’s eating habits, fats are added to animal diets to enhance palatability.
MINERALS
Minerals usually make up less than 1 percent of the body weight of an animal. The majority of the minerals in the animal belong to a group referred to as the macro-minerals such as calcium, phosphorus, sodium, potassium, chloride, magnesium and sulphur. The requirement for these minerals in the diet is usually expressed as a percent of the diet because they are the most abundant in the diet. The word “macro” is a Greek word that means big or large. Therefore, the reason why some minerals are needed in large amounts in the diet is because these same minerals are found in animals in large amounts.
The minerals such as iron, zinc, copper, manganese, iodine and selenium are not found in the diet in large amounts and are called the micro- minerals. Sometimes these minerals are called trace minerals. These minerals are just as important to the well-being of the bird as those required in larger amounts. The word “micro” also is a Greek word and means small. When the nutritionist adds these minerals to the diet, they are added in very small amounts, usually in parts per million.
The functions of the macro and micro minerals in pet birds and all other animals is the same at the cellular level. Any nutrition text, whether basic or advanced will give the functions of the minerals in the body. The signs of deficiency also are given.
VITAMINS
Vitamins are divided into two groups based on their solubility rather than their function in the animal. These groups are: fat soluble and water soluble. The fat soluble vitamins are going to be associated in plants and animals where fats and oils are located and stored. Whenever feedstuffs are processed and the lipid is removed, the fat soluble vitamins also are going to be removed. An example of this is when soybeans or corn are processed and the oil is removed. The meal remains and has a low lipid and fat soluble vitamin content.
The fat soluble vitamins are known as vitamins A, D, E, and K. Because in the bird they are stored in association with fat, it usually takes an extended period of time to develop a deficiency when the diet has a very low fat soluble vitamin content. However, deficiencies can and do exist in pet birds, especially when the owners are not providing the bird with enough variety of feedstuffs in the diet. The ability of fat soluble vitamins to be stored has its advantages, but this ability also has its disadvantages. The possibility of hypervitaminosis exists. In other words, the fat soluble vitamins can be toxic if consumed in large amounts. This can happen when oversupplementation or over-fortification occurs, especially with the fat soluble vitamins capable of being administered through the drinking water. Overfortification with vitamins A and D should be of major concern. Normally, if pet birds are provided with a variety of fresh, wholesome feedstuffs, supplementation of the vitamins is unnecessary and is an additional expense that can be avoided. The age, health, present diet and breeding status may help determine if dietary supplementation is necessary.
The water soluble vitamins are the B complex as well as Vitamin C. These vitamins such as thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pyridoxine, etc., can not be stored in the animal because they are soluble in water. They must be in the diet on a continuous basis. The B-complex vitamins are involved in the regulation of energy metabolism in the cells and participate in so many biochemical reactions that it is difficult to separate out their individual deficiency signs. These vitamins are sometimes referred to as the “sparkplugs” in the cell that help the enzymes utilize the energy provided by the fuel nutrients (i.e., carbohydrates, lipids, and protein).
Life in animals and plants arises from the millions of organized biochemical reactions occurring simultaneously each second in trillions of cells. These cellular reactions are dependent on enzymes, and most of the enzymes require assistance to carry out these reactions. These helpers are the B-complex vitamins. Therefore, where there is life there are enzymes and B-vitamins. It should be obvious then that the richest source of B-vitamins in plants and animals should be located where there are the most life processes (biochemical reactions) occurring. In other words, the highest concentrations of B-vitamins in plants and animals are usually found in the tissues doing the most living. In animals these tissues would be the liver, kidney, muscle, brain, etc. Rich sources of B-vitamins in plants are the leaves, the germ of the seed, and young sprouts. Therefore, keeping this in mind will help the beginning pet bird owner select proper food combinations.
The numerous cellular functions of both the fat and water soluble vitamins, along with the signs common in their deficiencies, are discussed in detail in basic nutrition books. As with the minerals, the functions of the vitamins at the cellular level in animals are similar. To say that one mineral or vitamin is the most important in birds is misleading. Each of the individual minerals and vitamins is important. No mineral or vitamin is more or less important than any other.
WHAT IS THE BEST DIET TO FEED MY PET BIRD?
