CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF INDIAN STAR TORTOISE

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How to Take Care of Your Pet Turtle

Turtles are one of the oldest kinds of reptiles on the planet. Their hard shell and slow-moving mannerisms make them unique pets. They’re hardy creatures and can be fun to care for. They may seem like low-maintenance pets, but most turtle species can live for decades, which makes them a lifelong commitment.

Indian Star Tortoise

The Indian Star Tortoise is a shy but beautiful tortoise that has become a popular pet. Endangered in the wild, the Indian star tortoise adapts well to breeding in captivity, allowing eager owners the chance to add an interesting new pet to their household.

If you are considering purchasing an Indian star tortoise, the first step is to learn how to properly care for them. In this article, we will discuss what you need to know about the daily care, diet, tank setup, and other important information on how to keep your Indian star tortoise healthy and safe.

 

Before Getting a Pet Turtle

Turtles need a lot of special care and plenty of room to grow. Turtles can live for many years, and they continue to grow during their lifetime. They need specific living standards to give them a happy and healthy life.

Small turtles are often mistreated and mishandled, leading to premature death. Turtles shipped by mail often don’t survive the trip, and those kept in small tanks in pet stores live unhappy lives.

If you’re interested in buying a turtle, you’ll need to determine what kind you want. The many species require different living environments. Rather than buying from a pet store, adopting a turtle from a local animal shelter or rescue group is the best option.

 

Health risks. Before you buy a small turtle for your family, consider that they can transmit Salmonella to humans, causing serious illness. The CDC does not recommend small turtles for children under the age of five, older people, or people with compromised immune systems.

Because of the risk of disease transmission and endangered native turtle populations, some states require permits to own a turtle. Check your state’s laws before deciding on the right turtle for you. The best turtle varieties for beginners are male painted turtles. These include U.S. mud and musk turtles and male red-eared sliders. They are relatively easy to care for and don’t require a lot of special attention.

Habitat. Before bringing your turtle home, you’ll need the right lighting, temperature, and water filtration system. They will need room to walk about their enclosure, and they’ll need their space cleaned frequently.

Turtles need a lot of space to roam. Water turtles need large aquariums with plenty of room to swim and a place to get out of the water and sit under the heat lamp. Even small turtles need an aquarium that’s no smaller than 29 gallons, or 4 feet long and 18 inches wide. Your turtle needs plenty of space to grow.

 

Lifespan. Many types of turtles can live up to 20 years or longer, and they’ll continue to grow. Their space, diet, and other needs will change as they do, so do your research to choose one you can continue to care for.

Diet. Your turtle’s diet will depend on the type of turtle you choose. Water turtles have a different diet from land turtles. Generally, turtles eat insects, fish, dark leafy greens, and freeze-dried mealworms. They need a healthy mix of 80% vegetables and 20% fruits. Turtles like squash, watermelon, and tomatoes.

How much food you give them will depend on the type of turtle you get and their size. You don’t necessarily need to feed your turtle every day, but they can be fed four to five times a week. This is not the case for young water turtles, which need feeding every day.

Caring for Your Turtle

After bringing your turtle home and getting them adjusted, consider joining a local turtle and tortoise society or club. These groups can be a helpful resource for caring for your pet turtle and giving them a long, healthy life.

When caring for your turtle, always wash your hands after handling, and don’t bathe them or wash their habitat pieces in your kitchen or bathroom. If possible, also wash their habitat outside or in a designated bin or tub. This will help prevent the spread of Salmonella to family members or other pets.

Because reptiles are common carriers of Salmonella, don’t cuddle or kiss your turtle. Make sure children wash their hands and avoid putting their hands in their mouths after playing with turtles to avoid illness. Even if your turtle appears healthy, it’s safer to assume all reptiles can spread Salmonella.

If for some reason you find that you can no longer care for your pet turtle, you can contact a turtle society for help. Don’t release your turtle into the wild. Pet turtles are not adapted to the outdoors and can become a threat to native turtle populations.

Choosing Your Breed of Pet Turtle

There are many different species of turtle, but the types that are most commonly brought home as pets (and the easiest to care for) are box turtles and red-eared slider turtles. Box turtles have dark skin with yellowish markings and tall, dome-shaped shells, which is where they get their name. Adults typically grow to about 6 inches in length. Red-eared slider turtles (also known as sliders) are the most common species of pet turtle. These are the kind that you find swimming around in tanks at your local pet store. While the baby turtles are often 4 inches in size or smaller, adults can grow up to 11 inches long, which means you might have to upgrade the size of your tank in the near future.Creating Your Turtle’s Home

Turtles can be divided into two categories based on their habitat: terrestrial and aquatic turtles. Box turtles are land-dwelling, or terrestrial, turtles. They are found in damp areas, such as the mossy parts of forests, all over the world. If you live in a temperate area (with an average temperature between 75-85 degrees), an ideal habitat for a box turtle is an outdoor pen with high walls and a top to ward off predators.

If you live in a colder or warmer climate, set up an indoor area for your box turtle.Box turtles love to dig, so make sure they have lots of dirt, potting soil, shredded newspaper or scraps of carpet to satisfy them. Box turtles also require a certain amount of moisture to survive, try to include plenty of rotting dry leaves and moist soil in your turtle’s pen, as well as a cozy shoe box or flower pot that the turtle can crawl under to hide or sleep. Never place your outdoor turtle in a glass tank. The glass will heat up like a greenhouse and end up cooking your poor pet!In their natural habitat, aquatic turtles, like the red-eared slider, live in swampy, muddy areas with thick vegetation, such as lakes and ponds. They require a habitat with plenty of clean water for swimming as well as dry land where they can rest, hide and bask in the sun. A tank that can hold at least 40 gallons should give your pet turtle an adequate amount of room to move around in.Line the bottom of your turtle’s tank with lots of small rocks so it can have fun digging around. You can also put a large rock or floating log in the middle of the water to give your turtle its own private island for sunbathing.

