CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF MULES IN INDIA
Mules are sterile cross born out of donkey stallion and horse mare. They inherit speed, strength and appearance from mare and docility and sturdiness from the donkey stallion. It is worth mentioning that mules are widely used for pulling carts in plains (Haryana, Punjab and Uttar Pradesh) and for carrying men and luggage in difficult hilly terrains (J&K, Himachal, Uttarakhand) as pack animals, where motorized vehicles cannot reach. To some extent Inotorized vehicles are replacing mules in plains and hilly regions where there is road network. In spite of slight downward trend of equine population from 1966 to 2003 in India, there has been increasing trend of mule population. In spite of Inechanized transport and all unfavourable circumstances, the mule population has shown significant increase to the extent of 675% over 1956. This clearly indicates the distinct role played by the mule as a draught animal for transporting the agricultural commodities and household goods in the states where agricultural and horticultural produce is affluent requiring transport from the point of production to the point of sale and consumption. Some people are engaged in producing, rearing and maintaining mules for their livelihood. They rear mares for mule production, maintain mule foals from birth till 4 to 6 month of age and then sale out these foals and thus earn their Iivelihood. The buyers of these foals rear them till they become adult and then sale them out to the actual users, who uses mules for various load carrying activities. You probably know the expression, “Stubborn as a Mule.” Mules, the result of crossing a male Donkey and a female horse are renowned for being somewhat obstinate. However, this isn’t necessarily the case when you know how to handle a mule correctly. The mule not only makes a great companion but, in many cases, is a highly competitive equine athlete.
Mules are cross between a male donkey, a “Jack” and the female horse, a mare. They are classed as an Equine but are very different to horses, the build and characteristics of the mule largely coming from the “dam” or mother. Larger build, draft mules are ideal for farm work as they are steady and reliable workers. As a general rule they can carry or haul approximately 30% of their body weight.
Mules are essentially sterile: the males cannot sire young and it is unusual for the mares to have estrus cycles. However, the occasional female mule that is capable of estrus is called a “Molly.” Mollies have been known to have offspring either naturally or via embryo transfers. Gelded male mules are often called, “John Mules.” When a stallion is crossed with a female donkey, the offspring is referred to as a Hinny. But, they are far less common in mules.
Mule Physiology
The average weight for a mule is between 750 -1000 lbs. Mules, much like their donkey sires, tend to require less food than a horse. The mule has a short, thick head, very long ears, relatively thin limbs, small sturdy hooves and a short thick mane – very similar to a donkey. Unlike the thick, uneven coat of the donkey, the mule has a smooth coat without tufts. The body shape appears more horse-like particularly in the length of the neck. Coat color can vary from solids through to roan, palomino, dun, buckskin even Appaloosas.
Mule Temperament and Intelligence
The mule is regularly chosen as a working animal due to its great temperament, sturdiness and sure footed abilities. Their hooves and coats are extremely hardy. Mules are strong animals who can work in all conditions and weather. Often more intelligent than their parents, mules tend to enjoy social interaction. They tend to be gentle, docile creatures, making them great family pets as well as working animals.
What Makes Mules Special?
Among the unique traits possessed by many Mules:
The mule, much like the camel, is at home in a desert like climate, able to leverage scarce water rations far more effectively than horses. It is rare for a mule to become dehydrated.
Mules live longer than horses, on average. The median lifespan of a horse is 15 years whereas, it is 18 years for a mule. Some mules have been known to live well past 40 years of age.
Mules have super strong hooves. While their feet are small, they are far more robust and much less brittle than those of the horse. Fairly resistant to hoof problems, their feet can be kept in great condition simply with regular trimming. They are very surefooted and careful due to their small, narrow hoof structure.
The saying “stubborn as a mule,“ rarely applies. A mule will work hard, but this saying likely comes from the ability of the mule to resist abuse. Unlike a horse, if a mule becomes overheated, overworked, or overused, he will often slow down to a safe pace, sometimes stopping completely.
Mules have very few feeding problems :they do not get colic and laminitis as easily as horses and require very little grain feed, subsisting beautifully just on forage. Their hay does not need to be top range, often second cut or older hay is fine. Mules are calm, reliable animals. A common expression in the mule industry is, “Mules must be trained and handled the way horses should be trained and handled.” In other words, horses are far more forgiving about mediocre training whereas mules can become permanently difficult when trained improperly.