A balanced diet, sometimes referred to as a complete diet, is the best type of diet to feed to any companion animal. A balanced pet bird diet contains a combination of the nutrients to meet the nutritional requirements of the bird. Of course, the diet being fed should furnish the nutrients required by the animal as related to age, health, breeding status, etc. For instance, a diet designed for a growing bird or one designed to maintain an older bird is not sufficient for breeding purposes because the nutritional requirements change.
The knowledge that now exists regarding the proper nutritional requirements of pet birds lags behind other animal industries. There will probably never be one perfect diet available for all the pet birds available today. The nutrient needs and eating habits of the various birds are different. Many commercial companies manufacture and sell properly formulated bird diets (pellets, crumbles, etc.). In the long run, these are the best—but may not be as much “fun” to feed or watch the pet bird eat.
IF I CAN’T FEED A BALANCED DIET TO MY PET BIRD, THEN WHAT SHOULD I DO?
The nutrients that animals need are found in natural feedstuffs. These feedstuffs can be divided into the four common food groups. These are: (1) grains; (2) fruits and vegetables; (3) protein sources; and (4) dairy products.
A wide variety of feedstuffs (seeds) are available in grains (group 1). The seeds will be used mostly by the bird as an energy source. The majority of energy will be from the starch. The seed hull is mostly complex insoluble carbohydrate and is of very little nutritional value. In fruits and vegetables (group 2), a greater concentration of vitamins is present than is found in grains. This is especially true for vitamins A, E, K, and the B-complex. Even though vitamin A is not present in plants, a plant pigment known as carotene is present and is converted into vitamin A. Usually, most green leafy vegetables and colorful vegetables contain carotene.
Protein sources (group 3) include beef, fish, chicken, pork, eggs, beans, peas, etc. Animal tissue and animal products, such as milk and eggs, contain vitamin B12. Only microorganisms can make B12 and yes, the B12 that is in your body and other animals was produced by these microorganisms. Remember, nothing that grows out of the earth or flies, swims or walks can synthesize vitamin B12. This group of feedstuffs supplies the protein and essential amino acids required by pet birds. Meat also contains other nutrients such as vitamins and trace minerals. In dairy products (group 4), protein, essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals (especially calcium) are furnished in the diet. If it is not possible for a pet bird owner to provide a complete-pelleted-balanced diet each day, then the bird should be furnished with the feedstuffs found in these four major food groups along with fresh water. The nutritional requirements will be met if the bird eats some feedstuffs from each group. Normally, this type of feeding practice results in excessive nutrient consumption (above the requirement) and wastage.
CAN I FEED MY PET BIRD ONLY SEED?
The answer is no. Do not feed pet birds only seeds. Seeds do not contain sufficient nutrients to sustain a healthy bird or provide adequate nutrients for reproduction. Seeds are very low in calcium. The requirement of calcium for growing birds is probably close to 1 percent of the diet or 10,000 parts per million in the diet. Seeds contain only 200 to 500 parts per million (0.02 to 0.05 percent) calcium. Therefore, your pet bird will be very deficient in calcium. Bird seeds are also deficient in protein, and the quality of the protein is poor. Sodium, zinc and manganese are deficient. Carotene (vitamin A) and vitamin D are deficient. A lack of vitamin D is known to make the calcium deficiency worse. Seeds are higher in phosphorus than in calcium. This imbalance of calcium to phosphorus will cause severe problems in the bird if all the bird eats is seed. Sunflower seeds are well-liked by parrots, and there are 8 parts phosphorus to every part calcium in this seed. Many seeds are rich in fat, and this can lead to obesity in the bird because they will overconsume on energy. Birds usually eat to satisfy an energy requirement; however, because the seeds are consumed and swallowed whole, the bird overconsumes before the desire to stop eating occurs. Many seeds are deficient in the essential fatty acids. All seeds are also low in iodine and goiter can develop. If seeds are going to be fed, then a variety of other feedstuffs also should be furnished. It is important to realize that pet birds can be fed all seed diets for many years before they begin to look unhealthy. Usually, by the time a pet bird really looks sick it is not long before the bird will probably die. This is true for nutritional, bacterial and viral-related diseases.
WHAT ABOUT “‘FORTIFIED” SEED MIXTURES?