In the terrestrial part of the tank, create a snug shelter out of wood or rocks where your pet turtle can go when it wants to get out in the open.You can dress the tank up with plants as well, as long as they are not poisonous to your pet(it is bound to take a nibble at them). Plant species such as Amazon swords, anachris, water hyacinth and water lettuce are good choices that can double as part of your pet turtle’s healthy diet.Apart form a swimming area, aquatic turtles need an additional area for their drinking water. Be sure to use natural spring water for both your pet turtle’s swimming area and drinking water. Tap water contains chlorine and fluorine, which can throw off the water’s pH balance and harm the turtle.Both terrestrial and aquatic turtles need to bask. If you keep your turtle indoors in an area without regular access to large amounts of natural light, you will need to purchase a basking lamp (also called a sun lamp) that simulates the sun’s Ultraviolet rays. Sunlight gives turtles the adequate amounts of vitamin D and calcium they need to stay happy and healthy. You can keep the sun lamp on a timer that gives off  12 hours of light and then shuts off for 12 hours of darkness or you can regulate the lamp by hand. Just make sure that the lamp is placed high enough that it doesn’t burn your turtle.

Different species of pet turtle require different temperatures for their habitat. Land turtles can retain more body heat for a longer amount of time than aquatic turtles. You will need to find out exactly the right temperature for your species; however, a general rule is to keep the tank or pen around 80 degrees during the day and about 70 degrees at night.

Feeding Your Pet Turtle

Most turtles are omnivores, which means they eat both meat and plants. Box turtles can eat a wide variety of foods, such as slugs, worms, crickets, apples, tomatoes, cantaloupe and leafy green vegetables. Dandelion leaves are also a good choice for a pet turtle’s diet because they are high in vitamin A and calcium. A box turtle’s absolute favorite food, however, is snails – as long as they are pesticide free. Baby box turtles eat meat when they are young and adopt a more vegetarian diet as they grow older.Aquatic turtles must be fed in the water so that they can swallow their food. Sliders like (de-clawed) crayfish, snails and salamanders. They can also eat bits of meat, fruits and vegetables (never iceberg lettuce or spinach) along with their regular diet. Unlike box turtles, sliders continue to eat meat as adults. Turtle experts recommend feeding your aquatic turtle live goldfish at least once a week. Turtles love to chase their prey, so capturing their dinner will give them a nice bit of fun and exercise!

Many pet stores also carry food sticks – specially created sticks that contain all the vitamins, minerals and protein your pet turtle will need for a healthy diet. Food sticks can supplement the diet for both land- and water-based turtles. Some good brands of food sticks include Tetra Reptomin and Purina Trout Chow.Apart from occasional snacks, young turtles should be fed twice a day. Adult turtles can be fed every other day (they prefer to take their meals in the early morning). Keep in mind that one of a turtle’s most adorable characteristics is that it loves to beg for food! If it sees you coming, it will swim up to the glass near the surface of the water and open and close its mouth in a chewing motion.

General Upkeep of Your Pet Turtle

Because turtles are exotic pets, you may be hard-pressed to find a pet store that carries your species’ specific type of food. Feeder fish can be expensive and they can make a mess of the tank; turtles are generally sloppy eaters, and you may find yourself having to pick decomposing fish particles out from under tiny rocks.A turtle’s habitat also requires lots of attention. Your turtle will defecate in its swimming and/or drinking water, so changing its water regularly is a must. In addition, you must be sure to regularly filter the water in your aquatic turtle’s tank or clean out and remove any moldy plant debris from your terrestrial turtle’s pen.

In the 1970s, a salmonella scare among families with young children who kept pet turtles caused the United States to ban the commercial sale of any turtle less than four inches long. The problem was, small children were putting their tiny turtle pets in their mouths, thus contracting the dangerous bacteria. There is no way to know which turtles carry salmonella and which do not, so it is very important to wash your hands with antibacterial soap after handling your pet.For more information on care for your pet turtles, check out helpful websites like PetTurtle.com and AllTurtles.com.It’s true that turtles don’t require the same everyday maintenance of walking, grooming and petting as cats and dogs, but they still need a good amount of attention. Many pet turtles end up dying because their owners neglect them or don’t understand how much care turtles really need. Turtles naturally have a very long lifespan, which means you could be investing in a pet that will stay with your family for several generations. Make sure that you and your children understand the responsibilities required for keeping turtles as pets before you take a trip to the pet store.

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Turtle Terminology and Types of Turtles

Let’s start with a quick explanation on the difference between a turtle and a tortoise. Turtles spend most of the time in the water, while tortoises live on the land. Terrapins are also turtles, but generally split their time evenly between land and fresh water.