Mules are equine animals like horses, so caring for them is almost the same as caring for horses. However, mules are often smaller and require less food than horses. The basics of mule care extend from feeding and grooming to exercise and health care. Before planning a routine for your mules, consult an equine veterinarian and consider weight, age, climate and other factors.
Sheltering
Mules need a roofed, dry area to sleep and to rest in. An outdoor pen or corral is not enough; a barn or stable is required to properly house mules. Be sure the confinement area is secure so the mule cannot escape. For multiple mules, divide the space into stalls to keep mules separated. Each stall should have bedding such as dry straw or wood shavings.
Feeding
Feeding Mules and Donkeys
Donkeys and mules have unique evolutionary traits that mean you should not feed them like a horse.
Mules and donkeys are members of the equine family, along with horses, ponies and zebras. Most people think you can feed them a diet similar to horses, but in lower quantity. Donkeys, however, have unique evolutionary traits that make them anatomically and behaviorally distinct. Donkeys are highly adaptable feeders that if given the opportunity, will consume a variety of different grasses and shrubs to obtain sufficient nutrients. It is generally accepted that the donkey can exist with less food than a horse.
Donkeys and mules can utilize more mature, less digestible, more fibrous plant material than a horse. They are able metabolize their feed very efficiently and can be overfed very easily. The donkeys’ efficient utilization of food makes them “easy keepers.” However, don’t let the term misguide you. It is important to take care in determining when and how much to feed a donkey. Obesity is a major concern in modern domesticated donkeys and mules.
Forage
Studies have shown that donkeys voluntarily consume much less forage compared to horses; 1.5% of body weight (BW) for donkeys compared to 3.1% of BW for horses. The donkeys heightened ability to digest low-quality forage has been likened to that of a goat. It is important not to provide pasture that is lush and nutrient dense. Low-quality pasture grasses are adequate.
Mules are not quite as efficient as donkeys, but are much more efficient than horses. There is limited information about protein requirements for donkeys, but researchers have suggested that they are very efficient in the utilization of dietary protein. It has also been suggested that donkeys have a 20% lower digestible energy requirement than horses.
Good grass hay is adequate for donkeys. Legume hay such as alfalfa is not recommended for the same reason that lush pasture is not good for donkeys. The digestibility is very high as is the energy and nutrient content.
Donkeys and mules are prone to obesity, and will develop laminitis if they are given access to lush pastures such as spring and fall pasture.
Concentrate
While grass and hay is often sufficient to supply the maintenance requirements for most donkeys and mules, additional supplementation in the form of concentrate feeds might be needed when donkeys cannot eat sufficient forage to meet nutrient requirements. Classes of donkeys and mules that need concentrate feeding include those that are working heavily, pregnant, lactating, growing or senior.
The amount of concentrate that should be provided is determined by the BW and physiological state of the animal.
Water
The donkey has the ability to continue eating for several days when deprived of drinking water. It has been suggested that donkeys are able to conserve internal water stores and avoid thirst by reducing sweating for temperature control and reducing the amount of water lost in manure.
Donkeys have the lowest water requirements of all domestic animals, with the exception of camels. Under hot conditions (85°F to 100°F), donkeys consumed water at a rate of 9% of BW per day. Under cooler conditions donkeys consumed water at a rate of 4-5% of their BW per day.
Nutritional Disorders
Obesity is the biggest challenge facing most non-working donkeys and mules that are kept in areas of the world where food sources are abundant and of good quality. Emaciation is very common in most areas where donkeys are used heavily for work, and food is scarce and of poor quality.
Body condition scoring donkeys is very similar to condition scoring horses using a 1 to 9 scoring system where 1 is emaciated and 9 is obese. Donkeys tend to accumulate fat on the neck, on either side of the chest wall giving a saddlebag appearance and around the buttocks.
Several studies in horses and ponies have clearly shown that regional fat deposited on the neck of the animal indicated a higher risk for developing metabolic challenges such as insulin resistance and laminitis. Donkeys frequently accumulate fat on their necks and, therefore, are at high risk of insulin resistance and laminitis.
