A COMPLETE PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR KEEPING PET & AVIARY BIRDS IN INDIA

 

A COMPLETE PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR KEEPING PET & AVIARY BIRDS

 

DR. AMIT ,VET. SURGEON & PET CONSULTANT,PUNE/GOA

Birds may seem very different from more traditional pets such as dogs and cats, yet the same basic rules apply for their care. The essential ingredients are love, attention, good nutrition, and knowledgeable healthcare. It is true, though, that the specifics of bird owning are very different than that for other pets, and educating yourself can only help you better care for your pet bird.

Birds are extremely social by nature, and thrive on company, nurturing, and frequent interaction. Many species of birds make fun, engaging pets. If you’re considering bird ownership, the care requirements include providing good housing, nutritious food, and keeping an eye on the bird’s health. You’ll also need to provide plenty of enrichment and interaction, to keep your pet bird happy and alert.

Pet birds share many similar basic needs with poultry. This applies especially to sanitation, disease security and fundamental disease prevention. Nutrition and housing needs, however, are quite different for pet birds as well as are details of their breeding needs and characteristics.

Selecting a pet bird

Humans have been fascinated by birds for centuries, with a variety of species kept as companion animals in cultures around the world. They can make wonderful additions to households, especially if there is limited space or family members are allergic to other animals.

What are you looking for in a bird? Your choice of bird will be affected by your preferences for appearance, personality, companionship or ability to talk.

Appearance

Pet birds come in many sizes and colors — ranging from finches with a wing span of just a few inches, to macaws whose wing span can be up to four feet. Bird feather hues range from natural greys, yellows, reds, and greens to unusual color combinations resulting from selective breeding.

Personalities

Personality traits vary widely among birds. Parakeets are friendly and relatively easy to tame if obtained when young. Cockatiels are usually active and cheerful birds. Small- to medium-sized parrots such as conures and large parrots such as Amazons, African Greys, macaws, and cockatoos have unique personalities that require more time and effort by their owners to ensure their social and behavioral needs are met. Young, weaned birds are frequently easily tamed and trained.

Some people suggest that if a person is interested in a large parrot, he/she should get a smaller parrot as a “starter bird” to learn about their needs and behavior. However, a responsible bird owner should never assume that these smaller birds will require less skill, knowledge, and commitment.

Companionship

Birds can make wonderful companions.  Birds are beautiful to look at, and many species have a remarkable ability for song and speech.  They can be entertaining companions for play and other activities.  However, most species of companion birds are not domesticated; therefore, they are not adapted to continuous physical contact, such as prolonged stroking or petting or being allowed on a person’s shoulder or lap for prolonged periods. This type of contact may encourage inappropriate hormonal behaviors in birds and may lead to undesired behaviors and activities such as regurgitation, self-stimulation, aggression, and excessive egg laying. If you are looking for a lap pet, a companion bird may not be the best pet for you.

Having just one bird increases the odds that it will bond with, and be responsive to, its owner. Some individual birds appear to do best when kept singly. Other birds, such as finches, are happiest living in small groups. Parakeets make excellent pet birds as they can be kept singly, in pairs, or in small groups in a flight cage.

Life span of pet birds

When considering a bird as a pet, remember that the life spans of birds vary widely. Parakeets live an average of six years, but can live as long as 18 years. Cockatiels live 16 years on average, but many have lived for more than 30 years. Finches live an average of four to five years, but life spans of three times that have been documented. Even canaries, which live an average of eight years, have been reported to live for 20 years. Recorded life spans for larger birds (e.g., parrots, conures, macaws, cockatoos) range from 20 years to more than 100 years! Remember that whenever you choose a pet, you are making a commitment to care for that animal for its entire life.

Preparing for your bird

All species of birds need a balanced diet (a diet consisting entirely or predominantly of seeds and nuts is not balanced), clean water, suitable caging, appropriate light, proper sanitation, and regular veterinary check-ups.  If you are considering a pet bird, consult a veterinarian for guidance on selecting and caring for your pet bird.

Here are some general tips for proper housing of your pet bird:

• All new birds should be kept separate from birds already living in the household until they have been quarantined for an appropriate length of time. This includes a separate air supply and separate equipment and utensils. Consult with your veterinarian about the recommended quarantine period, which should include a veterinary exam prior to its completion.
• The cage should be set up with appropriate food and water in advance of bringing the bird home. Initially, feed your bird the same food that was fed by the seller. Any food changes should be made gradually. Speak with an avian veterinarian about ways to safely convert a bird to a healthy diet if they are on an unbalanced diet.
• Birds should be kept in cages that allow space for them to climb, walk around, and ideally fly. Because most cages restrict a bird’s ability to fly, you should provide supervised access to an adequately sized exercise area, outside of the cage, for several hours each day.
• The cage should be designed for easy removal of dishes and droppings and be free from hazards such as cleaning fumes or cooking odors, which can sicken a bird.
• Cages should be placed away from drafts and at eye level or higher so your bird will feel more secure.
• Perches should allow maximum horizontal flight, be sized appropriately for the bird’s feet, and provide good footing.

 

Caring for your bird and its environment

Although a caged bird may appear to be a low-maintenance pet, this is definitely not the case — all birds need regular care and attention. If cleanliness is a priority for you, a bird may not make a good pet. Birds will drop feathers, dust, and food from their cages, and generally cannot be housetrained. If you live in an apartment, a caged bird might make noises that could bother your neighbors. Some species of birds are noisier than others.  Most birds do not respond well to being left alone for long periods of time, and finding someone to care for your bird when you travel could pose a challenge. Finally, consider that birds with long life spans could outlive you.

Training a pet bird to talk

Prospective bird owners are often interested in birds that can learn to talk, but choosing a bird solely on that basis may not be realistic, as some birds may not respond to your efforts at training. With patience, however, some pet birds learn to speak a variety of words and phrases.

MICRO CHIPPING

• Micro chipping is now being used for the identification of a range of animals, particularly birds. It provides a permanent and unique way of identifying an animal.
• The usual identification method for birds involves placing a band around the tarsometatarsus, and is associated with a number of problems. Bands can be lost, become unreadable, and badly fitting bands can cause injury to the leg.
• A transponder can be inserted into the pectoral muscle tissue of birds, with a single-use syringe, available commercially with the transponder already loaded.
• Anaesthetic is not required for the procedure, but is often used as the large needle could cause tissue damage if the bird were to struggle during implantation.
• Once the microchip is placed it is confirmed by scanning the bird, and the hole left by the needle is repaired by tissue glue or suture.
• Most birds return to normal activity shortly after placement of the microchip, but occasionally animals have reactions to the microchip in the surrounding tissue.

Purpose

• To identify the bird
• For the purpose of registering the bird in the breeder society or pet bird keepers association
• To guarantee the age of the bird
• In pet bird shop or pet bird breeder who keep large number of birds required bird identification
• Avoid missing of birds from the aviary
• To known the bird migration, movement of bird etc.