When a feedstuff is fortified it means that something has been added to it to hopefully increase the nutritional value. Many manufacturers supplement seed-based diets in a variety of manners. One of the least efficient methods is coating the seed with nutrients (usually sprayed on the outside of the hull). Waste occurs and very little of this nutrient is consumed in this manner. Many vitamins and trace minerals are added to seed mixtures in this way. A pellet which contains adequate nutrient levels is sometimes added to the seed mixture. The pellet usually supplements the seed by providing the bird with what is lacking in the seed. However, the pet bird owner does not really know if the bird is being selective and eating more of the seed than the pellet.
WHAT ARE THE COMMON PROBLEMS THAT PET BIRD VETERINARIANS SEE TODAY THAT ARE CAUSED BY FEEDING?
Today, obesity is a big problem in the pet bird. The owner of the pet bird wants to shower the bird with affection and one way to show affection is to shower the bird with love and care. Many times the love is accompanied with too many “treats”. Energy intake is increased and the bird becomes obese. Fat deposits inside the body occur around the vital organs, and the reproductive tract is infiltrated with fat. This can cause problems with reproduction. Also, a fat bird is subject to liver and pancreas problems.
Another problem that is commonly seen is caused by not allowing the bird access to a variety of foods in the four basic food groups. An example is providing only seeds. This can lead to severe nutritional deficiencies. Variety is sometimes said to be the spice of life. However, the nutritionist knows very well that in animal nutrition variety is essential for life.
Too much protein consumption is another problem that occurs often in pet birds. Any excess protein above the bird’s requirement for amino acids will be converted to energy and used or stored. The nitrogen in the amino acids has to be handled in a very special way by the liver and then this nitrogen has to be excreted. The liver and kidney can be damaged from excess protein, especially if it is continually fed to the bird in large amounts.
Pet birds enjoy eating as much as any companion animal. Hopefully, having read this information, you now will enjoy feeding a variety of feedstuffs to your pet bird. By providing a variety of feedstuffs, you are allowing your bird access to the nutrients necessary for good health.
Instructions For Hand-Feeding Baby Birds
Hand-Feeding
The most important considerations in the hand feeding process are the frequency and volume of feeding. Baby birds grow at an extraordinarily rapid rate and this growth requires a great deal of food to meet the nutritional needs of the bird. However, the crop of a young bird holds a limited amount of food, so it must be filled frequently. As the bird gets older, the capacity of the crop increases, and the number of daily feedings will be reduced. The volume to be fed is base upon a combination of observation and judgement.
Procedure
Check the Fullness of the Crop
Nature designed a rather unique feature into the digestive system of birds-a widening of the oesophagus at the lower pan of the neck This widening acts as a compartment to hold a quantity of food, and is named the crop.
The crop can be easily visualized in young birds while feathering is incomplete. In older birds with a well developed covering of feathers, the fullness can be checked by gently feeling the crop with a thumb and index finger.
The crop should be examined before each feeding. Ideally, in the rapidly growing young bird, the crop should never be allowed to become completely empty. Checking the crop fullness will help determine the frequency and volume of feeding to be given. Normally the crop will empty in 4 hours. A crop that remains full or is not emptying properly indicates some type of problem.
Position Bird for Hand-Feeding.
Wild birds are best fed while in a nest box. They will open their beaks and gape, making feeding very easy. Avoid excessive handling of wild birds. Pet birds are removed from the nest box and placed on a towel. By cupping a hand gently around the baby during feeding , adequate support will be given to position him for eating.
Carefully Introduce Feeding Device into the Mouth.
The introduction of an eye dropper or syringe into the mouth is relatively easy, as the baby birds will be eager to be fed and will be gaping (opening the beak wide in order to receive the feeding). Occasionally, a bird may not gape, and gentle tapping of the beak with the feeding device will encourage the bird to open its beak. The device should be carefully passed into the left side toward the right side of the mouth.
Administration of the formula should be synchronized with swallowing. Birds swallow with an unusual rhythmic bobbing of the head up and down. While the bird is swallowing, the formula is delivered quickly. With practice, a “feet” for the procedure develops, and, done efficiently, the filling of the crop can be accomplished in a surprisingly short time.
Volume of formula to be Given
The volume of food given is of critical importance. overfilling of the crop could lead to backflow up the oesophagus, into the throat, and down the windpipe, which could cause death. Under-filling the crop might result in starvation.
