Dr-Amit Bhardwaj

Veterinary surgeon in Goa & Pune

Parrots

Parrots are highly intelligent birds and can make wonderful pets, but there are some things to know about them and their care requirements before making the decision to get one. First, parrots are wild by nature, not domesticated (like dogs and cats), so they retain many behaviors and instincts of their cousins in the wild. Next, parrots are not all the same species, and so you will need to learn qualities of your particular parrot species when getting one. Lastly, parrots live much longer than most other pets: smaller parrots (cockatiels or parrotlets) can live 20-30 years, while the larger species (macaws, amazons, or cockatoos) can live to be 60-80 years old

• The order Psittaciformes consists of approximately three hundred and thirty species, which are mainly confined to tropical regions.
• They have sharply curved upper beak that fits over their lower bill
• The degree of curvature depends on the species concerned, and this in turn reflect its function.
• Long billed Corella uses its upper mandible to dig for roots.
• Another well-known characteristic of parrots is their potentially long lifespan.
• The parrots have the ability to mimic the sounds, including that of human voice.
• Parrots obtained in young can be easily tamed and devoted to their owners.

Budgerigar

• The Budgerigar or Common Pet Parakeet (Melopsittacus undulatus), often called a budgie or parakeet, is a small parrot and the only species in the Australian genus Melopsittacus.
• A small long-tailed predominantly green and yellow bird with black scalloped markings on the wings and shoulders in the wild, the Budgerigar has been bred extensively with a profusion of colour forms resulting.

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Cockatiel

• Another member of the parrot family from the arid interior Australia.
• The distinctive crest of the Cockatiel can be held erect or lowered, which is a feature otherwise peculiar to the cockatoos.  nevertheless, unlike cockatoos has evolved a long tail and is of slimmer proportion overall.
• They also have very different call notes, cockatiels possess an inoffensive voice, compared with the harsh screeches of the cockatoos.

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Lovebirds

• Lovebirds are a group of small short tailed parrots occurring in Africa and on certain offshore islands.
• Nine species form the genus, and all are characterized by their unusual breeding behavious.
• Love birds collect nesting materials, with which they line the nest site, carrying it either in their beak or tucked in among the feather of the rump, depending upon the species concerned.  in spite of their name lovebirds can prove extremely aggressive, especially when breeding, and for this reason it is safer to keep pairs on their own.
•  They are highly attractive and rewarding bird to keep.

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Macaws

• Macaws is characterized by large area of essentially bare facial skin on either sided of the head.
• Though the posses fearsome beaks, macaws can prove very gentle, but never take any chance with an unknown birds.  they are not usually mimics, but are certainly intelligent birds.
• Macaws show a strong tendency to become one-person pets, and this can present a great problem when purchasing a tame adult bird that is used to its surrounding.
• They have long potential lifespan and mature slowly.

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Cockatoos

• All cockatoos can be instantly recognized by their crests, which are raised when the birds are excited or alarmed.
• Most cockatoos are white but some are pink or black.
• They have extremely strong, heavy bills.
• The largest is the Black Palm cockatoo of 28 inches.
• The Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Cacatua galerita, is a relatively large white cockatoo found in wooded habitats in Australia and New Guinea. They can be locally very numerous, leading to them sometimes being considered pests. They are well known in aviculture, although they can be demanding pets.

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Parrot Care Tips: Everything You Need To Know

There are over 350 species of parrots in the world today, and these animals are becoming increasingly popular as pets due to their social nature and long life-span when compared with other exotic pets. While different species of birds have varying life spans, some of our larger parrot species can sometimes live up to 70 years with exceptional husbandry and diet, and appropriate veterinary care. Birds have specific needs in order to thrive both physically as well as mentally, but if cared for appropriately will be a loyal companion for many years. If you are considering getting a parrot or have already welcomed one or more into your home, knowing all you can regarding their care is a necessity. Parrots are a long-term commitment.

The Natural History of Parrots

Parrots are considered to be the most intelligent type of bird and some of the most intelligent animals in the world, fascinating humans for over 5,000 years. Bird origins start in the Jurassic Period of the world’s history and were believed to share a taxonomic group with theropod dinosaurs known as the group Paraves . The modern birds that we have in our lives today are in a biological class known as Aves, and within the Aves subgroups, the order psittaciformes are found. This name is where the term Psittacines come from to describe our parrot friends. They are most often found in tropical and subtropical regions like Australia, and South and Central America, but are known to be found on all continents with the exception of Antarctica.

Common Breeds of Parrots

There are over 350 different species of parrot in the psittacine family and while they all share the traits of a curved beak and zygodactyl feet, there are specific needs for each of the species. Some of the most popular types of parrots include budgies, cockatiels, cockatoos, African Greys, Amazon, Parrots, Quaker Parrots, Macaws and more. When deciding whether or not a parrot would be a good fit for your home, learning about their environmental, dietary, social, and medical requirements is a must! Common breeds of parrots kept as pets include our smaller birds, Budgies, Cockatiels, Lovebirds, Conures, and also bigger parrots such as African Greys, Amazon Parrots, and Macaws! The age and experience of individuals in your household, room that you are able to give to a parrot, and how much time you are home to socialize with your bird are all considerations when choosing which species is right for your home.

How to Care for Your Pet Parrot

Parrot Housing

Parrots live exciting and active lives in the wild, so replicating an enriching environment in the home is a must to keep your parrot happy and healthy. If kept outside, supervision is a must and birds need to be brought in or kept in a safe, sealed enclosure at night that has no access for predators; the recommendation is to always bring birds inside though for safety and ability to control the environment they’re in. Time spent out of your birds enclosure or dedicated bird-safe room if not caged should be supervised, as parrots are great at getting into trouble around the house! They should have time spent out of the cage at a minimum of once a day for exercise, enrichment, and socialization.

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Choosing a Parrot Cage

The size of your parrot cage is the first thing to research, as a small budgerigar will require a much smaller cage than a Hyacinth Macaw! When choosing a cage, you should ensure that your bird will be able to stretch out both wings fully without touching either side of the cage, as well as not having the tail touch the bottom of the cage.

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Birds should also be able to fly from one to another. This will help ensure that your bird will have adequate space for safety and mental health purposes. Another consideration is the material that the cage is made out of. Birds should not be kept in decorative cages that were not designed to be safe for birds, as these cages are often not able to withstand the powerful bite of a parrot beak or are made with materials that are toxic to birds. Cages to avoid include cages with a removable coating over the bars due to likelihood of ingestion by your parrots, as well as avoiding cages made of lead and zinc, or cages with very small, thin wires with small gaps in between to prevent injury.

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Parrot Cage Set up & Maintenance

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Cleaning Maintenance

In the wild, birds are able to make a mess with their food, eat, defecate and then fly far away from it. Parrots are very sensitive to waste products, molds, and anything that can cause airway irritation. Dumping food and water daily and washing bowls before replacing food is a key part in preventing mold exposure to your parrot. Putting in smaller amounts of food at a time based on how much your bird eats a day is a great way to minimize waste while keeping the cage as clean as possible. Water dishes should be changed as often as necessary to ensure your bird’s water bowl is always full with clean water.