Common methods of identifications are

• Ringing
• Wing bands
• Leg bands
• Radio transmitters
• Micro chips

RINGING

• Bird ringing is a technique used to identify the pet birds by individually numbered metal or plastic rings on the leg.
• Closed ringscan be applied to the legs of the birds to identify.
• Special sizes are available for each species.
• The exact age at which the rings should be applied varies with species.
• The ringing of birds is not only of importance to breeders who enter their birds for shows or for for breeders who breed young birds in large numbers. It is very important that the birds are fitted with a ring of right size.
• A closed ring of too small might grow into the leg later on, while a closed that is too big may. Might be a great source of irritation for the bird and might also put the bird at risk.
• New closed ringsare often shiny and the parent birds quite often try to remove these from the nest-while their young are still attached to them.
• It is therefore a good idea to paint the ring with non-toxic black paint.
• Types of ringing
  • Closed rings
  • Open rings

CLOSED RINGS

• Closed rings are put on when chicks are in the nest and, as they are marked with the current year, guarantee the age of the bird.
• The age at which ringingtakes place varies according to the species being rung.
• For example Budgerigars should be rung between five and ten days old, Canaries between six and eight days, and Zebra Finchesbetween seven and ten days.
• It is better to put the ring on early and risk having it come off and need to be put back on again, than to leave it until the foot is too big for the ring to slip over and thus risk hurting the chick.
• Before attempting to ring a chick wash your hands to ensure that all foreign smells have been removed e.g. soap, aftershave, perfume.
• It is important that your hands are kept warm when ringingchicks because they have been taken from beneath a hen in a warm nest box and the shock of being held in freezing cold hands could be fatal.
• Those who suffer from cold hands should have hot water, a hot radiator or even a hot water bottle available for warming their hands before beginning to carry out the task of ringing
• There are two methods of ringinga chick :
  • With two toes facing forward and two facing back
  • With three toes facing forward and one facing back

TWO FORWARD, TWO BACK METHOD

• Gather the two front toes together
• Place the ring over the two front toes and gently push the ring over the ball of the foot, to wards the hock.
• Carefully pull the long rear toe through to clear the ring. You may find it helpful to insert a pointed matchstick or toothpick between the toe and leg to help you ease it from the ring.
• Carefully pull the short rear toe through to clear the ring.
• The ring is now in position
• Check the following day to see if the ring is still in place.

THREE FORWARD, ONE BACK METHOD

• Gather the three long toes together.
• Place the ring over the three long toes and gently push the ring over the ball of the foot, to wards the hock.
• Carefully pull the short toe through to clear the ring. You may find it helpful to insert a pointed matchstick or toothpick between the toe and leg to help you ease it from the ring.
• The ring is now in position.
• Check the following day to see if the ring is still in place.

PROBLEMS IN RINGING

• With some species it may be necessary to try to disguise the ring on the chicks leg to prevent ejection from the nest or rejection by the parents.
• There are various methods that can be used :
  • Once the chick has been rung cover the ring with wet droppings from the parent bird
  • Cover the ring with flesh coloured sticky plaster, plastic tubing or brown parcel tape.
  • Some breeders use a little “Vaseline” on the three forward toes to help keep them together, and on the ball of the foot to assist the closed ring to slide over it.

·         RING SIZE

 

A	Double Barred (Bicheno)
B	Cordon Bleu, Fire Finch, Lavender Finch
C	Goudian Finch and other similar Small Foreign Finches, Green siging Finch, Silver bills, Star Finch, Hecks Grass Finch, Parrot Finches, Cherry Finch
D	Zebra Finch, Pictorella, Chestnut-breasted Finch, Yellow – rumped Finches
E	Bengalese Finch, Cut throats
F	Gloster, Fife, Miniature and Irish Fancy Canaries, Nuns, Diamond Firetail (Diamond Sparrow)
G	Border, Red Factor, Lizard and Roller Canaries, Red Faced Pytilia
J	Yorkshire, Norwich and Crested Canaries, Pekin Robin, Parisien Frill Canary
K	Java Sparrow, Diamond Dove, Madagascar lovebird
L	Budgerigar, Grass Parakeets including Bourkes, Turquoisines, Splendid, Elegants and Bluewings, Indian Shama, Chinese Painted Quails
M	Lovebirds (except Madagascar), stanley Rosella, Lineolated Parakeet, Kakarikis, Many colours, Yellow fronted and Redfronted New Zealand Parakeet
N	Mealies, Pileated, Redrumps, Cockatiel (Normal Grey)
P	Cockatiels (Colour Mutation), Gold-Mantled Rosellas, Port Lincolns, Barrabands, Princes-of-Wales, Barnards, Cloncurries, Pennants
R	Rock Pebblers, Crimson Wings, Plumheads, Quails (Japanese and Corturnix), Dov, Tippler/Tumbler Pigeons
S	Indian Ringnecks, Homing Pigeons
T	Roseate Cockatoo, Alexndriane Parakeet, Golden Conure
U	Citron-Crested Cockatoo, Goffin’s Cockatoo, Lesser Sulphur Crested Cckatoo
V	African Grey Parrot, Eclectus Parrot, Medium Sulphur Crested Cockatoo
W	Blue and Gold Macaw, Umbrella Cockatoo, Greater Sulphur Crested Cockatoo
X	Green-winged Macaw

SPLIT RINGS

• Split rings can be fitted to any bird at any age, and are purely used as a means of easy identification of birds especially by breeders.
• For example fanciers often ring all the young from each particular pair of birds with same colour split rings.
• This enables the breeder to see at a glance which pair produced which youngsters without having to catch up individuals to check their ring numbers.
• Breeders who have birds which are adults, and have not been close rung, may find it an advantage to ring their stock with numbered split rings, so that each individual bird can be identified in breeding records.
• A special tool to enable split rings to be fitted to birds is usually supplied with each order of split rings.
• Split rings can be purchased either in a coloured plastic form or as aluminium rings. Both forms can carry a personal identification number, stock number or year identifier.
• Aluminium split rings should be closed with the correct sizeof ringing pliers, this will ensure that the ring remains round and does not create an oval shaped ring thus hurting the bird’s leg. Many single or bi-colours are available in the plastic form.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SPLIT RINGS

• Continental style split rings: Some larger parrotsare rung using a continental style split ring made from stainless steel. This type of ring is hinged in the middle and once joined together a small bolt is secured through pre-drilled hole.
• The bolt is usually tightened using a small “allen-key” and then snaps off once the correct tension is placed on the bolt. This ensures that the ring cannot be easily removed – and in effect acts just the same as a closed ring.
• Stainless steel split rings: Some vets even use a small stainless steel ring when surgical sexing the bird(s) (Right leg – cock bird, Left leg – Hen Bird) – once again this is applied using the correct ringing
• Care should be taken at all stages to ensure that the correct sizeof ring is applied to the birds leg – different sizes are listed by the ring manufacturers and the species of bird should always be quoted when purchasing the rings.