As t he food material is being delivered, the crop will begin to fill and bulge in the region of the lower neck. Careful observation and experience are necessary in order to determine when the crop is adequately filled.
Frequently, the bird will stop gaping when the crop is filled; however, some birds, will continue to gape even when filled. Watch closely when filling for any evidence of food material backing up into the mouth. If this occurs, immediately stop until the mouth is cleared.
When the bird appears to have had enough feeding material, determine the state of fullness of the crop to make sure a sufficient amount of feeding was delivered.
Any excess food material on the skin, beak or feathers should he removed with warm water when the feeding is complete. It can be followed with a few drops of warm water to aid in “cleaning the mouth.” Feeding utensils should be cleaned immediately after use. Check the anus to be certain no fecal matter has accumulated. Ideally, monitor the bird’s weight daily with an accurate scale. A healthy baby gains weight daily.
Preparation of Baby Bird Formula
Follow the manufacturer’s directions when mixing the formula.
Important: “Use distilled or boiled water to eliminate bacteria growth from contaminated tap water.” The water should be approximately 105-110 degrees. Add the water to the powder gradually while stirring. After thorough mixing to eliminate lumps, the formula should be the consistency of creamy pudding. This thickness will allow it to be drawn into an eye dropper or syringe or will roll off a spoon. For older birds the mixture may be made thicker.
Do not reuse mixed formula. Discard and mix fresh at each feeding.
If really necessary, sufficient amount of formula may be prepared at one time to last 3 days if covered and refrigerated after preparation. The amount needed for each feeding can be heated and fed but not reused. Caution: You might need to add water in the heating process. Diluting formula by increasing water will reduce the concentration of the diet.
Temperature to Feed Formula
The formula should be served warm- 104-106 F- but not hot, as excess heat may damage the digestive tract. It should feel Slightly warm to the touch. It is highly recommended to use a thermometer to measure the temperature.
In order to maintain the heat of the hand-feeding formula mixture, a double-boiler type arrangement can be set up with the container of prepared formula placed in a bowl or pan of warm water during the feeding process.
Feeding Area
Psittacine birds while being fed should be placed on a surface, such as a towel, where there will be insulative properties to prevent excess heat loss and a surface where they can grip with their feet, preventing slippage and possible injury.
Frequency of Feeding
Cockatiels and Small Parrots
Baby birds can be removed from their parents from between 8 to 21 days. Waiting until 2 1/2 to 3 weeks is safer for the beginner, as the bird is hardier due to the presence of some feathering.
Hatching to 1 week.
If the bird was removed from the nest shortly after hatching, for whatever reason, feeding requires special care. There should be no attempts to feed the bird for at least 12 hours after hatching. The crop is very small and will hold only a limited amount of food. After continued use, it will expand. The first feeding at 12 hours should be one drop of water. Approximately 1/2 to 1 hour later, another drop of water may be given. Feeding too frequently during this period may overload the crop and lead to aspiration and death.
After these initial feedings, if the baby appears normal and is excreting, a few drops of very thin formula can be given. In order that the baby bird receive enough food, the hand-feedings are repeated every two hours around the clock.
One to two weeks – Birds can be fed every 2-3 hours around the dock. If the birds are kept especially warm and comfortable, the night feedings after midnight can be eliminated. However, feedings must begin again at 6:00 AM.
Two to three weeks – This is a relatively safe age to remove the baby birds from the nest for hand-feeding. It is easier to check the crop and feed them. The birds of this age can be fed every three to four hours from 6:00 A.M. to midnight.
Three to four weeks – Feed the birds every 4 hours. As feeding frequency tapers off, the formula can be slightly thickened. At 4 weeks, the birds can be put in a cage with low perches. Water in a bowl may be placed inside.
Five to six weeks – Feed the birds twice daily. A pelleted bird food and other foods may be placed in the cage to encourage the bird to eat on its own.
Seven weeks – Birds should be placed in a large cage with pellets in cups and scattered on the floor. Introduce the birds to a variety of succulent foods, but these should not make up more than 20% of the diet. Vegetables such as peas and corn are well accepted.