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The bottom of the cage is the area you will see most feces and leftover food remains;this area should be cleaned daily. Most cages provide a grate at the bottom with a tray underneath of it. The tray should be covered with a disposable material such as paper towels and the grate should be kept above the covered tray. Deep cleaning of the cage should be done at least once weekly, or more as needed based on cage cleanliness with your bird, ensuring to clean all the cage wires, all perches and toys, and any crevices that harbor food or feces. Perches and toys should be replaced once they are dirty or destroyed as natural material toys can be difficult to adequately clean.

Parrot Enrichment and Exotic Bird Toys

A variety of perches should be made available in at least 3 different sizes and varying materials as well. Allowing a bird to have options helps them to not only have preferences and be exposed to variations in their daily life, but also encourage birds to exercise and orient themselves differently based on which perch they are on. Some birds may also prefer certain perches for different activities; they may like chewing on one perch, grooming their beak on another, but are most comfortable just spending time on a different material perch.

Toys help keep a bird busy, help with mental health and enrichment, and keep a bird entertained and happy. Toys should be made of only natural materials such as bird-safe paper, untreated wood, and raffia. Toys made of metal, rubber, or plastic should be avoided as they are easily destroyed and potentially ingested, and these materials often can expose a bird to lead or zinc toxicity from the materials of the toy. These toxicities often make a bird very sick, and can sometimes be fatal.

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Cage Placement

When choosing where to place a cage in your home, a few places should be avoided. Keeping cages away from the kitchen is important, especially for individuals who cook often. The kitchen is full of dangers for birds; parrots love to explore what their owners are doing, and can get caught on hot stoves, fall into pots of water, try to use utensils as toys, or inhale fumes toxic to birds such as those emitted from non-stick/Teflon pots or pants.

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Teflon toxicity can very quickly become fatal in birds, and smoke from heavy cooking can also lead to respiratory tract issues. Avoiding being directly next to a window is also important to ensure that your bird is not trapped in hot sun rays or caught in a drafty area. Cages should not be kept in laundry rooms or in areas that are likely to have molds or heavy aerosol or perfume usage.

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Parrot Temperature and Humidity

Parakeets were first introduced as pets into the United States in the 1940s, but as more was learned about larger parrots, they increased in popularity as house pets as well. Parrots are widespread throughout the world and can be found on every continent with the exception of Antarctica. Knowing that they are found in areas of ambient to warm temperatures means that cage placement also plays a role in your parrot’s daily life and considerations when adding one to your family.  Keeping parrots in areas of the home that are not affected by rapid, drastic temperature fluctuations are important, and keeping temperatures in their area ambient or warmer based on where your parrot species is native too, but a good start if unsure is keeping your parrot’s area above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Remember that using a space heater in your birds area can be a toxicity risk to your parrot if you do not purchase a bird-safe heater; some materials used in heaters are toxic to birds such as Teflon.

While temperature is one consideration, humidity is also important to maintain for parrot owners. Parrots are able to freely bathe in the wild, are often in the rain, and many species come from humid tropical climates. Adequate humidity plays a role in skin and feather health and appearance, and also affect a birds respiratory tract so opportunities to periodically bathe are important in a bird’s routine. Misting birds with just water, offering a bowl or sink with just water for a bath, and bringing your bird in the bathroom while you shower so they can enjoy the warm water steam are all great ways to make sure your bird has adequate humidity and some enrichment too! If you notice feather abnormalities such as feather dropping, the presence of stress bars, or feather picking and plucking, a visit to an avian specialty vet is warranted as soon as possible. These changes can have many different causes and an avian pet vet can help.

Parrot Diet and Nutrition

What Do Parrots Eat and Drink?

Parrots are herbivores and can be thought of as being “vegan”. Birds cannot process dairy or meat products. Parrots not only enjoy having a variety of different veggies, fruits, and fortified pelleted parrot foods, but they need variety in their diet to ensure their nutritional requirements are being met. In the wild, birds have access to a variety of different food types and these foods are in all different nutritional stages of a plants life when picked up by parrots. In captivity, birds are prone to obesity, vitamin and calcium deficiencies, and heart disease which is becoming increasingly common in captive parrots.

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Diet Percentages

A parrot should be provided with a variety of different food options, but proportions are the key to providing your parrot with a healthy diet. While fruits are certainly healthy for your bird and should be provided daily, ensuring a 70% vegetable to 30% fruit proportion in your parrot’s daily salad is critical to ensure your parrot is not eating too much fruit and taking in too many sugars and not getting in enough veggies. A high-quality pellet only diet should also be provided to your parrot; seed diets are not recommended as they are nutritionally deficient and high in fats. Treats such as high quality nuts or pellet-nut treats should only be provided in small quantities and when used in training, never given for free as part of the diet. Some species may have special dietary requirements such as lories or lorikeets that require fresh nectar, so knowing any special species requirements is necessary.

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Some foods can be particularly unhealthy or even toxic to birds.

Some foods to avoid:

• Dried fruit
• Avocado
• Salt or seasonings
• Raw potato and starches
• Chocolate
• Anything caffeinated
• Onion and garlic
• Wild berries
• Table scraps
• Dairy/eggs/meat

For birds that need some convincing to eat their vegetables or need to use their beak more, incorporating foods into toys or play time can be crucial in enrichment for your parrot. Placing vegetable leaves in different areas of the cage, putting pieces of their favorite treat within a foraging toy, or chopping up vegetables into different shapes and sizes can all make feeding time more fun for both bird and owner!

Parrot Behavior

Parrots can be quite sweet and playful in nature but they are intelligent birds who need stimulation in order to not be bored and to preserve their sanity. Birds that are not given enough socialization or attention often enough can become frustrated and eventually depressed and aggressive.

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For a mentally healthy and stimulated parrot, and to work on your bond, it is advisable to handle your pet parrot and let it out of its cage at least once daily. As birds are naturally curious about noises, you can leave a quietly playing radio or television show on for them and see which music they respond to. Making sure that all family members involved in parrot handling are holding and playing with a pet parrot appropriately is a key to your bird becoming a feathered family member to everyone in the home and allowing them to be happy as well!

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Parrots go through stages based on their age. There can be mood swings and characteristic changes that occur in your parrot. Destructive behavior can be a sign of an unhappy parrot or a parrot who is physically uncomfortable due to an underlying health concern; this behavior should never be ignored and an avian pet vet should be consulted. Reproductive behaviors are often seen in parrots once they reach a certain age, dependent upon the species, and should be discussed with an avian vet to help prevent complications related to reproductive activity. Signs of reproductive behavior include nesting behavior by tearing items up and building a nest, mating with other birds or humans, and regurgitation.

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Parrot Noises and Mimicking

The level of noise depends on the species of parrot and its upbringing. Parrots can often be quite loud, and sometimes even scream for attention or fun. Sometimes they make noise depending on the time of day. Many times the larger the parrot, the louder the noise they make, which is why they are unsuitable for most apartment settings.

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Many people purchase parrots because of their ability to “speak” or mimick, however not every parrot is guaranteed to exhibit this behavior. Many times, human companions can often get their parrot to use words in their correct context like names of family members, or greet them upon entering or leaving the house. This requires a lot of patient training which can take months.