PROBLEMS IN USING SPLIT RINGS

• Just because the ring is split – it should still be comfortable of the bird’s leg. If this is not the case, leg sores or other problems may occur some birds have even been known to lose a leg if the band is not correct for the species.
• If the split ringis too large, there is also a risk that the over size ring may be caught in shrubs or perches and may cause the bird to die through stress (Foreign birds and finches especially).
• Split ringingis only a means to quickly identify your bird – it is not a proper substitute for a closed ring.
• If you miss closed ringingyour current year birds (especially Budgerigars, Australian Finches, Zebra Finches and Bengalese), split rings are not accepted as an excuse. Current year owner bred birds must be shown with the correct size and society ring (year colour coded).

WING BANDS

• Wing bands are used in larger birds such as eagles, brightly-coloured plastic tags are attached to birds’ wing feathers.
• Each has a letter or letters, and the combination of colour and letters uniquely identifies the bird.
• These can then be read in the field, through binoculars, meaning that there is no need to re-trap the birds.
• Because the tags are attached to feathers, they drop off when the bird moults.
• A patagial tag is a permanent tag held onto the wing by a rivet punched through the patagium.

INSTRUCTION TO THE PET OWNER

An avian patient should be given following instructions for clinical examination

• The bird is likely to be more ease in its own cage and owner can be advised to bring the bird with its own cage
• The owner should be asked not to clean the cage and not to remove any material in the cage except water.
• Because direct observation of the bird’s usual environment can be very helpful in diagnosing problem.
• Samples of all feed stuffs should be brought along because the diet can inmate possible origins of clinical problems.
• Food samples included seed mixture, grit, oyster shell, mineral blocks, cuttle bones and other medicines.

POINTS TO BE CONSIDER WHILE HANDLING PET BIRD

• Catching and handling should be quick so that stress and overheating can be minimized
• Proper planning is essential before restraining.
• Necessary tools, equipment, medicine etc should be kept ready before restraining.
• Towel selection is important. It should be on non-chewable
• The pet bird’s beak may be sharp and can cause injury to the handler.
• Necessary precautions should be taken to prevent injury
• The birds bones are very fragile and the legs and wigs are liable to get injury while handling
• Putting much pressure on the chest while handling may cause distressed breathing.
• Use dark environment, darkness freeze the birds and handling is easier.

PRECAUTION TO BE TAKEN

• Examining a well trained and calf bird is a rare occasion.
• Hence it is very important to take certain precautions for the safety of the examiner as well as the birds.
• Frightened, sick birds are frequently stressed and some time it may aggravate the condition.
• It is better to cover the cage so that the bird can adjust to the sound of the examiner’s vice before examination.
• Once should slowly approach the cage talking in low, ovulated tones.
• Observations of the bird’s carriage, stance, and balance should be noted.
• The attitude of the bird (flighty, lethargic) as well as its respiratory characteristics (open or closed mouth, tail bobbin, labored or quiet breathing) should be noted before any handling.
• The condition of the droppings in the cage should be noted.
• The owner of the bird should always be informed of the stress involved in a physical examination.
• It is necessary to have the examination in a closed room, it is better to darken the room before introducing the hand into the cage for capturing the bird.
• If it is difficult to capture the bird in dark, small pen torch can be flashed to locate the bird.

USE OF HAND

• Towels are best to catch and hold birds.
• The towels protect the hand and also hide the hand.
• While using towel the bird does not see a human hand approaching.
• The towel also prevents the wing flapping.
• The problems with the gloves are imitating the shape of the human hand and do not providing the wrapping material.
• It is better to protect the grasping had when entering the bird’s domain.
• Small and medium sized psittacines are readily captured with the use of small cloth and medium sized or large psittacines are better captured with a towel or protective glove
• Small passerines such as finchesand canaries are best captured with the bare hand, while a small towel is usually used to capture large passerines.
• After capture the bird can be transferred to bare hand or to simple cloth restraint.
• Since gloves will not allow perception of the amount of pressure used for restraint.
• Water birds can be carried by the wings.
• Taping beaks closed can be done.

CATCHING A BIRD

• Catching a bird should be quicker to minimize stress.
• Smaller birds can be caught inside the cage or if ‘finger tame’ directly from the hand.
• Larger tamed birds can be easily caught outside the cage by confining to a corner of a small room.
• Untamed larger birds should be caught inside the cage.
• Sudden darkness temporarily freeze the bird and small flash light can be used to locate the bird and can be caught.
• While using this method for larger parrots, adequate care should be taken, because the handler also have limited vision and even friendly parrotsmay bite when frightened.

HOW TO CAPTURE A BIRD INSIDE THE CAGE

• Depending upon the sizeand temperament of the bird one or both the hands are placed behind a towel
• The ‘writing hand’ takes the charge of head, while the other hand holds and wraps the body
• Next the bird is grasped by the head, with the thumb and index finger protected by the towel
• The fingers should be pressing directly on the birds jawbone.
• The palm of the had is resting on the back of the neck
• The opposite hand should quickly wraps the towel around the body of the bird.
• After this bird is removed from the cage.
• The two hand techniques used for large and medium sized bird
• One hand techniques is enough for small birds
• Once the bird is out of cage the towel can be adjusted as needed and uncover the face.
• Allow the bird to chew the towel this keeps the bird occupied and it can blame the towel, not the holder, for the indignity.
• Remove all the toys and perches

HOW TO CAPTURE A BIRD OUTSIDE THE CAGE

• The technique outside the cage is very similar to catching a birdinside a cage.
• The bird should be coax into a corner.
• Room with tiles or linoleum floor is good.
• Carpet floor can catch toes and it is very difficult to clean up the messes.
• As previously discussed, quickly drape the towel over the bird and immediately reach for the head.
• Frequently the head will be missed on the first try and the entire process required repetition.
• Some birds will not roll over on their back when approached with a towel. In this case chance of getting bitten is more.
• In this case using the thick towel in both the hand and the head should be ‘pined’ against floor.
• Immediately, slide one hand around and in back of the head.
• If the head is well under control, lift the floor and rearrange the towel better.
• If there is more wing flapping, the body can be pressed against the chest of the handler while arranging the towel.

RESTRAINING

Restraining

• Small and most medium sized birds can be restrained adequately in an average person’s hand.
• Some large birds required continued use of a cloth for restraint.
• A small hand towel or bare hand should be wrapped around the bird, with the thumb and forefinger again grasping the head in the vicinity of the bird’s ears.
• The rest of the fingers wraps lightly around the body.
• The small bird’s feet can also be placed between the fourth and fifth fingers of the restraining hand for better immobilization.
• The towel contains the wings and gives the feet something to grasp.
• The bird can be held to the body of the examiner and the various parts of the birds uncovered and examined as desired.
• The towel should be loose to allow free respiration and avoid over heating.

Larger birds

• For larger birds both the hands should be used.
• One hand for the head and another for the body, hence frequently larger birds required an assistant to handle the bird.
• It is better firs the veterinarian to capture the bird and after restraining it can be given to the assistant so that the veterinarian can be freed for further examination.
• While transferring the bird to assisting first pass the head, once the head is controlled by the assistant, the body can be controlled easily or transfer to another assistant later.