Though there are approximately 270 types of turtles, the following types are considered ideal for beginning turtle pet parents:

  • Red-eared sliders: a water turtle (though it does require land) that can grow to be as long as 11 inches, the red-eared slider is the most popular type of turtle to have as a pet throughout the world.
  • Painted turtle: a colorful omnivore that can grow as long as seven inches. These are the most widespread native turtles throughout the United States.
  • Central American wood turtle: also known as the ornate wood turtle. These turtles are mostly herbivore, but if you feel like offering the occasional insect or worm, they’ll gladly take it. They grow to be as long as nine inches.
  • African aquatic sideneck: this omnivore has an unusual “folding neck” and can grow as long as eight inches. They’re mostly aquatic, but they need a spot where they can bask in the light.
  • Caspian pond turtle: a semi-aquatic omnivore turtle that requires both land and water, it can grow up to be nine inches.
  • Greek tortoise: a land-dwelling animal that will need a shallow water dish where it can soak and drink. They’re strictly herbivores and can grow up to 12 inches.
  • Russian tortoise: another land-dweller with a need for a shallow water dish. They can grow up to eight inches.

Caring for Your Turtle

Providing good, consistent care for your turtle or tortoise will keep it healthy and happy. Generally, health problems in these animals arise when owners don’t feed them properly, or if they don’t clean the terrarium regularly or maintain clean water, or if they aren’t offering their pet the right temperature.

“Vitamin A and calcium deficiencies are very common in captive reptiles. In addition, turtles may also get respiratory disease, shell infections, shell fractures, parasites, and abscesses. All of these conditions require veterinary care.

The most common disease turtles carry is salmonella, which is significant as it can be transmitted to humans and cause serious disease, especially in the immunocompromised. Keeping a clean terrarium, enforcing good hygiene with pet owners and buying an inexpensive conditioner to add to the water – Reptoguard makes some – helps keep organisms like salmonella at bay and hopefully prevent turtle diseases from ever happening.

If you purchase your turtle as a baby, expect to offer it plenty of TLC and keep the following tips in mind:

  • Make sure your terrarium’s water and air temperature is about 86 degrees Fahrenheit and that your baby turtle has access to both land and water.
  • Make sure the water isn’t too deep. Your baby turtle is learning to swim, after all. A good rule of thumb is that the water should be about an inch deeper than the width of its shell.
  • Even the smallest turtles should have a terrarium or aquarium no smaller than 29 gallons, no shorter than 4 feet long, 18 inches wide and 18 inches tall.
  • If you don’t have a turtle tank filter, change your baby turtle’s water daily. If you do, change it two to three days.
  • Feed your baby turtle every day up to two times per day.
  • Finally, be sure to look for any physically signs of illness, including swollen eyes, discoloring on the shell and avoiding food. If you notice any of these, call your veterinarian specializing in reptile care.

Many pet turtles can easily live about 20 years, which can be another reason not to rush into the buying process.

 

Feeding your turtle

Turtles are generally omnivores, eating a mixed diet that includes:

  • Commercial turtle food: Turtles like turtle pellets and frozen or freeze-dried fish food. Offer a small amount of food at a time to avoid overfeeding or dirtying the water too much and stop when your turtle stops showing interest in your offerings.
  • Protein: Feed turtles crickets or mealworms or feeder fish on occasion for variety. Turtles love the excitement from a good hunt.
  • Vegetables: Three or four times a week, serve 1 to 2 teaspoons of dark, leafy greens such as kale, collards or mustard greens. Remove any greens they don’t eat within four hours.

Start turtles on about a quarter-cup of fresh food daily and adjust the portion according to how quickly (relatively speaking for a turtle) they eat it.

 

Feeding your tortoise

Tortoises like a variety of plant-based foods.

Produce: Depending on the species of your tortoise, about 80% of your pet tortoise’s daily diet should be fresh vegetables like kale, dandelions, mustard and collard greens. For fun, toss in a little green or yellow bell pepper, sweet potato, squash or cauliflower. These should all be offered fresh daily.

Fruit: Berries, melon, kiwi, oranges and other fruits should make up 5-10% of a tortoise’s diet. Offer your tortoise fruit every third or fourth feeding.

Other: Tortoises also like Timothy and alfalfa hay and commercial tortoise food, which can be offered at all times.

Vitamins & supplements

Calcium and vitamin A are important for both turtles and tortoises. Dust with a calcium powder 2-3x a week and dust with a reptile multivitamin 2x a month, or as instructed by your pet’s veterinarian.

 

Tortoises are long-lived, hearty, and reasonably easy to care for. They are not an ideal pet to keep indoors, and not a pet that is played with, cuddled, or handled very often. Tortoises thrive best where they get sunshine and fresh air. Some tortoises are shy and reclusive, while others are charismatic, inquisitive, and have personality. All tortoises are quiet, attractive and exhibit interesting behavior. The key to keeping your tortoise healthy is to follow these simple rules.

Biological Facts

  • There are numerous species of tortoise kept as pets. The tortoises most commonly seen in the pet trade are generally those that are the easiest to breed and care for. These include:
    • Red-footed Tortoise (Geochelone carbonaria)
    • Yellow-footed Tortoise (Geochelone denticulata)
    • Sulcata Tortoise (Geochelone sulcata)
    • Leopard Tortoise (Geochelone pardalis)
    • Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca)
    • Russian Tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii)
  • Each species of tortoise has its own special requirements. What follows are very general guidelines. Readers are strongly encouraged to seek more detailed information on the particular type of tortoise they own.
  • The gender of a mature tortoise can usually be determined by external characteristics. Male tortoises generally have a concavity on the plastron (lower shell). The male’s tail is longer than the female’s, and his vent is located down towards the tip of his tail.
  • Long lived: 50 to 100+ years
  • Lay 3-30 eggs (varies by species) which incubate 90-150 days before hatching