Medical Care for Your Pet Parrot

Parrots are a prey species and therefore are very good at hiding their illnesses due to their survival instincts. These instincts encourage parrots to hide illnesses and injuries as long as they physically can,  because injuries or illness in the wild is a vulnerability, making them intriguing prey for a predator.  Being that birds are effective in hiding their issues, regular 6-month to 1-year avian veterinarian visits, depending on your birds age and health status, are recommended to ensure preventative measures are taken to provide your feathered friend with a long, healthy, and happy life.

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When Should You Bring Your Pet Parrot in for a Checkup?

When you bring home a parrot, be sure to schedule an appointment with an avian pet vet. During the initial exam, the veterinarian will perform a full physical exam, listen to heart, lungs, and sinuses, examine the ears, eyes, nose, beak, and inside the mouth. Recommendations will be made for yearly bloodwork and fecal testing and any other concerns will be discussed with the patient’s owners. Weights are taken and monitored to compare from each prior visit, and every year care and husbandry will be discussed to make sure the best possible care is being provided both at the avian hospital as well as at home. Behavior, enrichment, and socialization discussions are also an important part of any exam when dealing with any parrot patients.

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Common Parrot Health Concerns

There are many common health problems that could affect your parrot. Watch you pet parakeet carefully and make sure to bring them to a vet if you notice any unusual behavior or symptoms. Here are a few things that we commonly see:

• Metal toxicity
• Heart disease, high blood pressure, and atherosclerosis
• Viruses such as Psittacine Beak & Feather Disease, Polyoma virus
• Reproductive diseases such as egg binding, cloacal prolapse, gonadal tumors
• Yeast and bacterial overgrowth in the GI tract
• Trauma
• Nutritional deficiencies

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How Can You Tell When Your Parrot Is Sick? 

If you observe any changes in your bird’s behavior, schedule an appointment with a specialty avian vet nearby. Here are some signs that your parrot is experiencing something out of the ordinary:

• Excessive sleeping, lethargy, or exercise tolerance
• Abnormal feather loss, feather picking or plucking
• Change in appetite, feces, or urates
• Rapid breathing or difficulty breathing
• Discharge from eyes or nostrils
• Vomiting
• Trauma including broken blood feathers or flying into objects
• Weakness, difficulty perching or standing
• Sitting fluffed towards the bottom of the cage

Grooming & Boarding

Parrot Grooming

Parrots preen their own feathers, but they still need help in grooming themselves. This means taking them to the vet to have their nails trimmed.  Wings can be trimmed properly by your vet if you decide not to have your parrot flighted for safety reasons. Having wings trimming done by a veterinarian is important to avoid over grooming that could result in broken blood feathers and detrimental falls.  Beak trims are only necessary if deemed so by your veterinarian and can be harmful if done unnecessarily.  You can keep your parrot’s beak trimmed naturally by offering all natural wood toys and perches that they can groom their beaks on themselves.

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Do’s and Don’ts of Parrot Ownership

The Do’s

• DO concentrate on good behavior.
• DO give your birds a bath with water only or mist with a spray bottle at least 2 to 3 times a week.
• DO feed a wide variety of fresh fruits and veggies.
• DO feed and replace with fresh food daily and provide clean water at all times daily.
• DO clean and change the bottom of the cage daily. Scrape off any poop or organic material daily and wash and disinfect the cage weekly with a bird safe product.
• DO provide toys (8-10 is preferable) and rotate toys at least once a week.
• DO be sure your bird(s) has plenty of stimulating destructible and non-destructible toys to attack and chew.
• DO play directly and give your bird attention daily. Birds need at least 10 to 12 hours of sleep in a quiet dark room.
• DO give protein, in the form of cooked meat or scrambled, hard-boiled eggs at least once a week but no more than 3 times a week.
• DO remember that your bird(s) are intelligent. You need to interact with them and teach them.
• DO treat your bird like it is an intelligent 3 to 4-year-old human, you’ll get better results.
• DO be persistent and consistent with rules and boundaries.
• DO walk away, turn your back and act insulted by bad behavior. With good behavior is even more enthusiastic than usual during this training period to help develop your own habits. Your voice should be higher and a bit louder when praising and low and snarl when noting bad behavior.
• DO be patient, training takes time and there are no quick fixes for long-term results.
• DO ask questions. The only stupid question is one that is never asked.
• DO read as much, on your bird, as you possibly can.
• DO research online, with other bird owners, your vet, and behaviorists but do it with an open mind and think completely over what you are going to try to do before doing it.
• DO teach your bird to be handled by others.
• DO teach your bird the command to step up and step down.
• DO travel with your bird in a safe carrier if you must travel with your bird at all.
• DO make sure your vet is a licensed avian vet and have his or her phone number posted by the phone in case of an emergency arises.
• DO make sure that your bird sees an avian vet at least once a year for a checkup.
• DO keep the bird(s) toenails, wings trimmed and beak trim, for their own safety.
• DO give your bird playtime away from its cage every day.
• DO sanitize all new toys, cages, bowls, and perches before giving them to your bird!
• DO provide a cage that has more than ample space for the bird(s) to move around and flap its wings or buy the largest cage you can afford.
• DO remember your bird(s) are your companion for life. Take responsibility for your bird(s) seriously, they do depend on you to take care of them.
• DO keep a close watch on your bird(s) with children, strangers, and other animals and do not leave your bird unsupervised.
• DO remember that your bird(s) are as comfortable with people as people are with them.
• DO inspect toys every day for frayed rope, sharp objects, broken pieces and etc.

The Don’ts

• Don’t concentrate on bad behavior. If you cannot address bad behavior immediately then don’t address it at all.
• Don’t reward bad behavior with treats, no treats should be given at least 20 minutes after bad behavior.
• Don’t use water or physical hitting as punishment.
• Don’t place toys in the middle or in the front of the door opening.
• Don’t during the winter skip misting, humidity is very important to tropical birds and when you run your heater in your home it dries out the air. (same with air conditioner)
• Don’t take your bird outside unprotected or leave your bird outside unobserved.
• Don’t take your bird outside without its wings trimmed and inside a carrier, cage or on a flight leash. All it takes is a gust of wind, something to spook or scare the bird one time to take off. The wind current can still carry a bird, even though its wings are clipped and if a bird gets to a tree the instinct is to climb to the top of the tree.
• Don’t leave the toilet seat up if you are going to allow your bird to fly free in your home; they can’t swim and will drown.
• Don’t use sandpaper perch covers, grit, gravel or gravel paper. Grit is not necessary for parrots and can cause impaction of the digestive systems.
• Don’t use moth protectors, mite or lice spray anywhere that your bird can come in contact with them; they are TOXIC!
• Don’t smoke around your bird(s). Nicotine is deadly to birds. Not only does 2nd hand Smoke harm them, but you need to wash your hands very well because it comes through the pores of the skin of smokers’ hands and can cause the bird(s) to have a severe contact reaction or even death.
• Don’t cook with the bird on your shoulder or have the bird loose in the kitchen. This can be very dangerous.
• Do not use Febreeze products in any areas of the home that the bird will be able to touch – it is toxic to birds.
• Do not use any type of scented oils or heated scented oils in areas around the birds – this is also toxic.
• Do not have lit candles around your birds unless they are soy candles. These are the only candles that are safe around birds.
• Do not use Teflon or any kind of coatings on your pans. Teflon, etc. overheated will cause death in birds.
• Don’t buy toys with dog leash type clips or jingle bells. This is an injury waiting to happen. Toes can get caught very easily in these.
• Don’t have toys that have small rings that the bird(s) can put their heads through. They may choke and die, from trying to get their heads back out.
• Don’t use “S” hooks with birds that have strong beaks. They can open these up and do some serious harm to them, they can even cause death.
• Don’t use litter made of walnut shells or corncobs. It can cause life-threatening Impaction if ingested by birds. They also harbor fungal spores when soiled or wet. Newspaper is much safer.
• Don’t apply kwik-stop or other styptic products to avian skin. They are safe for bleeding toenails when broken or cut too short, but they destroy the skin. For broken or pulled blood feathers, either cornstarch or flour is safe. Aloe gel can be applied first to help the flour or cornstarch adhere to the wound and to help with pain and healing.
• Don’t use lead, zinc, copper, and iron. They can cause metal toxicities if ingested by birds. Some sources are house keys, (especially gold colored keys), galvanized wire, and lead-based paints, metallic paints, paint containing zinc, linoleum, vinyl mini-blinds, foil from champagne and wine bottles, lead weights, and bells with lead clappers, stained glass, some improperly glazed ceramics, costume jewelry, mirror backing, copper pennies, zinc oxide, artist paints containing cadmium, and cardboard or paper with high gloss inks. Aviary wire treated with zinc is also dangerous.
• Don’t handle or touch a bird if you or know somebody who is having chemotherapy treatments. The radiation can be transferred thru the bird’s skin and can be deadly.