Head holding

• Normally the headcan be held with thumb and index finger.
• For specific operation like beak trimming, administration of medicine three finger holding will do better.
• In this case the bird can be held with three fingers.
• In addition to thumb and index finger the middle finger also used to hold the bird.
• First the middle finger is placed in the place of index finger and index finger is slowly moved to the very top of the head.

Pinioning

Pinioning is the act of surgically removing one pinion joint, the joint of a bird‘s wing farthest from the body, to prevent flight. Pinioning is often done to waterfowl and poultry. It is not typically done to companion bird species such as parrots.

Removing the pinion joint of a bird stops the growth of the primary feathers, preventing the acceleration required for flight^[1] and is analogous to amputating a human hand at the wrist.^[2] Pinioning may be done by a veterinarian or by a trained breeder, depending on the country in which the keeper is operating. For example, it is illegal for anyone other than a veterinarian to carry out the procedure in the India. It is similar to other forms of modification of domestically raised animals, such as docking the tail of a dog.

Apart from the prevention of flight, there is commonly thought to be little long term negative effect from pinioning if performed correctly and at a young age.^[3] However, the animal welfare impact of pinioning is subject to increasing debate. For example, it is now known that the operation, which is often performed without pain relief, is just as painful in young birds as in mature birds, if not more so.^[1] Evidence also suggests that pinioning may cause a phantom limb syndrome similar to what is observed in human amputees. For these reasons this practice has been prohibited in certain regions and is subject to increasing scrutiny.

 

CAGING OF PET BIRDS

• As a basic guide, plain rectangular or square cage should be selected irrespective of the species of bird which has been selected.
• Sizeof house varies with the type of the bird.
• There are mainly two types of housing
  • cages,
  • aviary with flight space.

CAGES

Wire cages

• Cage can be made entirely of wire.
• It has the advantage of providing visibility of the occupant from all directions.
• But it has the disadvantage of denying the bird a feeling of security as there is no escape from disturbances from any direction.
• Also it is difficult to protect the bird from dangerous drafts.

Box cage

• This is an opaque box constructed with thin wood or metal with the front fitted with bars or screening.
• Such a cage provides security for the bird and is simple to construct.
• The inside should be painted with some light colour, the outside can be finished in any manner desirable, but the use of non‑toxic paint is very important.
• Sharp projections in a cage such as nail points, broken wires wood splinters etc. should be avoided.
• Cage should be fashioned with bar spacing, appropriate to the species being kept.

Wooden cage

• In the case of pigeons wooden cages with small doors kept at a height on stands or hanging baskets can be used.
• The cage should have a floor that is easy to remove and clean without danger of the bird escaping during the procedure. Ordinarily a sliding metal tray is used.
• The tray should be deep enough to contain accumulated seed husks and bird droppings without danger of their being unduly scattered inside the room as a result of birds movement

GUIDE LINE FOR SELECTING CAGE

Guide line for selecting cage for pet birds

• The cage should be big enough for the bird or birds.
• The cage should be easy to clean.
• The cage should be large enough to provide room for feeders, waterers, nest boxes, and other items.
• The cage should be affordable.
• The cage should be made of stainless steel or anodized aluminum or be chrome-plated.
• These materials will not rust and are easy to design.
• Materials that rust present two hazards to birds;
  • The rust may be ingested and damage the linings of the digestive system and
  • The rust pieces may contain lead or other poisonous materials.

·         MINIMUM CAGE SIZE FOR CAGED BIRDS

 

SPECIES	CAGED PAIR Length x Width x Height	SINGLE BIRD Length x Width x Height
Canaries	18’’ x 10’’ x 10’’	*
Cockatiels	4’ x 2’ x 3’	26” x 20” x 20”
Cockatoos	4’ x 4’x 3.5’	3’ x 2’ x 3.5’
Conures	4’ x 4’ x 4’	4’ x 3’ x 4’
Flinches	2’ x 2’ x 2’	12’’ x 12’’ x 12’’
Lovebirds	4’ x 4’ x 4’	*
Macaws	6’ x 6’ x 6’	3’ x 2’ x 3.5’
Budgerigars	24” x 14’’ x 8’’	*
Mynah birds	(**) 6’ x 3’ x 3’	6’ x 3’ x 3’
Amazon Parrots	4’ x 3’ x 4’	3’ x 2’ x 2’
African Gray	4’ x 3’ x 4’	3’ x 2’ 2’

* These birds prefer the company of other birds and should not be caged singly.
** The cage should be atleast

AVIARIES

• Some people prefer to keep birds in large aviaries to provide required space for breeding purpose needed for certain species of birds.
• Such an aviary consists of a flight space and a shelter.
• The frame for flight space can be made of wood or of metals such as angle iron or pipes. Wire netting can be fixed to this frame.
• A long narrow flight space is preferable to one more nearly cubical especially, if sizeis comparatively small.
• Eight feet or more is a good height for an aviary.
• Birds when frightened by some one entering the flight space feel more secure if they can fly above the source of disturbance.
• Also, because of’ this propensity of birds for flying up wards when disturbed, the door into the flight space should be only about 4 feet height.
• The floor of aviary can be of earth, concrete or wood. It is better to spread some litter on the floor.
• The shelter portion of the aviary should be part of an existing building or a separate shed built at one end of the flight space.
• The juncture of the shelter and flight space should be tight and sturdy, to prevent vermin from entering or birds from escaping.
• The interior of the shelter should be provided with perchesplaced as high as possible and their should be small openings through its wall into the flight space through which the birds can enter to roost or to escape inclement weather.
• It is better to roof over 4 – 5 feet of flight space immediately adjacent to the shelter thus providing protection from rain.
• An aviary should be placed so that it is protected from the prevailing winds and still received several hours of sunlight each day.

PERCHES

• An aviary/cage should contain perches.
• Perches should be placed at the same height as far as possible.
• Perches should not be placed so near the end of the cage that the bird will not rub its tail against the cage when it is turning around on the perch, other wise this will result in unsightly frayed tail.
• Perches should be placed at a height in the cage.
• Perches should not be kept one above the other to avoid a birds sitting in the upper perch defaecating on another bird sitting in a lower perch.
• Perches should have rough surfaces.
• Perches made from natural twigs or branches cut from non toxic trees are much better than the artificial ones.
• Such materials provide a much more natural perch, gives the bird, perches of variety of diameters to grip and is rough enough to provide secure hold.
• Such perches are more difficult to clean but they can easily be replaced instead.

EQUIPMENT USED

Parrots

• Equipment used for the large parrot-type birds must be constructed of very heavy materials; wood and plastics cannot be used for parrot cagesbecause they will shortly be destroyed.
• Heavily constructed metal cagesmust be used. The cage should be inspected for sharp points or edges that can cut or injure the bird’s tongue or feet.
• Secure latches or locks should be used; these birds are very curious and ingenious and may soon learn to open their cage and escape.