Donkeys and mules that are not doing any work should be able to meet all of their nutrient requirements from good grass hay (such as timothy or orchard grass offered from Standlee Premium Western Forage) fed at a rate of 1.5% of body weight and a low-intake ration balancer pellet. If the donkey or mule is overweight, then this amount should be decreased to 1.2% of body weight. In severe obesity cases, and with the guidance of a veterinarian or nutritionist, this can be reduced to 1% of body weight.
Working, lactating or growing animals might need additional concentrate.
Due to the donkey’s increased ability to metabolize energy and protein, it is important that we do not feed concentrates that are high in these nutrients.
Determine your mules’ individual weights, then feed or graze them to maintain a healthy weight. Consult a veterinarian to determine an exact feeding recommendation if you are unsure. Generally, mules can graze all day on hay or grains, and they can eat anything horses can eat. You can provide treats such as apples, carrots and other fruits or vegetables. Fresh water should always be available. Do not allow mules to go longer than 8 hours without food.
Grooming and Hoof Care
Brush your mules to maintain optimal hair and skin health. If your mules get a lot of exercise, get very dirty or muddy, or endure high temperatures for extended periods of time and sweats, they’ll need baths. Give baths with just water or with horse shampoo. Like horses, mules used for work or recreation need horseshoes and require hoof maintenance. Consult with a farrier, a specialist who applies horseshoes and cares for hooves.
Exercise
Daily exercise is important for mules to maintain good health and an ideal weight. If your mules are not being used for work or recreational riding, at least provide a large fenced area for them to walk and run about in.
Cleanup
Daily removal of manure and rinsing of the stalls is imperative to having healthy and happy mules. Scoop up and dispose of manure with a shovel or scraper, and rinse and wash stalls with a hose or pressure washer as needed. Failing to keep a clean area can result in health problems and sickness in mules.
Health Care
In addition to basic grooming and hoof care, you’ll need to address other health issues. Take notice of your mule’s eyes, mouth, skin and behavior. You may also need to use prescribed treatments for lice, worms and other parasitic infections. Yearly veterinary examinations and vaccinations should be part of your mule care routine.
Steps for Best Management Practices for Horses/Mules at the Home Farm, Ranch, or Stable:
- Keep individual health records for every horse. Maintain a separate record for each horse which may be as simple as a folder, notebook, or binder. Make a plan and follow it. The record should contain: a. Proof of Coggins Test results, Health Certificates, and other required tests (i.e., piroplasmosis, CEM) b. A Vaccination Plan i. Consult your veterinarian on the recommended vaccinations for your area and for the locations that your horse may go to throughout the year. ii. Keep and follow an annual vaccination schedule that includes when to vaccinate against each disease to give the best protection. iii. Record each vaccination by date administered and list the scheduled dates for each booster. c. A copy of the registration papers and photographs of the horse, its gender, age, and any identifying characteristics d. Veterinary records (receipts) including a dated list of major diseases or major injuries e. A Deworming Plan i. Consult with your veterinarian, ii. Make an annual plan for parasite management, iii. Keep records of fecal tests, iv. Keep records of the dates and brand name used (or generic name) for each deworming, f. Records of the horse’s travel (day, event, and location when he was away from home) 2. Keep wildlife away from your horses, especially the grain and hay. This may require special fencing around pastures, barn or stable repair, or trapping. Be sure to keep opossums, skunks, rats, birds, and raccoons out of horses’ grain and hay. Do not feed horses grain or hay that has been contaminated with manure or “poop”, or is moldy, dusty, or wet. A farm dog and barn cat may be helpful with pest control around the barn or stable. Keep grain in animal proof containers with a lid that can be tightly secured. 3. Feed and water horses in individual buckets or feeders that can be cleaned or sterilized. Keep horses on a regular feeding schedule with plenty of clean water. If you must change the horse’s grain or hay, be sure to do so gradually over several days. 4. Use needles and syringes only once. Do not use the same needle and syringe on more than one horse. Dispose of all used needles and syringes in a sharps waste container – this is a plastic container box with a lid that is designed for safe disposal of sharp materials like needles, razors, blades, and sharp medical wastes that can puncture your skin. 5. Learn horse body condition scores. Keep your horses at the recommended body condition score which is usually between 4-7 (you can only see a faint outline of the ribs with a body condition score of 4, in horses with body condition scores greater than 5 you can feel the ribs but not see them). 