First Aid and Your Pet Bird

If you keep enough birds long enough, eventually an emergency will arise.

No matter how careful you are, sometimes situations arise that will require you to take immediate, sometimes lifesaving action.

The number one safety precaution in a bird home is to have an avian veterinarian who has seen your bird(s) for a normal wellness exam. You don’t want to be calling fellow bird club members or friends at the time of an emergency to find a qualified avian veterinarian. You will waste valuable time that may potentially save your pet from permanent damage or even death.

This list is by no means complete, but this document discusses the most common accidents/chronic disease and information you can refer to in the case of an accident.

ACUTE RESPIRATORY PROBLEMS

Signs of labored breathing (huffing and puffing) may include any or all of the following: open-mouthed breathing, frequent sneezing, wheezing, clicking sounds, tail bobbing (especially budgies and cockatiels) or a constantly outstretched neck. There may also be discharge from the nares and the area around the eyes (the sinuses) may be swollen. The bird may vomit, shiver, be anorexic, have diarrhea, lethargy, weakness, ruffled feathers or swollen abdomen.

WHAT TO DO

Any respiratory problem should be considered an emergency and the bird should be taken to the vet immediately. Until you get the bird to the vet, keep it warm and use a vaporizer near the cage so the bird can ingest ward, moist air. Do not wait overnight. An avian veterinarian will know this is an emergency and would never ask you to come the next day. If you notice acute respiratory problems at night or on the weekend and your vet isn’t open, you need to get to an emergency vet service immediately.

AIR SAC RUPTURE

Birds have a series of air sacs located internally. These are in the neck area (cervical air sacs), the chest (thoracic air sacs) and in the belly (abdominal air sacs). These areas are part of a bird’s breathing system and help the bird receive oxygen from the air in a highly efficient manner. They also help provide the lightness and buoyancy needed for flight. Occasionally, one of these air sacs may rupture (usually due to injury) and air will leak from the sac and accumulate under the bird’s skin. This condition is known as subcutaneous emphysema. This accumulation must be removed, or the air sac may tear even further.

WHAT TO DO

Clean the skin over the swelling with a disinfectant on a cotton ball. Take small scissors or a needle and make a tiny hole in the skin. This allows the air to escape. This may need to be done several times before the air is released. It has been shown that air sacs normally repair themselves within two weeks. However, if you see no improvement within a day or two, your avian veterinarian should see the bird. It is probably a good idea to have the bird seen anyway.

ANOREXIA (Loss of Appetite)

A bird’s metabolic rate is very high, requiring almost constant intake. If you notice your bird is not eating as much as it normally does, or refuses food altogether, the situation is serious. Your avian veterinarian should exam your small bird if it hasn’t eaten for 12 hours. A large bird that has not eaten for 24 hours also should be seen immediately. A longer time frame than that may prove to be fatal.

WHAT TO DO

Try feeding the bird anything – peanut butter, yogurt, baby food, whatever its favorite food is – even if it’s sunflower seeds – just get it to eat. If you have hand feeding formula available, mix some up, keeping it slightly liquid, and try to hand feed. If that doesn’t work keep the bird warm and get to the vet as soon as possible.

BLEEDING

Blood anywhere on the bird or its cage is cause for immediate investigation. Birds do not have a large volume of blood and any blood loss can be detrimental or even fatal to a bird.

WHAT TO DO

The first thing to do is find the source of the bleeding. Pour hydrogen peroxide on the area you think is bleeding. It will remove the old blood and you will be able to readily see where the bleeding is coming from. Handle your bird gently and calmly. Birds feel your stress, so the more stressed you become; the more stressed the bird will also become. Have styptic powder, cornstarch or flour available at all times. Secure the bleeding area with styptic powder, cover and use gentle pressure to hold the area for at least three minutes (no peeking). After the bleeding has stopped, observe the bird for at least an hour to make sure the bleeding does not restart. If bleeding has not stopped after one hour of treatment, a trip to the vet is mandatory. If any signs of listlessness, weakness, paralysis or respiratory distress are noted, a vet trip is mandatory. If the bleeding continues on the way to the vet, have someone else drive so the passenger can apply pressure to the bleeding area.

BLOOD FEATHERS

A blood feather is a feather in the process of growing in. It has a nerve and blood supply. Occasionally, a blood feather will break and bleed profusely. These feathers must be pulled out completely or they will continue to bleed and the bird will die from loss of blood and stress.

WHAT TO DO

Use sturdy tweezers, a hemostat or a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Grasp the feather firmly and pull it out, always applying pressure in the direction in which the feather is growing. Take care not to pull out the feather follicle. If you see blood oozing from the feather follicle after pulling out the feather, apply styptic powder or use direct pressure on the site (three minutes, no peeking). Keep the bird quiet and warm. Watch for continued bleeding, as outlined above.

BITE WOUNDS, CUTS, ABRASIONS

Bite wounds, cuts, and abrasions are usually a result of trauma, but can also be caused by self-mutilation.

WHAT TO DO

Stop the bleeding as referenced above. Dirt and/or feather debris can be removed with small tweezers. Clean the area with a disinfectant (hydrogen peroxide, nolvasan, betadine, etc.). Keep the bird warm and quiet. Watch for signs of shock or infection. If there is even the smallest doubt as to the seriousness of the injury, see your avian vet. If it is a case of self-mutilation, seeing your vet is mandatory. A biopsy may be needed and most certainly antibiotics in case of infection. There may also be a need to use anti-anxiety drugs once the reason for the mutilation is found. Note: One wound, which should always be seen immediately by your avian vet, is a cat bite. Cats transmit a bacterium called Pasteurella. Birds are very susceptible to it and can die within 24 hours of Pasteurella septicemia. Birds will need to be put on antibiotic therapy immediately after the cat bite to ensure the infection does not spread throughout the body.