Macaws

• If one choses to construct a cage for macaws, the wire sizeshould be ½ -inch by 3-inch wire mesh screen in 12- to 14-gauge wire.

Mice, rat and other pet birds

• Smaller mesh wire may be used for outside cagesif mice, rats, or other birds .

Finches

• Finches(seed eating small bird, Passerine bird in the family Fringillidae) should have rectangular cages to allow for long horizontal flight.
• Flying in a circular pattern is unnatural to the finch and may cause undue stress.

General facilities

• Most new cagesare equipped with plastic perches. These are hard and may be uncomfortable for many birds.
• If birds refuse to perch, one should suspect something is wrong with the perch. Sizeis also important.
• Wood makes the best perches. Parrotswill soon destroy wood perches, and the perch will have to be replaced.
• Wood does give the parrot the opportunity to exerciseits beak, which helps keep the beak trim and the bird busy.
• The ideal perch sizefor parrots is a 1-inch square perch. Budgerigars prefer an oval-shaped perch about ½ inch in diameter.
• Finchesand canaries like round perches about ½ inch in diameter.
• To prevent caged birds from becoming bored, toys may need to be provided for them.
• The only thing that can be put in with large parrot-type birds is stainless-steel chains with bells; anything else will be destroyed.
• Mirrors, chains with bells, and ladders can be put in with smaller birds such as budgerigars, canaries and finches.

HOUSING REQUIREMENT FOR PIGEONS

• The loft building should be constructed to enable easy cleaning and permit good sanitation.
• Smooth concrete floor sloping to wards the door (1 in 10 feet) can be easily washed down after each flock.
• Loft windows and doors should also be screened and be designed to close securely to exclude birds and rodents.
• The building should face the sun. Sun light no only aids dryness but is beneficial to the birds by stimulating laying activity.
• Clean loft window or skylights permit entrance of ultraviolet rays, which activate the pro-vitamin D within the skin of the birds, thus promoting health.
• In a loft normally house 20 pairs of pigeons in a pen with on to three pair per square meter.
• Each breeding pen should contain 40 nest boxes (e per pair), one self feeder, one drinker and a perch area.
• Hoppers and water pans should be designed to exclude the feet of birds and bird droppings.
• The feeder or drinker located near the floor may be placed on a square (15 to 20 cm) high box frame covered with ½ inch wire mesh.
• Feed or water that is tossed out will then drop through the wire mesh where it cannot be reached by the birds, preventing them from eating contaminated feed or water.

 

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GROOMING

• A well nourished, healthy bird will have a magnificent coat of shiny, glossy feathers to show off.
• Birds with dull, off colored, broken or tattered feathers are prime suspect for disease.
• Preening is work a bird does on its feathers to maintain their beauty and function.
• Birds have two to three thousand feathers, and each of these much cleaned of dust and dirt, untangled, fluffed, lubricated and properly replaced in its special position every day.
• This work, A healthy bird will spend much of its waking hours caring for its coat.
• Pet owner can help encourage this very important activity by
  • Bathing
  • Molt
  • Wing trimming
  • Nail trimming
  • Beak trimming

BATHING

• Bathingis an excellent way to encourage preening.
• Every birds have its own way of bathing.
• If the bird does not appear to like bathing, chances are the preferred method has not been discovered. Bathingsuggestions,
  • Bowel filled with water
  • Installing mister or fogger, ideal for larger birds
  • Water faucet, making sure that water does not get too hot
  • Wet foliage, great for budgies and other small birds
  • Sprinkler in warmer day
  • Shower with buddy good for larger birds.
• Bird should be bathed daily for a schedule of two or three in a week is ideal.
• A soap or cleaning agent should not be used.
• Even in small amount it may destroy the protective oil coat of the birds.

MOLT

• Molting is the them given to the shedding or loss of old feathers simultaneous with the growth of new ones.
• Molting is a very stressful period in a birds life, and there are several reasons for this.
• The flying birds will be more susceptible to predators during this period.
• This lack of security carries over to pet birds as well.
• Growing new feathers requires considerable energy.
• If the bird is already on a good diet, no change is necessary.
• A marginal diet may need to be boosted.
• Feather provide insulation from the cold. When many feathers are lost birds require additional warmth around them.
• As new feathers grow in, increased preening is necessary to bring the feathers to their final stage of maturity.
• The keratin sheath protecting the young feather is removed, which allow the new adult feather to emerge.
• During molting period, the stress should be minimized, nutrition should be at higher plan, room temperatureshould be maintained ideally, and the bird should be encouraged for preening.

WING TRIMMING

Wing trimming

• Wing trim is done to prevent flight, it avoid injuries associated with flying and make training
• On the other hand, flying is a important form of exerciseand will help allow a bird to escape a house dog or cat bent on birdie mayhem.
• There are several methods described for trimming wings.
• Some birds will retain the uncanny ability to fly, regardless of trimming method used.
• The preferred technique is the trim both wins.
• By trimming the the flight feathers of both wings instead of just one, a bird can still have a safe, controlled glide to the floor.
• When only on wing is trimmed, balance is poor, directional ability is lost and dangerous crash landing can occur.
• The wing should be cut from the wing tip and inward.
• The first five to eight primary flight feathers can be cut in both the wings.
• The feathers can be trimmed along the line created by the bottom of the dorsal major wing covers.
• Wing trimming must be done on regular basis.
• Feathers grow continuously and there is no prescribed time table for trimming wing. Every bird is different.
• It is recommended that the wing be checked at least every three to four months.

Precautions to be taken

• Care should be taken to avoid cutting of blood feathers
• Wing trimming required good handling and restraining

WHEN TO CLIP

• Birds should be clipped when their feathers have grown back enough so that they can fly more than a few feet.
• This is usually after a moltand for most birds about once a year.
• If clipping is done during a molt, then some of the clipped feathers may still continue to grow out.
• New feathers may also grow in as well. If you wait until the moltis complete there should be a need for only one clipping.
• However, if your bird is flying, you may not be able to wait and can do multiple clippings.

NAIL TRIMMING

• Toenail grow continuously.
• Normal activity is often sufficient to maintain proper length.
• However, in a cage environment, toenail may grow too long and required period trimming.
• Overgrown nails can make perching difficult, as well as catch on carpeting or cause feet problems.
• The nails may also be just very sharp, but not overgrown.
• This readily felt once a birds is perched on an arm.
• Cutting the very tips off, and blunting is often necessary.