Weaning
Birds should not be weaned before 7 weeks, usually about 8 weeks. Before weaning the bird off hand-feeding, keep close watch to see that the bird is actually eating adequate amounts of pellets on its own and not merely nibbling at the food. Handle the crop to determine the fullness and check the breastbone for degree of muscling. A weaning bird may lose as much as 10% of it’s weight normally. Any more than that may be an indication of a problem. It is recommended that the bird be weighed regularly through this period.
When first weaning the bird, give them pellets, as these are a nutritionally complete and balanced diet for the bird. It is a good idea to keep an older bird in a cage next to the cage with the young weanling to teach them to eat through mimicry.
If the baby birds are not weaned, they will become “spoiled” and will not eat on their own, preferring to be hand fed. However, if they are weaned too early, they will not eat adequately, gradually lose weight, become weak and die. Therefore, if baby birds are begging to be fed, even after they are weaned, there may need to be a reversal back to hand-feeding as they may not be eating adequately.
FREQUENCY OF HAND-FEEDING COCKATIELS and SMALL PARROTS
| Age in Weeks | Number of Daily Feedings |
| 0 | Every 2 Hours (Around the Clock) |
| 1 | Every 2 Hours (Around the Clock*) |
| 2 | Every 3 Hours (6 a.m. to Midnight) |
| 3 | “Safest” Period To Begin Hand Feeding Every 4 Hours (6 a.m. to Midnight) |
| 4 | Every 5 Hours (6 a.m. to Midnight) |
| 5 to 7 | Two Feedings Daily |
*If bird is kept especially warm and comfortable, the 2 a.m. and 4 a.m. feedings can be eliminated.
Weaning Period – Important –
Make sure bird is eating adequately on its own before discontinuing hand-feeding. Check fullness of crop.
Housing and Heat
A small cardboard box approximately 12″ x12″xl2″ or a small fish aquarium with layers of paper towels over a one inch padding of cloth towelling on the bottom will serve as an incubator and holding area while the babies are young. A heating pad is placed under 1/2 of the box or aquarium. A towel is placed over the top. Either the heating pad setting or the amount of the top that is covered by the towel may be adjusted to provide a constant 85-90′ for non-feathered birds. The temperature is gradually reduced as they become feathered and mature. It is recommended to observe the babies carefully to determine their comfort level. A cold baby will shiver and a baby that is too hot will not sleep well and will breathe heavily through an open mouth. A bottle or tin filled with water and holes punched in the lid to allow for evaporation will help to provide humidity.
WILD BIRDS
Frequency of Feeding
The frequency and volume of feedings given to baby birds are largely determined by their age. Judging the age of wild birds is difficult if untrained, so the best way to determine feeding requirements is through the use of readily observable changes in the bird. For example, whether or not the eyes are open, and if the bird is standing up “off their hocks.”
Before the eyes are open
If the baby birds appear strong and are peeping with their mouths gaping open, then they can eat as much as they want. Ideally, baby birds of this young age should be fed every 15-20 minutes until their eyes are open. They can go up to 30 minutes without a feeding with no ill effects; however, more frequent feedings are preferred. They do not require around-the-dock feeding as in nature, they are fed only during daylight hours. In accordance with this, they are given feedings for a 12 hour period. Nonetheless, hand-feeding wild birds is quite a commitment, as it requires nearly 50 feedings per day.
When the eyes are open
As the bird becomes older, the frequency of hand-feeding can be reduced and the volume increased. Efforts can be initiated to get the bird to eat on its own. When a bird initially opens its eyes, it can be fed every half hour unless hungry or peeping.
When birds are “off their hocks”
When birds become stronger and begin to stand on their legs (“off their hocks’), then feedings can be given every 45 minutes. Time between feedings can steadily increased, and when the bird is out of the nest, feedings can be given at 2 hour intervals.
FREQUENCY OF HAND-FEEDING FOR WILD BIRDS
| Age | Number of Daily Feedings |
| Before Eyes Are Open: | Feed Bird Every 15 Minutes (12 Hour Period) |
| Eyes Are Open: | Feed Bird Every 30 Minutes (12 Hour Period) |
| Off Their Hocks | Feed Bird Every 45 Minutes (12 Hour Period) |
| Bird Out Of Nest: (Standing On Their Own) |
Feed Bird Every 2 Hours (12 Hour Period) |
*Wean at 15 Days
IMPORTANT-Bird must be eating adequately on its own.