BLOOD IN THE STOOL

Whether it is bright red or tar-like (black) in color and consistency, blood in the stool always indicates a serious condition. An avian vet should see the bird as soon as possible. Keep the bird warm and quiet until you can get it to your vet.

BURNS

Burns may be caused by flame, electricity, hot grease or hot water, by a base such as muriatic acid, or by a chemical, such as household chlorine bleach. There are three categories of burns:

1. Superficial – damage to the skin, swelling, redness, and blisters. Feathers may be singed, but still attached.
2. Partial thickness – much more loss of skin than in Group 1. Severe redness and swelling, dry, tan crust will follow. Feather may remain intact, the skin will slough off before healing can occur.
3. Full-thickness – entire skin destroyed. Feathers fall out. Lesions may be black or pearly white. Healing will not occur without grafting.

WHAT TO DO

Spray or flush the area with cool water. If an acid had caused the burn, apply a thin coat of baking soda paste to the area. If a base has caused the burn, the area can be treated with vinegar. Never use ointment or butter on a burned area. If the burn has been caused by hot grease, sprinkle the area liberally with flour or cornstarch before rinsing with cool water (make sure to keep away from eyes and nose). This helps to “soak up” the grease so it is easier to remove.

EGG BINDING

This is a potentially life-threatening situation. If the egg is lodged against the bones of the hen’s pelvis, her kidneys could be crushed, causing her to go into shock and die. Another consequence can be that the compression of the outlets of the ureters can lead to the hen not being able to pass urine or feces, also causing the bird’s death. Signs of egg binding include weakness, abdominal swelling, squatting and straining, paralysis or weakness in the legs, breathing difficulty, fluffed feathers, visualizing the egg at the outlet of cloaca, red mass of tissue protruding from cloaca (prolapse).

WHAT TO DO

Move the bird into a warm, steamy environment such as a bathroom with the shower turned on or place the bird in a hospital cage with the temperature set at 85 – 90 degrees and 60 percent humidity. Or use a vaporizer and heating pad to get the same results as above, making sure you do not cook the bird with the vaporizer and heating pad. Dried milk or ground cuttlebone dissolved in water, to which a few drops of Karo syrup have been added (or granulated sugar). These treatments should be continued for no longer than 12 hours for a large bird and no more than 3 to 4 hours for a small bird. If the egg has not been passed in that time, a trip to the vet is necessary. Do not try to remove the egg yourself. If the egg cracks while you are trying to remove it, the bird will probably die from septicemia. Removing the egg is a job for the vet.

FOREIGN OBJECT IN EYE

Often a small piece of seed hull or feather chaff may get lodged in a bird’s eye.

WHAT TO DO

Place a very small amount of sterile ophthalmic ointment or sterile KY Jelly on the eye. It will do an excellent job of soothing irritated tissues and “float” out the object. If the bird has not experienced relief in 2 to 3 hours, a trip to the vet is necessary.

FRACTURES

Wrap the bird loosely with soft toweling to prevent movement of wings and legs. Keep the bird warm and quiet. A trip to the vet is necessary.

HEATSTROKE

The ultimate concern in the first aid of heatstroke is to get the bird’s body temperature lowered immediately.

WHAT TO DO

1. Spray the feathers with alcohol (keeping away from bird’s face) or cold water. Alcohol will last longer on the feathers. Be sure the feathers are wet right down to the skin.
2. Place the bird in an air-conditioned room or in front of a fan.
3. Immerse the bird’s feed in cold water or place cold water, a few drops at a time, in the bird’s vent with a syringe or dropper to help lower internal temperature rapidly.
4. If the bird is conscious, allow it to drink – or give it manually – a few drops of water at a time.

There is always the danger of shock following heatstroke. Water the bird carefully – when its panting has lessened and it appears more alert and comfortable to prevent chills. Keep it quiet and get it to the vet immediately.

LEG BAND PROBLEMS

If the bird has caught its leg on the cage wire, do not attempt to disentangle it by yourself. Have someone else support the bird while you take a pair of wire cutters, cut off the wire holding the leg band, and immediately transport the bird to the vet to remove the leg band and wire. It is very easy to cut off the bird’s leg or foot with the wire cutters. If that happens, the bird will most likely die of shock and pain.

POISONING

Take the bird immediately to the vet. If you know what the bird got into, take the whole bottle, jar, etc., with you.

SHOCK

Signs of shock in birds are: Feathers fluffed, listlessness, rapid breathing, weakness, the skin of legs and feet are cool to the touch, unconsciousness.

WHAT TO DO

Shock requires immediately attention. Keep the bird warm and quiet. Handle the bird as little as possible. If you can, attempt to get it to take a high-calorie electrolyte solution (Pedialyte or Gatorade are two good ones). Avoid sudden movements while handling the bird. Notify the vet that you are on your way and go immediately

First Aid and Your Pet Bird

It is a good idea to have a first aid kit put together in case of an emergency

• Eye Irrigation Solution
• Tweezers
• Hemostat
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Human Toenail Clipper
• Dog Toenail Clipper
• Cotton Balls
• Q-Tips
• Styptic Powder
• Gauze Squares
• Vet Wrap (self-adhesive wrap you can get from your vet)
• Triple Antibiotic Ointment
• Towel
• Alcohol
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Bottle of Pedialyte or Gatorade

It is also a good idea to have a heating pad available and a small aquarium or something similar in case you need to keep the bird warm in a confined area, for instance, if they go into shock or contract a respiratory infection.

Guidelines for Cage Size and Bar Spacing

The following are minimum guidelines only. In most cases, the larger the cage you can get, the better. Remember, your bird will spend a good deal of time in his/her cage (sometimes all the time) so it needs to be as spacious as possible.

Even though some birds are quite small, most are active and need the exercise afforded by a large cage to be healthy and happy. Also remember that birds with long tails need taller cages, to make sure they can get around their cage and not damage their tails.

Bar spacing is also important because inappropriate bar spacing can result in injury to your bird. Below are general guidelines for cage size and bar spacing for some common pet birds.

*Doves need daily flight time so should either be kept in a flight cage or given daily flight time outside of the cage. With time outside of the cage for exercise, diamond doves can be kept in a cage 24” x 24” x 24” with bar spacing of no more than 1/2” and ringneck doves in a slightly larger cage, 36” x 24” x 24”. Pigeons are most often kept in outdoor flights but if kept indoors need a large cage and flight time as well.

Top 10 Common Foods that Can Poison Your Bird

Because birds are such social creatures, many owners allow their pets to be included at mealtime. While sharing food with your bird is a lot of fun – not to mention wonderful for your pet’s emotional health – there are many common human foods that can be harmful or even fatal to your bird. Owners need to know which foods are fine for sharing, and which pose a serious risk. Read on to find out the top ten foods that are hazardous to your bird’s health.