Diet

  • Red-footed and Yellow-footed tortoises are omnivores requiring a varied diet of fruits, vegetables, and quality tortoise chow (Marzuri tortoise chow). Animal protein may be fed in small amounts.
  • Sulcata and Leopard tortoises are fed a high-fiber diet of grass hay, leafy greens, vegetables, and tortoise chow. Fruits are fed sparingly or not at all, and no animal protein is provided.
  • Greek and Russian tortoises should be fed a high-fiber, low-protein diet of leafy greens, grass hay and vegetables. Fruits are fed sparingly or not at all. Tortoise chow may be added to the diet of the Russian tortoise, but should limited in the diet of the Greek tortoise or not offered at all.
  • All tortoises seem to enjoy brightly colored fruits and vegetables and diversity in their diet.
  • Dark, leafy greens are best: kale, collards, dandelion, mustard greens, and romaine
  • Some experts recommend dusting the diet with a veterinary powdered calcium supplement several times a week. The Greek tortoise may require a higher calcium intake than other tortoises, and free-choice cuttlebone is recommended by some.
  • Provide fresh food and water daily. Adult tortoises may be fed every other day.
  • May be territorial and fend off other turtles from their food.

Housing

  • Enclosures should mimic the natural environment of your tortoise. Adjust the type of enclosure to fit the type tortoise you have. Sulcata, Leopard, Greek, and Russian tortoises generally require a warm, dry habitat, whereas, Red-footed and Yellow-footed tortoises prefer a tropical, humid environment.
  • Overly moist environments will promote fungal growth and affect tortoise health.
  • Provide all tortoises with access to shallow water for soaking and drinking.
  • Timothy hay pellets (rabbit food) make suitable bedding for most species.
  • Optimal temperature range for the enclosure is 70-90°F (21-32°C).
  • Require basking area and shade to allow regulation of body temperature.
  • Provide a shelter or hide-box at the cool end of the enclosure.
  • Supervise any other pets when around your turtle.
  • Russian and Greek tortoises may hibernate in the winter. Only healthy tortoises should be hibernated. Information on hibernation should be sought in other literature.
  • Leopard, Sulcata, Red-footed and Yellow-footed tortoises do not hibernate
  • Indoor tortoises need at least 5% UVA/UVB lighting. Light bulbs should be changed every 6-9 months, as UV output will decrease long before the light bulb burns out.
  • Male tortoises may be aggressive and territorial towards other males.

Preventative Care

  • Routine physical examination every 6 to 12 months.
  • Consult a veterinarian with experience treating exotic pets if you have any questions or concerns about your box turtle’s health.
  • Annual fecal examination for parasites.
  • Blood tests as recommended by your veterinarian.

Common Medical Conditions

  • Upper respiratory tract disease
  • Swollen eyelids
  • Pneumonia
  • Parasites
  • Metabolic Bone disease
  • Retained eggs
  • Burns (heat lamps)
  • Trauma (vehicle, predator)

 

How to Take Care of Your Pet Turtle

Thinking of a turtle as a pet is in itself an exotic concept. Turtles are definitely not your regular cuddly pets. But once you get to know them, they are as loving as our furballs. It may seem like being a pet parent to a turtle is a trivial task but it takes a lot of responsibility. This is especially true for an exotic pet when you have limited sources of knowledge. Therefore, we decided to share a few tips to make your job hassle-free and keep your turtle healthy and safe.

How to choose a pet turtle

Make sure the turtle you are buying belongs to the legal species in India. Being an exotic animal, many turtle species are banned by the Indian government because of their illegal trading. According to the laws, the turtles which are native to India are banned as pets. Turtles like Red Ear Slider Turtle, Reeve’s Turtle, Wood Turtle, African Sideneck Turtle are the few species that are most commonly reared as a pet in India.

Managing your turtle

Depending on the species of your turtle, their management and living habitat varies. For example, the Red-Eared Slider belongs to the semi-aquatic family, they need a proper aquarium to live in, similar to their natural habitat. They have a habit to live in freshwater with thick vegetation. Creating a similar environment at home is difficult but that doesn’t mean you should put the exotic animal in a plastic box. Getting an aquarium which houses a minimum of  20-gallon waterspace is suitable for the species with water filtration facilities as they make the water very dirty. Similarly, depending upon the nature of the species, their setup varies. They also need a good amount of vitamin D and a major source of vitamin D is the sun. Along with a good aquarium environment, sunbathing is necessary for their shell development.

Your turtle’s diet

Most of the turtle species are omnivorous. They can have both plant and meat-based diets. Being away from their natural habitat, it is necessary to provide them all the nutrition for their healthy growth and development. A blend of commercially available turtle food with home-based food is what we suggest. Apples, bananas, kiwi, carrots, cauliflower, cantaloupe, leafy greens, and veggies are great sources of vitamins, minerals, and calcium for them. Boiled egg and meat chunks (cooked not raw) are a good source of protein for them.

Remember not to overfeed them. A young turtle should be fed twice a day whereas a full-grown adult turtle should be fed alternatively. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and pyramiding issues in Turtles. Pyramiding is an overgrown shell of a turtle that looks like a pyramid in shape and the effect is irreversible. Hence, monitoring the diet of your exotic little buddy is of utmost concern.