Weaning
Wild birds should begin showing interest in their surroundings and start to eat on their own by 15 days. Provide live food (meal worms) and grass, twigs, etc. in the nest to stimulate interest in the environment. Spreading seed on the bottom of the nest will also encourage the bird to eat on its own.
During the weaning period, it is critical to keep a close watch on the bird in order that good nutrition is maintained. Many times, a bird may be pecking at seed, giving the impression that it is eating, when in actuality, it is not taking in enough for maintenance. Therefore, it is very important to observe if the bird is eating seed during this period and regularly check the crop for fullness.
If other young birds who are eating on their own are present, placing the baby bird in the same cage will hasten socialization, and the bird will learn to eat on its own through the imitation of others.
Housing For Wild Baby Birds
Following nature’s design, a nest is constructed. The sides are formed from cloth rolled to a diameter of 1 1/2 inches and then forming a circular shape like a doughnut. The nest would have a diameter of 4-8 inches, depending upon the number and size of the babies. The 1 1/2′ height makes the sides of the nest sufficiently high to keep the babies in the nest, but low enough to allow the baby bird to scoot backwards and pass his waste over the side of the nest.
Paper towels are placed in the bottom of the nest to a depth of 1/2 inch and then placed over the top of the entire nest. The towels are arranged to form a sloping surface which enables the bird to back up to the top of the nest to eliminate, and the paper towels can be easily replaced to maintain cleanliness.
Heat and Humidity
To provide heat in the nest box, a heating pad can be placed under half of the nest and dialed to a setting which will maintain temperature of 85-90 degrees for non feathered birds and gradually reduced as they become feathered. By placing heat under half the nest, the bird is able to select the area where the temperature is most comfortable. The box should be kept covered. A bottle or tin filled with water and holes punched in the lid to allow for evaporation will help to provide proper humidity.
The Basics of Handfeeding Birds
Handfeeding a baby bird can be an extremely rewarding experience for the human involved, but it’s also a big responsibility. If you’re thinking about taking the plunge into hand-feeding a baby bird, here are some important things to consider before taking the next step.
When should you Start Hand-Feeding a Bird?
Most birds are ready for hand-feeding when they are about 3 weeks old. Before this time, the mother bird usually feeds them by regurgitating formula through her mouth and into their beaks. Hand-feeding should not begin until the baby bird can hold its head up and has feathers growing in.
Also, don’t try to force a baby bird to eat if it isn’t interested in eating on its own. Suppose you want to hand-feed young parrotlet or cockatiel that wasn’t receiving supplemental feedings from mommy during this development period. In that case, you’ll have better luck waiting until it is at least 3 weeks old before trying your hand at feeding a baby bird yourself.
What should you Feed the Bird?
You should feed the bird a healthy diet. This means you should not feed the bird a diet high in fat, sugar, or salt. When feeding your bird, ensure that the food you are giving them is cooked and does not contain preservatives or additives such as salt, sugar, or artificial coloring agents. The best way to ensure this is by making your food for them.
You can also feed your birds seeds, nuts, and berries as well as fruits like apples and oranges, which are very good for them because they will help keep their digestive system working correctly, so it doesn’t become blocked up with waste materials – this could cause serious health problems if left untreated!
How to Feed the Bird?
Now that you know how to choose a bird, it’s time to learn the basics of feeding.
Hold the bird in your hand and support its body with your thumb and index finger. Use your other fingers on the opposite hand to gently pinch closed the bird’s beak so it cannot bite you or go after its food.
Ensure you hold them so they can easily reach their food without stretching or straining, which could later hurt their muscles or joints.
Feeding baby birds should be done at least thrice per day. As a bird ages, reduce these feedings according to its age so that you don’t overfeed your bird.
How Often and how Much to Feed the Bird
The amount and frequency of feeding depend on the bird’s age and the formula fed. The frequency of feeding for young birds is greater than that of older birds. Young birds should be fed thrice a day, while older birds can be fed once daily. It is important to provide your bird with fresh water every time you feed it.
Choosing the Formula
Once you’ve decided to hand-feed your bird, choosing a formula that suits its dietary requirements is essential. Here are some tips:
- Choose a formula that is high in protein and low in fat.
- Make sure the formula is appropriate for the bird you intend to feed.