1. Chocolate:Chocolate is a wonderful treat to share with human family members, but it can be harmful or fatal to your pet bird. Chocolate poisoning first affects a bird’s digestive system, causing vomiting and diarrhea. As the condition progresses, the bird’s central nervous system is affected, first causing seizures and eventually death.
2. Apple Seeds:Believe it or not, apples – along with other members of the rose family including cherries, peaches, apricots, and pears – contain trace amounts of Cyanide within their seeds. While the fruit of the apple is fine for your bird, be aware that in addition to the poisonous seeds, there may be pesticides present on the fruit’s skin. Be sure to thoroughly cleanse (or buy Organic) and core any apple pieces that you share with your bird to avoid exposure to these toxins.
3. Avocado:The skin and pit of this popular fruit had been known to cause cardiac distress and eventual heart failure in pet bird species. Although there is some debate to the degree of toxicity of avocados, it is generally advised to adopt a “better safe than sorry” attitude toward them and keep guacamole and other avocado products as far away from pet birds as possible.
4. Onions:While the use of limited amounts of onion or garlic powders as flavorings is generally regarded as acceptable, excessive consumption of onions causes vomiting, diarrhea, and a host of other digestive problems. It has been found that prolonged exposure can lead to a blood condition called hemolytic anemia, which is followed by respiratory distress and eventual death.
5. Alcohol:Although responsible bird owners would never dream of offering their pet an alcoholic drink, there have been instances in which free roaming birds have attained alcohol poisoning through helping themselves to unattended cocktails. Alcohol depresses the organ systems of birds and can be fatal. Make sure that your bird stays safe by securing him in his cage whenever alcohol is served in your home.
6. Mushrooms:Mushrooms are a type of fungus, and have been known to cause digestive upset in companion birds. Caps and stems of some varieties can induce liver failure.
7. Tomato Leaves:Tomatoes, like potatoes and other nightshades, have a tasty fruit that is fine when used as a treat for your bird. The stems vines, and leaves, however, are highly toxic to your pet. Make sure that any time you offer your bird a tomato treat it has been properly cleaned and sliced, with the green parts removed, so that your bird will avoid exposure to any toxins.
8. SaltWhile all living beings need regulated amounts of sodium in their systems, too much salt can lead to a host of health problems in birds, including excessive thirst, dehydration, kidney dysfunction, and death. Be sure to keep watch over the amount of salty foods your bird consumes.
9. Caffeine:Caffeinated beverages such as soda, coffee, and tea are popular among people – but allowing your bird to indulge in these drinks can be extremely hazardous. Caffeine causes cardiac malfunction in birds, and is associated with increased heartbeat, arrhythmia, hyperactivity, and cardiac arrest. Share a healthy drink of pure fruit or vegetable juice with your bird instead – this will satisfy both your bird’s tastebuds and nutritional requirements.
10. Dried Beans:Cooked beans are a favorite treat of many birds, but raw, dry bean mixes can be extremely harmful to your pet. Uncooked beans contain a poison called hemaglutin which is very toxic to birds. To avoid exposure make sure to thoroughly cook any beans that you choose to share with your bird.
11. Fava Beans:
12. Rhubarb:stalk and leaves

Top 10 Household Dangers to Pet Birds

1. Poisoning:Birds are susceptible to a wide range of toxins which can injure or kill them either by ingestion or inhalation. One of the most common toxicities in pet birds is insecticides sprayed in the home. Others include ammonia, bleach, oven cleaner, glues, nail polish remover, paint, perfumes, heavy metals (i.e., lead and zinc). Poisonous plants are also a danger.
2. Non Stick Coatings:This technically falls under poisoning but warrants a special mention because use of these products is very common. When overheated, the non-stick coating emits fumes that are very toxic and will kill birds. This coating is found on non-stick cookware but also waffle irons, bread machines, irons, ironing board covers, curling irons, space heaters, blow dryers and more.
3. Open Water:Toilets are the most common source of open water in the house, and it is all too easy for your pet bird to fall in and drown. Other water sources to watch for are sinks, bathtubs, buckets and water bowls of dogs/cats. The kitchen can also be a dangerous place if there are hot pots of water on the stove.
4. Inappropriate Foods:These range from those that are just unhealthy to those that might kill pet birds. Anything high in sugar or salt is inappropriate, as are fatty foods. More serious are things such as chocolate, which is toxic to many pets. Caffeinated or alcoholic beverages are also dangerous. Avocado should also be avoided.
5. Electrical Cords:Birds explore with their beaks, and exposed electrical cords pose a danger if bitten. Keep cords and appliances away from the bird cage, and conceal cords as much as possible. Covering exposed cords with corrugated plastic tubing (available at hardware stores) may help reduce the danger.
6. Poorly Made Toys:Even toys designed for parrots may not be safe for them. Make sure your parrots (especially larger ones) are not able to break off or remove any parts and swallow them. Rope toys can also be dangerous if they are long enough to get tangled up in, and there have been cases of parrots separating the strands on braided ropes, inserting their heads, and strangling as a result.
7. Ceiling Fans:Ceiling fans are a real danger to flighted birds – serious injuries and death has occurred when birds fly into them. Birds tend to be nervous with things moving above them, so may be stressed out by a ceiling fan running near their cage.
8. Windows, Doors and Mirrors:Windows and mirrors pose a danger to birds that might fly into them. Even birds with clipped wings can fly into a window, door or mirror. Of course, open windows and doors are a means for escape. Interior doors can be risky if the bird likes to sit on the top of an open door – the bird could be injured or killed if the door is closed.
9. Other Pets:While birds often live happily with other household pets, owners should always be careful when other pets are near the birds. The motion of birds can set off the prey instinct of cats or dogs, and an infected bite or scratch can quickly be fatal to a bird.
10. Air Quality:Birds are especially sensitive to contaminants in the air. Aerosol products of any kind should not be used around your bird. Cigarette smoking has been implicated in respiratory disease in pet birds. Carbon monoxide is also dangerous, so use a carbon monoxide detector in your home, and be careful not to run your car in an attached garage.

The maintenance of healthy stock in captivity requires an understanding of their psychological as well as their physical requirements. Stock should be kept in a well-managed aviary where a practical and informed approach to the basic principles of husbandry and stock management is followed. Losses due to infectious and parasitic disease, nutritional inadequacies and trauma will then be found to be negligible. The design, construction material, siting and general environment within and surrounding an aviary will have a direct influence on the well-being of its inhabitants. The aviary must provide an environment which affords protection from all predators and inclement weather, yet it is essential to allow access to fresh air, rain, and sunshine.

The ideal aviary design incorporates both open and enclosed areas where birds can choose either the well ventilated sunlit area or the enclosed protected area where refuge and privacy are available. Aviaries must be large enough to allow birds to escape from continual disturbances from outside and also prevent stress from overcrowding inside.

The aviary must have adequate perches: the use of smooth, same diameter spherical dowels which are commonly used as perch material is not recommended as they can cause foot deformities as the birds are always grasping in the same fashion with the same curvature of their feet. The smoothness of these dowel perches does not provide enough friction and stimulation to the epithelium of the feet, which lead to the development of feet abnormalities and calluses.

The perches should be of tree branches and of various diameters, which will help simulate the natural environment and maintain healthy feet. They should also be located far enough apart to allow maximum flight for exercise, but should not be placed too near the ends of the aviary, so birds rub against the wire or walls as they turn, and so positioned to stop alighting on the wire at the end of the flight, as this damages feathers.