6. Keep your equipment clean. Use separate brushes, bits, saddle pads, girths, and blankets for each horse and wash and sun-dry them, or sterilize them, every few weeks. 7. Quarantine all incoming horses at a distance of 300 yards away from all horses that reside on the farm or in the stable for 2-6 weeks. This includes new horses and horses that have been away from home, including horses that have gone to shows, fairs, rodeos, trail rides, races, or been ridden or worked away from home. Handle the horse(s) that stayed at home first, then the quarantined horse(s). Wash your hands and change your clothes and boots or shoes (or disinfect them) between these two groups of horses. Be sure your boots or shoes are clean and free of dirt and manure before disinfecting. 8. If a horse appears to be sick or depressed, isolate the horse for 2-6 weeks at a distance of 300 yards from all other horses. Work with the healthy horse(s) first, then the isolated horse(s). It is best if you wash your hands and change your clothes and boots or shoes (or disinfect them) between these two groups of horses. Be sure your boots or shoes are clean and free of dirt and manure before disinfecting. 9. For trucks, trailers, tractors, and borrowed equipment coming onto the farm, ranch, or stable, wash them before exposing your horses. 10. Wash your clothes and sterilize your shoes and boots after being on other farms or at horse activities and sales. 11. For visitors to the farm, ranch or stable, it is good to observe their habits before they enter the barn or touch the horses. Ask them to wash their hands and to use a boot disinfectant before entering the barn. If you think that they have handled sick animals before coming to your farm, either refuse them or insist that they change their clothes, wash their hands, and disinfect their shoes or boots. 12. Keep an emergency kit. It should contain a hoof pick, gauze, cotton leg wraps, vet wrap, clean towels, an animal rectal thermometer, a stethoscope, a flashlight or head lamp, latex gloves, telfa pads (non-adhesive bandages), alcohol, Betadine®, Veterocyn®, antimicrobial soap, blunt-end scissors, pain-killers (like phenylbutazonee or Banamine®), antibiotic ointment, duct tape, wire cutters, a small hammer, and a knife.
Steps for Best Management Practices for Horses/Mules While Away from Home:
- Have the horse’s vaccinations, Coggins Test, Health Papers, and dewormings up to date. Check with the location towhich you are traveling in advance to learn about other required tests and if additional vaccinations are needed. 2. If your horse looks depressed, stops eating, has a fever, or is sick, isolate him at home and do not take the horse to a place where there are other horses. Stay home and contact your veterinarian. 3. Feed and water horses in individual buckets that can be cleaned or sterilized. Carry extra buckets for watering and feeding with you. Do not use common watering tanks or buckets that are borrowed. Instead fill your water buckets from faucets or carry horse drinking water with you in a closed container. If you must borrow a bucket, disinfect it with bleach before and after using it. Keep your horse(s) on their regular feeding schedule and provide plenty of clean water. Take your horse’s grain, hay, and bedding with you and keep it in a secure place. If you must change the horse’s grain or hay, be sure to do so gradually over several days. 4. Take your own equipment. If you must borrow equipment, be sure to wash or sterilize it prior to use. 5. Keep your horse(s) 300 yards away from other horses as much as possible. Park your trailer away from the others. Be alert, watch, and listen. If your horse is stabled while away from home, be sure that it is clean and has been disinfected. Check for loose wiring and dangerous electrical outlets. Watch for wildlife and sick or distressed horses. If you see horses that are coughing, sneezing, snorting, or with a “snotty” nose, isolate your horse immediately. You may want to talk to your veterinarian. Upon returning home, quarantine the horse for 2-6 weeks at 300 yards from other horses. If the horse becomes sick, isolate the horse for 2-6 weeks at 300 yards from other horses. Wash your hands and change your clothes and boots or shoes (or disinfect them) between these two groups of horses. Be sure your boots or shoes are clean and free of dirt and manure before disinfecting. 6. Wash returning trucks, trailers, tractors and equipment before exposing your horses to them. 7. Wash your clothes and sterilize your shoes and boots after being on other farms or at horse activities and sales. 8. Carry an emergency kit (see list on prior page) and a cell phone.