Diseases in Turtle

The most familiar thing you can observe in any pet when he is suffering from pain is inappetence. This lack of appetite is then followed by nasal discharge and respiratory infection. This infection is mostly related to dietary deficiency of vitamin A. When your exotic little fellow is suffering from deficiency of vitamin  A, you will also observe swelling of the eye and eyelids with pus-like discharge, ear abscess, and lethargy. In such cases, veggies rich in vitamin A should be fed along with an additional supplement of vitamins and minerals.

READ MORE :  Care & Management of Red Eared Slider Turtles

Respiratory infection in turtles is generally bacterial, with the symptoms of all the above-mentioned conditions. In such cases, open-mouth breathing and a wheezing sound are observed. Antibiotic medicine is recommended here with a proper dose rate. The underlying cause for respiratory infection is mostly a deficiency of vitamin  A. Hence, supportive medicine is also needed for easy and quick recovery.

Aural Abscesses or in general terms ear abscess is the swelling of the middle ear (tympanic cavity) due to viral or bacterial infection. This is because of unhygienic living, abnormal/unsuitable temperature, or even due to lack of vitamin A and D. Vet will surgically remove the pus from the ear and he will keep your pet on supportive treatment of antibiotics.

Things to be taken care of:

  • Always check with your vet before giving any medicines
  • Do not feed raw egg or raw meat, it increases the chances of viral or parasitic infection
  • Protein sources should be given after 2-3 days of interval
  • Overfeeding can be dangerous
  • Keep your pet’s home clean and change/filter the water according to their needs
  • Always provide fresh food and remove the rotten/stale food from the tank
  • Avoid packed or fast food like chips, bread etc
  • Deworm your pet regularly with the help of your veterinarian

Common Diseases of Pet Turtles

 

What are some of the common diseases of pet turtles?

Common conditions of pet turtles include Vitamin A deficiency, respiratory diseases, abscesses, shell infections and fractures, and parasites.

What are the signs of these diseases?

Vitamin A deficiency occurs as a result of feeding turtles an inappropriate diet.  The all-meat diet, or the “cricket and fruit cocktail” diet, or the “lettuce and carrots” diets are all deficient.  Lack of Vitamin A produces signs seen with changes in the epidermis (outer layer of skin and mucus membranes), including lack of appetite, lethargy, swelling of the eyes and eyelids (often with a pus-type discharge), swelling of the ear (actually an ear abscess), and respiratory infections.

Most respiratory infections are caused by bacteria, and in turtles are often secondary to Vitamin A deficiency.  Turtles with respiratory infections may have excess mucus in their oral cavities, nasal discharges, lethargy and loss of appetite, and possibly open-mouth breathing and wheezing.

Abscesses, commonly seen in pet turtles, appear as hard tumor-like swellings anywhere on the pet’s body.  Abscesses often are located on the opening of the ear in turtles. Abscesses in turtles are often related to Vitamin A deficiency.

Shell problems are often encountered in turtles.  These can be infections caused by bacteria, fungi, or viruses, or more commonly are the result of fractures of the shells.  Fractured shells can result from trauma from vehicles (being run over by a motor vehicle) or from dog bites (turtle housing should be constructed to prevent access from predators such as dogs.)

Parasites, such as roundworms, are common in pet turtles.  They often cause no clinical signs and are detected on an annual fecal examination.  They may, however, cause diarrhea or weight loss.

How can I tell if my turtle is sick?

Signs of disease in turtles may be specific for a certain disease, such as nasal discharge in the case of a respiratory infection, or non-specific, such as a turtle with anorexia (lack of appetite) and lethargy, which can be seen with many diseases.  ANY deviation from normal should be a cause for concern and requires immediate evaluation by your veterinarian.

How are turtle diseases treated?

Vitamin A deficiency is treated with either oral or injectable Vitamin A.  Treatment should only be done under veterinary supervision, as hypervitaminosis A, a condition resulting from the incorrect usage and over-dosage of Vitamin A, can occur.

Respiratory infections are most often caused by bacteria; many of these turtles also have Vitamin A deficiency that requires treatment as well.  Your veterinarian may want to do radiographs (X-rays), blood tests, and cultures to determine the cause of the infection.  Occasionally, allergies can cause nasal discharge as well.  Treatment for true infections involves antibiotics given orally or as injections, and possibly nose drops.  Sick turtles require intensive care, including fluid therapy and force feeding, in the hospital.

Abscesses are treated surgically; the abscess is opened and flushed with a medicated solution.  A culture of the abscess may be needed to determine the type of infection that caused the abscess.  Topical medication and injectable antibiotics may also be used.

Shell fractures can usually be repaired by your veterinarian.  Severe shell fractures may not be able to be repaired.  Infections are more difficult to treat but usually involve identifying what type of organism (virus, bacterium, or fungus) is causing the problem, thoroughly cleaning the shell, and using appropriate anti-microbial therapy.

Parasites are treated with the appropriate deworming medication.  The type of parasite identified on the microscopic fecal examination will determine which drug is needed.

Any disease in turtles can be severe enough to cause a loss of appetite and lethargy.  When seen, these signs indicate a guarded prognosis and the need for hospitalization and intensive care, which can include fluid therapy and force-feeding.

9 Things to Know Before Adopting a Turtle

Turtles are very popular pets and can be terrific for people who want a fascinating animal to look at and appreciate — but maybe not necessarily to cuddle with. Turtles can be great for families with elementary school-age children and older, but not ideal for families with very young kids who might drop them, forget to feed them or forget to wash their hands after handling them (there is a very important reason why — keep reading!). If you are thinking of getting a turtle as a pet, here are some interesting facts about them that you may not know.