 

Do’s and Don’ts of Parrot Ownership

The Do’s

• DO concentrate on good behavior.
• DO give your birds a bath with water only or mist with a spray bottle at least 2 to 3 times a week.
• DO feed a wide variety of fresh fruits and veggies.
• DO feed and replace with fresh food daily and provide clean water at all times daily.
• DO clean and change the bottom of the cage daily. Scrape off any poop or organic material daily and wash and disinfect the cage weekly with a bird safe product.
• DO provide toys (8-10 is preferable) and rotate toys at least once a week.
• DO be sure your bird(s) has plenty of stimulating destructible and non-destructible toys to attack and chew.
• DO play directly and give your bird attention daily. Birds need at least 10 to 12 hours of sleep in a quiet dark room.
• DO give protein, in the form of cooked meat or scrambled, hard-boiled eggs at least once a week but no more than 3 times a week.
• DO remember that your bird(s) are intelligent. You need to interact with them and teach them.
• DO treat your bird like it is an intelligent 3 to 4-year-old human, you’ll get better results.
• DO be persistent and consistent with rules and boundaries.
• DO walk away, turn your back and act insulted by bad behavior. With good behavior is even more enthusiastic than usual during this training period to help develop your own habits. Your voice should be higher and a bit louder when praising and low and snarl when noting bad behavior.
• DO be patient, training takes time and there are no quick fixes for long-term results.
• DO ask questions. The only stupid question is one that is never asked.
• DO read as much, on your bird, as you possibly can.
• DO research online, with other bird owners, your vet, and behaviorists but do it with an open mind and think completely over what you are going to try to do before doing it.
• DO teach your bird to be handled by others.
• DO teach your bird the command to step up and step down.
• DO travel with your bird in a safe carrier if you must travel with your bird at all.
• DO make sure your vet is a licensed avian vet and have his or her phone number posted by the phone in case of an emergency arises.
• DO make sure that your bird sees an avian vet at least once a year for a checkup.
• DO keep the bird(s) toenails, wings trimmed and beak trim, for their own safety.
• DO give your bird playtime away from its cage every day.
• DO sanitize all new toys, cages, bowls, and perches before giving them to your bird!
• DO provide a cage that has more than ample space for the bird(s) to move around and flap its wings or buy the largest cage you can afford.
• DO remember your bird(s) are your companion for life. Take responsibility for your bird(s) seriously, they do depend on you to take care of them.
• DO keep a close watch on your bird(s) with children, strangers, and other animals and do not leave your bird unsupervised.
• DO remember that your bird(s) are as comfortable with people as people are with them.
• DO inspect toys every day for frayed rope, sharp objects, broken pieces and etc.

The Don’ts

• Don’t concentrate on bad behavior. If you cannot address bad behavior immediately then don’t address it at all.
• Don’t reward bad behavior with treats, no treats should be given at least 20 minutes after bad behavior.
• Don’t use water or physical hitting as punishment.
• Don’t place toys in the middle or in the front of the door opening.
• Don’t during the winter skip misting, humidity is very important to tropical birds and when you run your heater in your home it dries out the air. (same with air conditioner)
• Don’t take your bird outside unprotected or leave your bird outside unobserved.
• Don’t take your bird outside without its wings trimmed and inside a carrier, cage or on a flight leash. All it takes is a gust of wind, something to spook or scare the bird one time to take off. The wind current can still carry a bird, even though its wings are clipped and if a bird gets to a tree the instinct is to climb to the top of the tree.
• Don’t leave the toilet seat up if you are going to allow your bird to fly free in your home; they can’t swim and will drown.
• Don’t use sandpaper perch covers, grit, gravel or gravel paper. Grit is not necessary for parrots and can cause impaction of the digestive systems.
• Don’t use moth protectors, mite or lice spray anywhere that your bird can come in contact with them; they are TOXIC!
• Don’t smoke around your bird(s). Nicotine is deadly to birds. Not only does 2nd hand Smoke harm them, but you need to wash your hands very well because it comes through the pores of the skin of smokers’ hands and can cause the bird(s) to have a severe contact reaction or even death.
• Don’t cook with the bird on your shoulder or have the bird loose in the kitchen. This can be very dangerous.
• Do not use Febreeze products in any areas of the home that the bird will be able to touch – it is toxic to birds.
• Do not use any type of scented oils or heated scented oils in areas around the birds – this is also toxic.
• Do not have lit candles around your birds unless they are soy candles. These are the only candles that are safe around birds.
• Do not use Teflon or any kind of coatings on your pans. Teflon, etc. overheated will cause death in birds.
• Don’t buy toys with dog leash type clips or jingle bells. This is an injury waiting to happen. Toes can get caught very easily in these.
• Don’t have toys that have small rings that the bird(s) can put their heads through. They may choke and die, from trying to get their heads back out.
• Don’t use “S” hooks with birds that have strong beaks. They can open these up and do some serious harm to them, they can even cause death.
• Don’t use litter made of walnut shells or corncobs. It can cause life-threatening Impaction if ingested by birds. They also harbor fungal spores when soiled or wet. Newspaper is much safer.
• Don’t apply kwik-stop or other styptic products to avian skin. They are safe for bleeding toenails when broken or cut too short, but they destroy the skin. For broken or pulled blood feathers, either cornstarch or flour is safe. Aloe gel can be applied first to help the flour or cornstarch adhere to the wound and to help with pain and healing.
• Don’t use lead, zinc, copper, and iron. They can cause metal toxicities if ingested by birds. Some sources are house keys, (especially gold colored keys), galvanized wire, and lead-based paints, metallic paints, paint containing zinc, linoleum, vinyl mini-blinds, foil from champagne and wine bottles, lead weights, and bells with lead clappers, stained glass, some improperly glazed ceramics, costume jewelry, mirror backing, copper pennies, zinc oxide, artist paints containing cadmium, and cardboard or paper with high gloss inks. Aviary wire treated with zinc is also dangerous.
• Don’t handle or touch a bird if you or know somebody who is having chemotherapy treatments. The radiation can be transferred thru the bird’s skin and can be deadly.

First Aid and Your Pet Bird

The number one safety precaution in a bird home is to have an avian veterinarian who has seen your bird(s) for a normal wellness exam. You don’t want to be calling fellow bird club members or friends at the time of an emergency to find a qualified avian veterinarian. You will waste valuable time that may potentially save your pet from permanent damage or even death.

This list is by no means complete, but this document discusses the most common accidents/chronic disease and information you can refer to in the case of an accident.

ACUTE RESPIRATORY PROBLEMS

Signs of labored breathing (huffing and puffing) may include any or all of the following: open-mouthed breathing, frequent sneezing, wheezing, clicking sounds, tail bobbing (especially budgies and cockatiels) or a constantly outstretched neck. There may also be discharge from the nares and the area around the eyes (the sinuses) may be swollen. The bird may vomit, shiver, be anorexic, have diarrhea, lethargy, weakness, ruffled feathers or swollen abdomen.

WHAT TO DO

Any respiratory problem should be considered an emergency and the bird should be taken to the vet immediately. Until you get the bird to the vet, keep it warm and use a vaporizer near the cage so the bird can ingest ward, moist air. Do not wait overnight. An avian veterinarian will know this is an emergency and would never ask you to come the next day. If you notice acute respiratory problems at night or on the weekend and your vet isn’t open, you need to get to an emergency vet service immediately.

AIR SAC RUPTURE

Birds have a series of air sacs located internally. These are in the neck area (cervical air sacs), the chest (thoracic air sacs) and in the belly (abdominal air sacs). These areas are part of a bird’s breathing system and help the bird receive oxygen from the air in a highly efficient manner. They also help provide the lightness and buoyancy needed for flight. Occasionally, one of these air sacs may rupture (usually due to injury) and air will leak from the sac and accumulate under the bird’s skin. This condition is known as subcutaneous emphysema. This accumulation must be removed, or the air sac may tear even further.