- Use a tested, safe brand of formula (if available), or make your fresh mix with ingredients like seeds, nuts, berries, and fruits or specially curated bird food from trusted sources. Avoid expired or rancid formulas, as these can cause illness or even death if swallowed by your pet bird.
Never use human baby formula, as this may contain ingredients that are harmful to your pet bird. If you find that your pet bird doesn’t like the formula you’ve chosen, try mixing it with another brand or flavor. Some birds are picky eaters and may not want to eat a specific type of food.
Feed your Bird a Healthy Diet
A healthy diet is essential to a bird’s health and happiness. Birds are very different from other pets, so you’ll need to research the best types of food for your particular bird. Most importantly, you don’t feed your bird junk food!
This includes bread, chips, cookies, crackers, and other processed foods made from white flour or sugar. These food items can cause obesity in birds and diabetes and heart problems later in life if eaten regularly over time.
You also need to ensure that the amount of seeds you give your bird isn’t too much or too little; this will depend on their species and size, but generally speaking, anything over 50% seed content is too high for most birds.
If they eat mostly seed, they’re less likely to get enough calcium, which could lead to osteoporosis later on when they start getting older – so keep an eye out on how much-mineralized bone matter there is when feeding them!
Another essential point is that you shouldn’t let your bird always eat the same food. Variety is the spice of life, after all! A healthy diet for a parrot should consist of fresh fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds, as well as a few different types of sprouted grains, such as quinoa.
Bird feeding Tips
- Kitchen leftovers
The Bird Table can be used for putting out kitchen scraps or the food items can just be placed on the kitchen windowsill. Leftover includes animal fats, grated cheese, over ripe fruit and soaked dried fruit, rice, breadcrumbs, nuts. Avoid putting out raw meat and vegetable which birds find difficult to digest and which can attract pests.
Hang up feeders: Hang a variety of bird feeders at different levels and fill them up with treats such as seed mixes, peanuts and fat balls.
A Ground feeder is a good idea
Many birds such as blackbirds, robins and thrushes prefer to feed on the ground. A ground feeder provides a safe space to feed them their favorite foods including seeds and pieces of fruit.
Fresh water to drink and bathe
When it comes to water, birds get most of what they need from natural resources and rainwater. However when they find a convenient water source like a bird bath or a water feature, they will prefer this instead of travelling to a distant natural source.It is always better to have food and drinks at one place.
Get neighbors involved
Expand a bird’s local habitat by insisting that neighbors participate with additional space, perches and food available. It will surely attract more birds to the feeders.
Patience and consistency are very important
After installing a bird feeder, it may take days or even weeks for birds to discover your feeding station. If a bird feeder is installed during the summer and spring seasons when food is readily available to the birds, they may take longer to start using a feeder. During the cold months of the year, birds need to consume more food to thermo-regulate their bodies and are hungry more often. Therefore they are more likely to find your feeder sooner.
What time of day do birds eat?
Typically birds like to eat early in the morning. Bird feeders should be full at dawn so the birds will find it first thing when they are searching.
Do birds know who feed them?
They may not know how food gets inside the feeder. But they keep checking. On the other hand, birds may see you put food in the feeder, or they may have learned that after people go near the feeder, there may be a new supply of food.
Food items dangerous for birds:
- Avocado
- Caffeine
- Chocolate
- Onions and garlic
- Salty snacks
- Mushrooms
- Dried beans
Note:
- Although dairy products have found to be not technically toxic, it has been observed that birds species cannot digest lactose. As the amount of dairy in the diet increases, birds can develop diarrhea.
- The seed that attracts the widest variety of birds is sunflower.
Conclusion
The best way to encourage a wide range of behaviors in your bird is by offering it an array of foods, including pelleted diets and fresh fruits and vegetables.
As the weaning process continues, feedings may be withheld at certain times of day—often starting with feedings in the morning and early afternoon. Gradually, the morning and evening feedings can be replaced by one larger meal. Some birds pick up eating habits by watching other birds or older babies.
You must be patient while hand-feeding your bird. It may take several weeks for your bird to learn how to eat on its own. If you have questions about hand-feeding, contact a veterinarian or an aviculturist.
Compiled & Shared by- Team, LITD (Livestock Institute of Training & Development)
Image-Courtesy-Google
Reference-On Request