Aviaries should be constructed in such a manner as to exclude rats, mice, wild bird, cats and other predators. The ideal aviary should be double wired meshed, the outer wire mesh being one centimeter square, the wire should be buried to a depth of 25cm in the ground or sunk into a 25cm concrete foundation to prevent rats, mice and predators from burrowing into the flight under the mesh. The mesh should also be covered to a minimum height of 75cms from ground level to prevent the birds on the floor of the flight being traumatized by prowling cats or other predators

The internal wire skin should be located a minimum of 5cm from the external wire mesh and should be of the appropriate wire thickness and mesh size depending on the species of parrots being kept, for example you would not keep large cockatoos or macaws in an aviary made with an internal wire mesh size of 16 swg 5cm square wire.

A covering of chicken wire suspended 20 to 30cms above the roof of the flight will help prevent cats and birds of prey coming into close contact with the aviary occupants. Death from trauma is probably one of the most common individual causes of death in aviary kept species. Predators such as cats, owls and birds of prey, easily frighten aviary stock but rats and mice may startle birds into panic or flight, the resulting outcome being severe trauma or even being killed or injured from flight into the aviary mesh.

Lead based paints on wire and walls of the aviary must be avoided as cases of lead poisoning have been reported. Certain galvanized wire may contain high levels of toxic materials in the galvanized finish. Many aviculturalists insist on “weathering” new wire before constructing aviaries from it. This means that the wire is left out in the open for up to twelve months before it is used in the construction of an aviary. Such toxic metals are either detoxified or leached out of the coating in this time.

Aviary floors must be easily cleaned, well drained and must not provide a good environment for parasites. A concrete base covered in a layer of clean earth, sand or gravel is probably the most natural and successful substrate, as the covering materials can be completely replaced periodically and the concrete base pressure washed down and disinfected.

Every effort should be made to make the aviary a pleasant environment for the birds kept. A bare uninteresting aviary will lead to birds being bored and depressed. Both dust and water baths should be provided. These activities are part of the normal grooming routine and play an important role in control of external parasites and feather condition.

Wooden walls, perches and aviary support structure often provide an environment in cracks and crevices for parasites to hide. Special care should be taken to treat such areas with insecticides and disinfectants from time to time.

A common cause of feather plucking, both from self-mutilation and aviary mates is boredom. A fresh supply of cut branches with leaves and buds intact hung in the aviary will often provide the sensory stimulation which helps maintain the birds’ psychological health. Plants poisonous to the parrot species, must be avoided.

Overcrowding, mixing aggressive or territorial species and maintaining incorrect sex ratios within species will create problems. Inter- and Intra-species aggression will lead to injury or death of the less dominant individuals. Birds which are consistently aggressive, can often be subdued by the clipping of the flight feathers of one wing thus modifying their behaviour; this could leave this bird disadvantaged and hence open to attack from other birds in the flight. Segregation of species into one pair per flight is the only answer.

Feeding and watering points must be well distributed to ensure all birds, particularly the subordinate individuals, can eat and drink their requirements. Food and water dishes should be protected from direct sun. Contamination from birds within the flight and wild birds must be avoided.

Nest boxes (located in different locations within the flight) are best left in all year round so that when the birds are ready for breeding they are able to find a suitable site for breeding.

The fact that most parrot species spend most of their time off the ground may lead the uninitiated to forget that hygiene in captive birds is of the utmost importance in the management of all aviary stock.

Faecal contamination of perches, floors, water and food containers, roosting and nesting areas will predispose to transmission of pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses, protozoa and helminths. Where natural branches are used as perches they can be replaced periodically.

Aviaries should be thoroughly cleaned at regular intervals, preferably at least once weekly. A detergent disinfectant should be used on all solid surfaces and perches. Old branches can be replaced with new. Common bacterial pathogens will be readily eliminated if this routine is followed. Floors are best raked or swept daily to remove faeces and litter. Most pathogenic micro-organisms thrive in dark, damp areas where sunlight is unable to penetrate; these conditions and areas must be eliminated.

Insecticide spray of the less toxic type (e.g. pyrethrins) can be sprayed into corners, nest boxes and crevices in woodwork which will help retard the spread of ectoparasites. The more potent insecticides can be used sparingly on the underside and end of perches and woodwork to provide a residual insecticide action.

It is also recommended that a vet or experienced person treats your parrots for internal worms. This treatment is usually carried out twice a year, the first treatment to be administered prior to the breeding season.

Food and drinking water containers should be positioned off the ground and should not be placed beneath the bird’s flight path or under perches. This ensures faecal contamination by either rodents or the aviary birds is kept to a minimum. Containers for food and water should be located in a couple of positions so all birds have access to them and faecal contamination is restricted. All containers should be emptied and cleaned daily.

Some aviculturalists go to great lengths to sterilize their aviaries and fittings, even to the extent of using blowlamps and gas torches to scorch all surfaces. Regular weekly cleaning with antiseptics, the use of insecticides combined with the removal of litter will achieve the same results.

The removal and isolation of any bird suspected of harbouring infectious agents, also birds which are not alert and active, is imperative if the spread of disease is to be prevented. The ideal isolation area should be heated to a temperature of 25 to 30 degrees centigrade, away from all other birds, quiet and sheltered from all disturbances. Birds can be monitored closely and medicated in such an area. Birds isolated for health reasons should not be reintroduced to the aviary until faecal cultures are negative for pathogenic bacteria or clinical signs of the disease have been undetectable for 7 – 10 days.

A detailed examination for ectoparasites, physical deformities, behavioural abnormalities should be conducted prior to acquisition. Sight of the parents and aviaries bred in is also desirable, what foods etc have been fed?

All new purchases should be put in the isolation area, which is most useful in allowing the new specimens, which often have been subjected to a stressful experience to settle down and acclimatize to their new environment. Faecal examination for protozoa, nematodes and cestodes should be performed within the first few days and appropriate treatment given.

During this isolation period, food preferences and consumption can be assessed. New feeding techniques can be introduced. It is not uncommon for birds to die of malnutrition or dehydration when introduced to a new environment, only because the aviculturalist has not taken the care to observe that the new specimen is not eating or drinking. A wide variety of seeds and food in separate containers must be available for new specimens and observations made as to which seeds and foods they eat.

The Zoonotic aspects of avian disease must also be considered as an important reason for the isolation of new stock, as there are several diseases that can be transmitted from birds to humans, so recognition and identification of any such infections in new stock is of prime importance to the health and well being of the aviculturist. Certain zoonotic diseases are notifiable by law to the authorities. The following is a list of diseases, which can be transmitted to humans: – Salmonellosis, Colibacillosis, and Psittacosis (Ornithosis), of which only the latter is notifiable in the UK, and then only in certain restricted areas.

The Nutritional requirements of parrots change throughout the various stages of their lives. The aviculturist must be aware of these specific requirements and provide the special food items, as they are required. There are also wide species differences in dietary requirements.

Infertile eggs, failure to hatch, poor growth in youngsters and specific nutritional deficiencies will occur in poorly managed stock.

If food of the correct nutritional composition, form and digestibility is not provided for youngsters, nutritional deficiency diseases will occur. Abnormal feeding habits acquired at this young age may affect the bird for the rest of its life.