WHAT TO DO

Clean the skin over the swelling with a disinfectant on a cotton ball. Take small scissors or a needle and make a tiny hole in the skin. This allows the air to escape. This may need to be done several times before the air is released. It has been shown that air sacs normally repair themselves within two weeks. However, if you see no improvement within a day or two, your avian veterinarian should see the bird. It is probably a good idea to have the bird seen anyway.

ANOREXIA (Loss of Appetite)

A bird’s metabolic rate is very high, requiring almost constant intake. If you notice your bird is not eating as much as it normally does, or refuses food altogether, the situation is serious. Your avian veterinarian should exam your small bird if it hasn’t eaten for 12 hours. A large bird that has not eaten for 24 hours also should be seen immediately. A longer time frame than that may prove to be fatal.

WHAT TO DO

Try feeding the bird anything – peanut butter, yogurt, baby food, whatever its favorite food is – even if it’s sunflower seeds – just get it to eat. If you have hand feeding formula available, mix some up, keeping it slightly liquid, and try to hand feed. If that doesn’t work keep the bird warm and get to the vet as soon as possible.

BLEEDING

Blood anywhere on the bird or its cage is cause for immediate investigation. Birds do not have a large volume of blood and any blood loss can be detrimental or even fatal to a bird.

WHAT TO DO

The first thing to do is find the source of the bleeding. Pour hydrogen peroxide on the area you think is bleeding. It will remove the old blood and you will be able to readily see where the bleeding is coming from. Handle your bird gently and calmly. Birds feel your stress, so the more stressed you become; the more stressed the bird will also become. Have styptic powder, cornstarch or flour available at all times. Secure the bleeding area with styptic powder, cover and use gentle pressure to hold the area for at least three minutes (no peeking). After the bleeding has stopped, observe the bird for at least an hour to make sure the bleeding does not restart. If bleeding has not stopped after one hour of treatment, a trip to the vet is mandatory. If any signs of listlessness, weakness, paralysis or respiratory distress are noted, a vet trip is mandatory. If the bleeding continues on the way to the vet, have someone else drive so the passenger can apply pressure to the bleeding area.

BLOOD FEATHERS

A blood feather is a feather in the process of growing in. It has a nerve and blood supply. Occasionally, a blood feather will break and bleed profusely. These feathers must be pulled out completely or they will continue to bleed and the bird will die from loss of blood and stress.

WHAT TO DO

Use sturdy tweezers, a hemostat or a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Grasp the feather firmly and pull it out, always applying pressure in the direction in which the feather is growing. Take care not to pull out the feather follicle. If you see blood oozing from the feather follicle after pulling out the feather, apply styptic powder or use direct pressure on the site (three minutes, no peeking). Keep the bird quiet and warm. Watch for continued bleeding, as outlined above.

BITE WOUNDS, CUTS, ABRASIONS

Bite wounds, cuts, and abrasions are usually a result of trauma, but can also be caused by self-mutilation.

WHAT TO DO

Stop the bleeding as referenced above. Dirt and/or feather debris can be removed with small tweezers. Clean the area with a disinfectant (hydrogen peroxide, nolvasan, betadine, etc.). Keep the bird warm and quiet. Watch for signs of shock or infection. If there is even the smallest doubt as to the seriousness of the injury, see your avian vet. If it is a case of self-mutilation, seeing your vet is mandatory. A biopsy may be needed and most certainly antibiotics in case of infection. There may also be a need to use anti-anxiety drugs once the reason for the mutilation is found. Note: One wound, which should always be seen immediately by your avian vet, is a cat bite. Cats transmit a bacterium called Pasteurella. Birds are very susceptible to it and can die within 24 hours of Pasteurella septicemia. Birds will need to be put on antibiotic therapy immediately after the cat bite to ensure the infection does not spread throughout the body.

BLOOD IN THE STOOL

Whether it is bright red or tar-like (black) in color and consistency, blood in the stool always indicates a serious condition. An avian vet should see the bird as soon as possible. Keep the bird warm and quiet until you can get it to your vet.

BURNS

Burns may be caused by flame, electricity, hot grease or hot water, by a base such as muriatic acid, or by a chemical, such as household chlorine bleach. There are three categories of burns:

1. Superficial – damage to the skin, swelling, redness, and blisters. Feathers may be singed, but still attached.
2. Partial thickness – much more loss of skin than in Group 1. Severe redness and swelling, dry, tan crust will follow. Feather may remain intact, the skin will slough off before healing can occur.
3. Full-thickness – entire skin destroyed. Feathers fall out. Lesions may be black or pearly white. Healing will not occur without grafting.

WHAT TO DO

Spray or flush the area with cool water. If an acid had caused the burn, apply a thin coat of baking soda paste to the area. If a base has caused the burn, the area can be treated with vinegar. Never use ointment or butter on a burned area. If the burn has been caused by hot grease, sprinkle the area liberally with flour or cornstarch before rinsing with cool water (make sure to keep away from eyes and nose). This helps to “soak up” the grease so it is easier to remove.

EGG BINDING

This is a potentially life-threatening situation. If the egg is lodged against the bones of the hen’s pelvis, her kidneys could be crushed, causing her to go into shock and die. Another consequence can be that the compression of the outlets of the ureters can lead to the hen not being able to pass urine or feces, also causing the bird’s death. Signs of egg binding include weakness, abdominal swelling, squatting and straining, paralysis or weakness in the legs, breathing difficulty, fluffed feathers, visualizing the egg at the outlet of cloaca, red mass of tissue protruding from cloaca (prolapse).

WHAT TO DO

Move the bird into a warm, steamy environment such as a bathroom with the shower turned on or place the bird in a hospital cage with the temperature set at 85 – 90 degrees and 60 percent humidity. Or use a vaporizer and heating pad to get the same results as above, making sure you do not cook the bird with the vaporizer and heating pad. Dried milk or ground cuttlebone dissolved in water, to which a few drops of Karo syrup have been added (or granulated sugar). These treatments should be continued for no longer than 12 hours for a large bird and no more than 3 to 4 hours for a small bird. If the egg has not been passed in that time, a trip to the vet is necessary. Do not try to remove the egg yourself. If the egg cracks while you are trying to remove it, the bird will probably die from septicemia. Removing the egg is a job for the vet.

FOREIGN OBJECT IN EYE

Often a small piece of seed hull or feather chaff may get lodged in a bird’s eye.

WHAT TO DO

Place a very small amount of sterile ophthalmic ointment or sterile KY Jelly on the eye. It will do an excellent job of soothing irritated tissues and “float” out the object. If the bird has not experienced relief in 2 to 3 hours, a trip to the vet is necessary.

FRACTURES

Wrap the bird loosely with soft toweling to prevent movement of wings and legs. Keep the bird warm and quiet. A trip to the vet is necessary.