  1. Not All Turtles Swim

Tortoises — as distinct from turtles — all live on land, but did you know not all turtles live in water? Some turtles, such as several species of box turtles, need access to water to stay hydrated but spend most of their time living on dry land. People tend to use the terms “turtle” and “tortoise” interchangeably, but actually they are very different animals. Turtles, who mostly swim in water, typically have webbed feet, while tortoises have defined toes. Also, many turtles are omnivores, meaning they eat both plant and animal material, while the majority of tortoises are vegetarians.

  1. Turtles Are Long Lived

Many turtles, when housed at the right temperature and humidity, exposed to ultraviolet light, and fed a species-appropriate diet, can live for decades. Many of my chelonian (another word for turtle) patients, in fact, outlive their original owners and are passed from generation to generation within families. Their longevity is certainly something for a potential owner to consider before bringing a turtle into the home.

  1. All Turtles Carry Salmonella

Salmonella is a species of bacteria that many reptiles, but especially turtles, can carry normally in their intestinal tracts and are unaffected by it. They shed this bacteria in their stool intermittently. In people and other mammals, such as pet cats and dogs, this bacteria can cause horrible gastrointestinal problems, such as severe vomiting and diarrhea. That’s why it is critical that anyone who handles a turtle, its droppings or the objects in its tank washes their hands afterward. This is particularly important when children, who often put their hands in their mouths, handle reptiles. It is also the main reason why turtles are not recommended as pets for families with very young children. In addition to rigorous hand washing, I remind all the families whose turtles I treat to keep a pump bottle of hand disinfectant right next to the tank.

  1. You Can Tell Boy and Girl Turtles Apart

With many exotic pets, it’s not always easy to know if you’ve got a boy or a girl, but in turtles, there are a couple of ways. One good rule of thumb for telling the difference between males and females is that males have longer tails, and their rectal opening — called the vent — is further down the length of their tail than in females. In girl turtles, the vent is much closer to the shell. Some species of turtles also show other differences between males and females, such as distinct shell shapes (the bottom shell, or plastron, in males may be curved inward so they can mount females for reproduction) or eye color (males’ eyes may be a brighter red than the brown eyes of females). Some male turtles also have longer nails than females.

  1. Females Can Lay Eggs Without Males

Like chickens, female turtles can lay eggs without a male turtle being around to fertilize them — although these infertile eggs won’t hatch. Many wild turtles lay eggs in the spring in response to temperature and light cycle changes; that’s why we see so many turtles out on the roads when warmer weather hits. They are on a search to find sandy or soft soil in which to dig and bury their eggs. Pet turtles, however, often do not follow these seasonal rules as their environments do not change significantly and they can lay eggs year-round.

  1. Aquatic Turtles Still Need Dry Land

Turtles typically live in rectangular tanks filled with water, as they spend most of their time swimming. Yet even aquatic turtles need to dry off sometimes. So all turtles should have a basking area in their tanks — typically a large rock — where they can climb up and hang out. But also keep in mind that turtles love to eat rocks, so make sure that all rocks in the tank (including any gravel in the bottom or that is used for basking areas) are bigger than your turtle’s head in order to prevent inadvertent snacking. Rocks can cause a gastrointestinal tract obstruction.

7.Even Tiny Turtles Need Big Spaces

Most turtle breeders will tell you that, as a general rule of thumb, turtle tanks need to be five times the length of an adult turtle and contain water that is two and a half times as deep as the turtle is long. The bigger the turtle, the bigger the tank and the greater the volume of water required. A powerful filter is also required to keep all that water clean, as turtles both eat and defecate where they live. The filter needs to be changed regularly depending on the size of the tank and the number of turtles it houses (your veterinarian should be able to advise you on a preferred schedule).

  1. Turtles Need Veggies, Too

Turtles have a high requirement for vitamin A in their diets as they do not store this vitamin in their bodies. As a result, they need to get it from their food. Great dietary sources of vitamin A for turtles, depending on their species, include dark leafy green vegetables and red, orange or yellow veggies, such as bell peppers and squash. Without adequate vitamin A, many turtles will develop swollen eyelids and have difficulty seeing. If your turtle develops these signs, be sure to have him examined by a turtle-savvy veterinarian.

  1. Turtles Know Their Owners!

Most people don’t realize this, but many turtles recognize the sight and sounds of their owners! In fact, many owners comment how their pets swim right up to the water surface to greet them when they walk in the room. You might not expect it, but your turtle may actually come to you when you call him!

Turtles can be phenomenal pets if you are willing to take the time to set up and maintain their environments properly and feed them according to their species-specific needs. And remember, just like our furry friends, turtles also need routine veterinary care as well. Most importantly, if you find out that a pet turtle is not for you, please don’t release it into the wild. Many pet turtle species are not meant to live in the wild and will die without care or can introduce diseases that can sicken wild turtles. There are plenty of animal shelters or turtle rescues that will take in an unwanted pet.Though not every owner wants a pet that is as labor intensive as a turtle, when they are healthy, as you can see from these fascinating facts, turtles can be tremendously terrific to have around!