HEATSTROKE

The ultimate concern in the first aid of heatstroke is to get the bird’s body temperature lowered immediately.

WHAT TO DO

1. Spray the feathers with alcohol (keeping away from bird’s face) or cold water. Alcohol will last longer on the feathers. Be sure the feathers are wet right down to the skin.
2. Place the bird in an air-conditioned room or in front of a fan.
3. Immerse the bird’s feed in cold water or place cold water, a few drops at a time, in the bird’s vent with a syringe or dropper to help lower internal temperature rapidly.
4. If the bird is conscious, allow it to drink – or give it manually – a few drops of water at a time.

There is always the danger of shock following heatstroke. Water the bird carefully – when its panting has lessened and it appears more alert and comfortable to prevent chills. Keep it quiet and get it to the vet immediately.

LEG BAND PROBLEMS

If the bird has caught its leg on the cage wire, do not attempt to disentangle it by yourself. Have someone else support the bird while you take a pair of wire cutters, cut off the wire holding the leg band, and immediately transport the bird to the vet to remove the leg band and wire. It is very easy to cut off the bird’s leg or foot with the wire cutters. If that happens, the bird will most likely die of shock and pain.

POISONING

Take the bird immediately to the vet. If you know what the bird got into, take the whole bottle, jar, etc., with you.

SHOCK

Signs of shock in birds are: Feathers fluffed, listlessness, rapid breathing, weakness, the skin of legs and feet are cool to the touch, unconsciousness.

WHAT TO DO

Shock requires immediately attention. Keep the bird warm and quiet. Handle the bird as little as possible. If you can, attempt to get it to take a high-calorie electrolyte solution (Pedialyte or Gatorade are two good ones). Avoid sudden movements while handling the bird. Notify the vet that you are on your way and go immediately

First Aid and Your Pet Bird

It is a good idea to have a first aid kit put together in case of an emergency These are some of the things we have in our bird first aid kit at C.A.R.E., Inc.

• Eye Irrigation Solution
• Tweezers
• Hemostat
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Human Toenail Clipper
• Dog Toenail Clipper
• Cotton Balls
• Q-Tips
• Styptic Powder
• Gauze Squares
• Vet Wrap (self-adhesive wrap you can get from your vet)
• Triple Antibiotic Ointment
• Towel
• Alcohol
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Bottle of Pedialyte or Gatorade

It is also a good idea to have a heating pad available and a small aquarium or something similar in case you need to keep the bird warm in a confined area, for instance, if they go into shock or contract a respiratory infection.

Healthy Shopping For Birds And Reptiles

Listed below are some nutritious foods for you to incorporate into your family member’s diet. Nutrition plays a major role in the health and longevity of any animal. Keep in mind that moderation and variety are the keys to offering a complete, well-balanced diet.

Vegetable/Fruit	Calcium	Vitamin A
Broccoli leaves	Excellent	Excellent
Mustard greens	Excellent	Excellent
Kale	Excellent	Excellent
Turnip Greens	Excellent	Excellent
Swiss chard	Excellent	Excellent
Collard Greens	Excellent	Good
Endive	Good	Good
Escarole	Good	Good
Dandelion greens	Good	Excellent
Beet greens	Good	Excellent
Parsley	Poor	Good
Carrot	Poor	Good
Yam	Poor	Good
Pumpkin	Poor	Good
Mango	Poor	Good
Papya	Poor	Good
Apricot	Poor	Good
Red Pepper	Poor	Good

Top 10 Common Foods that Can Poison Your Bird

Because birds are such social creatures, many owners allow their pets to be included at mealtime. While sharing food with your bird is a lot of fun – not to mention wonderful for your pet’s emotional health – there are many common human foods that can be harmful or even fatal to your bird. Owners need to know which foods are fine for sharing, and which pose a serious risk. Read on to find out the top ten foods that are hazardous to your bird’s health.

1. Chocolate:Chocolate is a wonderful treat to share with human family members, but it can be harmful or fatal to your pet bird. Chocolate poisoning first affects a bird’s digestive system, causing vomiting and diarrhea. As the condition progresses, the bird’s central nervous system is affected, first causing seizures and eventually death.
2. Apple Seeds:Believe it or not, apples – along with other members of the rose family including cherries, peaches, apricots, and pears – contain trace amounts of Cyanide within their seeds. While the fruit of the apple is fine for your bird, be aware that in addition to the poisonous seeds, there may be pesticides present on the fruit’s skin. Be sure to thoroughly cleanse (or buy Organic) and core any apple pieces that you share with your bird to avoid exposure to these toxins.
3. Avocado:The skin and pit of this popular fruit had been known to cause cardiac distress and eventual heart failure in pet bird species. Although there is some debate to the degree of toxicity of avocados, it is generally advised to adopt a “better safe than sorry” attitude toward them and keep guacamole and other avocado products as far away from pet birds as possible.
4. Onions:While the use of limited amounts of onion or garlic powders as flavorings is generally regarded as acceptable, excessive consumption of onions causes vomiting, diarrhea, and a host of other digestive problems. It has been found that prolonged exposure can lead to a blood condition called hemolytic anemia, which is followed by respiratory distress and eventual death.
5. Alcohol:Although responsible bird owners would never dream of offering their pet an alcoholic drink, there have been instances in which free roaming birds have attained alcohol poisoning through helping themselves to unattended cocktails. Alcohol depresses the organ systems of birds and can be fatal. Make sure that your bird stays safe by securing him in his cage whenever alcohol is served in your home.
6. Mushrooms:Mushrooms are a type of fungus, and have been known to cause digestive upset in companion birds. Caps and stems of some varieties can induce liver failure.
7. Tomato Leaves:Tomatoes, like potatoes and other nightshades, have a tasty fruit that is fine when used as a treat for your bird. The stems vines, and leaves, however, are highly toxic to your pet. Make sure that any time you offer your bird a tomato treat it has been properly cleaned and sliced, with the green parts removed, so that your bird will avoid exposure to any toxins.
8. SaltWhile all living beings need regulated amounts of sodium in their systems, too much salt can lead to a host of health problems in birds, including excessive thirst, dehydration, kidney dysfunction, and death. Be sure to keep watch over the amount of salty foods your bird consumes.
9. Caffeine:Caffeinated beverages such as soda, coffee, and tea are popular among people – but allowing your bird to indulge in these drinks can be extremely hazardous. Caffeine causes cardiac malfunction in birds, and is associated with increased heartbeat, arrhythmia, hyperactivity, and cardiac arrest. Share a healthy drink of pure fruit or vegetable juice with your bird instead – this will satisfy both your bird’s tastebuds and nutritional requirements.
10. Dried Beans:Cooked beans are a favorite treat of many birds, but raw, dry bean mixes can be extremely harmful to your pet. Uncooked beans contain a poison called hemaglutin which is very toxic to birds. To avoid exposure make sure to thoroughly cook any beans that you choose to share with your bird.
11. Fava Beans:
12. Rhubarb:stalk and leaves

Reference-On Request.