Quick Facts about Indian Star Tortoise

Species Name: Geochelone elegans
Family: Testudinidae
Care Level: Difficult
Temperature: 90-95 degrees F for basking
70-85 degrees F in enclosure overall
Temperament: Very shy but docile and not territorial
Do not tolerate handling
Color Form: Dark brown or black shell with yellow, star-like markings
Lifespan: 30-55 years
Size: 7-12 inches
Diet: Herbivore
Variety of grasses, leafy greens, etc.
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons if kept indoors
Prefers to live outdoors in a 6’ x 6’ enclosure
Tank Set-Up: A thick layer of soil at the bottom, hiding box, basking lamp, plants, and a shallow water container
Compatibility: Indian star tortoises get along well with each other. They do not tolerate other pets.
READ MORE :  Care & Management of Indian Flap shell turtle (Lissemys Punctata)

 

 

NB:

  • Indian star tortoiseis found across the Indian sub-continent, more specifically, in the Central and Southern parts of India, in West Pakistan and in Sri Lanka.
  • Protection Status:
  • Threat:The species faces two threats- loss of habitat to agriculture and illegal harvesting for the pet trade.
    • According to the Wildlife Crime Control Bureau, 90% of the trade of Star Tortoise occurs as part of the International pet market.
    • If their exploitation had continued at a similar pace or had expanded, a decline of greater than 30% was predicted by 2025.
  • Conservation Efforts:

Recently India’s proposal to upgrade the protection status of Star Tortoise from Appendix II to Appendix I was approved by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES)

Indian Star Tortoise Overview

Native to India, Sri Lanka, and Pakistan, the Indian star tortoise is one of the most popular species of pet tortoises due to their striking appearance and docile nature. These tortoises are considered endangered in their native habitat. Because of this, it’s illegal to capture and export Indian star tortoises, although unfortunately, this does still occur.

Indian star tortoises are used to a warm, wet natural environment. To stay healthy, their captive environment will need to be as similar as possible to the natural one. Indian star tortoises prefer to live outside if they are able.

Indian star tortoises will not be the right pet for everyone. They are shy and don’t tolerate handling well. In addition, they do have some pretty specific care requirements. Indian star tortoises are sensitive creatures who won’t tolerate many variations to those requirements either.

Keeping an Indian star tortoise will require a daily time commitment and attention to keeping their enclosures and diet just right. If you think you are up for the challenge, read on to find out more details about caring for the Indian star tortoise!

How Much Do Indian Star Tortoise Cost?

As we discussed, Indian star tortoises cannot be legally caught and sold from the wild. Fortunately, these tortoises breed well in captivity so there are many captive-bred tortoises available for sale.

Baby tortoises are less expensive while breeding females will fetch a much higher price.

Typical Behavior & Temperament

Unlike many tortoise species, the Indian star tortoise is not territorial or aggressive. Several tortoises, either male or female, can be safely kept together provided their enclosure is large enough. Indian star tortoises are not big diggers or climbers like many other types of tortoises.

Indian star tortoises are very shy and spend a lot of their time hiding either in a hiding box or in tall grass. They do not tolerate handling and can become stressed if handled too much.

Appearance & Varieties

A big reason why the Indian star tortoise is so popular is its beautiful markings. Indian star tortoises feature a dark brown or black shell, with a pattern of ridges along the back and sides. Each of these ridges is marked with bright yellow streaks, forming the star patterns that give this tortoise its name. The head, tail, and legs of the Indian star tortoise are covered with light brown scales.

Technically, there are three separate variants of Indian star tortoises, depending on where they are found. These tortoises are native to India, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. Indian Star varieties from Pakistan and northern India tend to be larger and darker colored than those from southern India. The Sri Lankan tortoises are larger than the southern India variety and usually have more yellow on their shells.

How to Take Care of Indian Star Tortoise

Indian star tortoises can be a bit tricky to care for. While their needs aren’t too complicated, they won’t tolerate if they don’t have just the right living conditions and may become sick or unhealthy. Here are some guidelines on how to properly care for your Indian star tortoise.

Habitat, Tank Conditions & Setup

Outdoor Enclosure

If you live in a warm climate, Indian star tortoises will happily live outdoors.

Indian star tortoises can be kept in a 6’ x 6’ outdoor enclosure. The fence surrounding the enclosure only needs to be about 8 inches high since these tortoises are not good climbers. If there is a danger of predators in your area, you may need to provide protective screening over your tortoise enclosure.

Within the enclosure, your tortoises will need a hiding box, heated if necessary. There should also be a grassy area, including tall grass for hiding, as well as a bare dirt area for basking or laying eggs. Also, be sure to include a shallow water dish large enough for the tortoises to soak.

Indoor Tank Setup

If you are keeping your Indian star tortoise indoors, one adult tortoise will need at least a 50-gallon tank to live comfortably. Make sure the tank has adjustable vents or a screened side for proper ventilation.

Place at least 6-8 inches of substrate like peat moss or organic potting soil in the bottom of the tank. You can add rocks or other features if you want but they aren’t necessary. Add some live plants to the tank but make sure they are safe for your tortoise to eat.

Your tortoise’s tank will also need a hiding spot and a shallow water dish big enough for the tortoise to soak in.

Temperature

Indian star tortoises need to live in very warm conditions. The tank will need a basking spot, heated to about 90-95 degrees F. The rest of the tank should always stay above 70 degrees, with an ideal temperature in the mid-80s F.

Besides heating lamps, heating pads can be used to keep your tortoise’s tank nice and warm. A tank thermometer is recommended to help keep the temperature in a safe range.

Humidity

Indian star tortoises need high humidity as well. The tank humidity should be kept at around 80%. Dry tank conditions can lead to respiratory problems so this is one of those living conditions we mentioned that needs to stay just right to keep your tortoise healthy.

Installing a hygrometer in your tank is the best way to monitor the humidity and make adjustments as needed. Keeping the substrate moist and adjusting the tank vents can help keep humidity high. You can also place an automatic mister in your tank.

Lighting

Indian star tortoises require UV light to stay healthy. Outdoor tortoises will get their UV rays from sunlight, but you will need to provide your indoor tortoise with a UVB light.

You will want a 10% UVB light which covers your tortoise’s entire tank. The tortoise will need 8-12 hours of UVB exposure daily.

Does The Indian Star Tortoise Get Along with Other Pets?

Indian star tortoises get along very well together, unlike many species of tortoise. Even male Indian star tortoises can live together without aggression or becoming territorial. Several male and female tortoises can happily co-exist in a large enough (usually outdoor) enclosure.

Because they are so shy and sensitive, Indian star tortoises don’t get along well with other animals, especially predator-type animals like dogs and cats. You will need to make sure your Indian star tortoise is secure and feels safe from any other pets in the household.

Make sure outdoor enclosures are secure and that your tortoises can’t see out of their fence if they are sharing their yard with dogs or cats. Indoors, you will want to keep your tortoise tank safely away from other pets. Even if your dogs and cats don’t behave aggressively towards your tortoise, just the stress of knowing an animal they consider a predator is present can cause problems with your tortoise.

What to Feed Your Indian Star Tortoise

Indian star tortoises are herbivores and natural foragers who will eat a range of plants and vegetables. To keep your tortoise healthy, you should feed a high-fiber, calcium-rich diet with as much variety as possible.

Some healthy food choices for your tortoise include:

  • Grasses, including alfalfa, Bermuda, and ryegrass
  • Leafy greens such as lettuces, mustard greens, or dandelion greens
  • Prickly pear cactus leaves
  • Vegetables such as carrots, squash, or bell peppers
  • Commercial tortoise diets

Avoid feeding your tortoise fruit, which can cause diarrhea and lead to dehydration. You should also not feed vegetables such as spinach and kale because they can interfere with how your tortoise uses calcium in its body.

Feed your tortoise about as much as they can eat in 15-30 minutes every day. Another good gauge for how much to feed the tortoise is to feed about as much food as the size of their shell.

Keeping Your Indian star tortoise Healthy

Providing the correct living conditions and feeding a healthy diet are the best steps you can take to keep your Indian star tortoise healthy. The two most common health concerns in Indian star tortoises are directly related to improper diet and living conditions.

  • Respiratory Issues– Indian star tortoises can develop respiratory issues if they become too cold or dry. You will notice swelling and discharge from your tortoise’s eyes, nose, and mouth if this happens. Keeping your tortoise’s tank humid and warm will help you avoid these problems. Dirty tanks or enclosures can also contribute to respiratory problems. You should make time to spot clean your tortoise’s tank every day and change their water when it becomes dirty. Once a month you will need to deep clean and sanitize your tortoise’s full enclosure.
  • Metabolic Bone Disease –If tortoises aren’t getting enough UV light or a calcium-rich diet, they can develop issues with their bones and shell. Not getting enough calcium leads to brittle and weak bones as well as shell disease. Your tortoise’s shell may crack or develop holes, putting them at risk for other health problems. To avoid any issues with calcium, make sure your tortoise gets the recommended amount of daily UV light. Change the bulb in your UV lamp every 6 months to be sure it’s always working. Feed a varied diet and ask your veterinarian if you need to add calcium or vitamin supplements to your tortoise’s food as well.

Breeding

Indian star tortoises breed well in captivity. They usually breed and lay eggs in warm and wet conditions, which will be seasonal for outdoor tortoises, typically fall or winter. Indoor tortoises may breed and lay eggs year-round if conditions are suitable.

Female tortoises burrow into the sand or dirt to lay their eggs, so they must have access to an area of substrate deep enough for them to accomplish this. Indian star tortoises may lay eggs 1-4 times per year, producing 2-6 eggs each time.

To successfully hatch Indian star tortoises, it is recommended that they be incubated between 100-180 days at a temperature of 80-89 degrees F. The sex of the baby tortoises is determined by the temperatures at which they are incubated. Higher temperatures of 88-89 degrees will develop more quickly and produce females. Male tortoises arrive when the incubation temperatures are cooler, 84-85 degrees.

Hatchling tortoises should be kept indoors for safety as they grow. Their habitat and diet needs are similar to adult tortoises although they may require more calcium to grow properly. Consult your veterinarian to be sure you are providing the right nutrition for your growing tortoises.

Are Indian Star Tortoises Suitable For You?

Keeping an Indian star tortoise as a pet might be the right choice for you if you are willing to devote the daily time to keep them healthy. As we discussed, they are not a pet that can tolerate dirty or incorrect living conditions without becoming sick or distressed. A good rule of thumb is to expect to spend about 45 minutes a day caring for your Indian star tortoise.

If you can provide a safe enclosure for the Indian star tortoise, as well as be diligent about keeping it clean, warm, and humid, you might just be a suitable owner for one of these beautiful creatures.

Conclusion

Indian star tortoises make beautiful, if not very interactive pets. Keeping any kind of pet is a big responsibility and not one that should be taken lightly. Make sure you know what you are getting into by doing your research and learning all you can before committing to bringing an Indian star tortoise into your household. Also remember, that Indian star tortoises live significantly longer than pets like dogs or cats, as long as 30-55 years, so this could be a very long commitment indeed!

 

DR. RPHIT RAJ,EXOTIC PET ANIMAL EXPERT,KOLKATA

REFERENCE-ON REQUEST

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