The youngsters are born usually naked and blind and are fed entirely by the parents for several weeks, depending on species. During this period a variety of special foods, which can easily be converted to “baby food” by the adults, must be provided. Supplements of seeding grasses and plants, fruit, and in some species insect larvae are essential for successful breeding. Total food supply during this period must be increased, as the adult birds must eat enough for their own needs as well as for their growing youngsters.

The total energy requirements for the hens is greater during the breeding season, therefore larger amounts of protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals are required An egg-producing hen could have a negative calcium balance, and is recommended that a supplementary source of calcium be supplied. Cuttlefish bone is a commonly offered source of calcium, but is inefficiently absorbed. More readily available soluble calcium supplements are better, especially when an immediate effect is required. Water-soluble multivitamin can also be supplied in the drinking water

The maintenance of non-breeding adults or single birds depends on activity, ambient temperature and stage of moult. During moult, birds have a higher protein requirement because of the production of new feathers.

A variety of seeds, fresh budding branches, green foods, fruit, chicken bones, insect larvae, proprietary crumbles, mineral blocks, home made mixtures, cooked eggs, and honey, should always be made available, which should easily maintain stock in peak condition.

Natural chalk blocks and mineral blocks will assist in maintenance of beak wear and thus will help prevent overgrown beaks, an eye must also be kept for overgrown toe nails as this can also be a problem in captive stock.

An informed and practical approach to preventive medicine in an aviary is usually associated with successful management, quarantine, predator control, hygiene, nutrition and proper environment considerations. Intestinal parasites can only be successfully controlled by routine faecal inspection and the appropriate regular treatment. If care is taken not to introduce new birds into an aviary before a period of quarantine, very few infectious or parasitic problems will be encountered.

The wild population of birds will introduce pathogens to an aviary from faecal contamination through the wire mesh, but prompt action to isolate and treat the infected birds and aviary will help prevent an epidemic within your stock. It is good practice to have a post mortem carried out on birds, which die from unknown causes.

The main causes of sudden death in aviaries are, (a) Trauma through aggression or externally induced panic, (b) Cold or Heat Stress, (c) Acute infection.

Record keeping: it is essential to maintain detailed records on each bird kept such as age, sex, ring number, purchase cost, date purchased, name and address of person who sold you the bird, whether wild caught or captive bred, mated to, aviary number, types of food and supplements given, health, breeding, reproductive performance and if sold name and address of purchaser. It is good custom and practice to give the purchaser a copy of such a record. Data stored in this way is of untold value in tracing the history of nutritional, hereditary, health or environmental problems.

It is essential prior to the purchase of new stock to view the birds in their existing flights and in the case of young birds also with the parents, the seller should be requested to supply detailed records on the birds being purchased. It is very unwise to purchase birds via the telephone or an advert without seeing the environment they have been kept in. Many complaints are received from gullible people who have been sold a bird in this manner and found out on receipt that the bird is not as described on the phone/advert etc. These people then expect others to sort out the mess which was self inflicted.

Preparing a Parrot Home

Obtain a proper cage. Square or rectangular cages are more appropriate for parrots; they feel unsafe in round cages that do not have corners. Ensure your cage is large enough for your parrot to climb and move comfortably in. Cages should have enough room for perches, toys, food bowls, water bowls, and rest areas. Choose the size of your parrot cage based on the size of your parrot:

• A minimum of approximately: 24″ W x 24″ H x 24″ D for smaller parrots
• A minimum of approximately 5 ft W x 6 ft H x 3½ ft D for larger parrots
• Bar spacing: 1/2″ for smaller parrots
• Bar spacing: 4″ for larger parrots

Place the cage in a room where he can interact. Parrots are social creatures. In the wild, they stay with a flock and maintain constant contact with flock mates. If they are kept isolated they may develop separation anxiety. Parrots like being in rooms where their human flock hangs out.

• If you have other pets, you will want to keep your bird cage in a room that can be closed off while you are gone from the house. Be sure that you supervise your other pets around the bird, and keep them out of the room if they are causing stress to the bird.

Keep temperatures steady. Birds can tolerate a large range of temperature, but the ideal temperature for your parrot is between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid leaving your parrot in a chilly room or dropping your thermostat overnight during winter. Temperatures below 40 degrees can be dangerous for birds, especially thin ones. Plumper birds can develop heat stress to temperatures above 85 degrees. If you must keep your parrot in higher temperatures, be sure that there is plenty of air circulation.

Get your new parrot into its cage for the first time. First, close your doors and windows in case of the worst. Then, you’ll need to determine how friendly or aggressive your new parrot is. Open the carrier slowly and slowly bring your hand in toward the bird. If it isn’t reacting much, you can continue moving your hand toward it. But, if it is opening its beak and aggressively snapping toward your hand, you’ll need to use the second method here.

• For a non-aggressive bird, continue moving your hand toward it and aim your fingers (or arm, in the case of a large parrot) perpendicular to and slightly above the feet. If it already has been trained to step up, you can say “step up” and it will jump onto your fingers (or arm). Slowly take it out of the carrier and bring it to the cage. Aim the bird so that the cage perch runs parallel to your hand and slightly above its feet. It should step up onto the perch, and you can close the door and allow it to adjust to its new home for a while.
• For an aggressive parrot or one that doesn’t know how to step up, you’ll need to get a hold of him to get him in his cage. This will not affect your relationship; the parrot will get over this. You want to be sure and do this quickly though and not let him go; if he flies around the room his fear will escalate and he’ll be harder to catch. Ideally you should use your bare hand, but if you’re scared you can wear thin leather gloves or use a towel. Try to grab him by the neck just below the head (this is not only safer for not getting bit, but it also restricts his airflow less than grabbing his belly). However you get a hold of him, get him quickly to the cage without letting go.
• Regardless of the method you used to get him in the cage, give him some space for a while. It is likely he will eat and drink less than normal for a few days, but be sure he has access to familiar food and water. Allow him some time to calm down and adjust to his new home before interacting too much.

Feeding Your Parrot

Vary your parrot’s diet. Parrots need a varied diet with a broad range of nutritional value. They should ideally not be kept on a diet of seeds and pellets only, though the bird seed and pellet mixes at pet stores are good to use as the base for their diet. Here are some basics for supplementing the seed or pellet mixtures:

• Do feed fresh fruits and vegetables. Rinse them well just like you would if you were preparing them for people. Many parrots like grapes, bananas, apples, carrots, berries, greens, all varieties of cooked squash, peas, green beans, and more. Be sure to not overdo it on fruit because of sugar content.
• Some types of parrots, such as macaws, love to open the shells of nuts to get the meat out. Try giving your parrot pistachios, pecans, and macadamias.
• Do not feed parrots caffeine, alcohol, chocolate, sugary or salty snacks, greasy foods, raw or dry beans, rhubarb leaves, dill, cabbage, asparagus, eggplant or honey.
• Never give a parrot avocado or onions! Both are toxic to parrots. Avocado can cause immediate cardiac arrest and death in a parrot.

Feed the right amounts. Small and medium sized birds should have food and water containers that are at least 20 ounces. Large birds should have food and water containers that are at least 30 ounces. Weaned babies and small birds will need extra amounts of food because of their higher metabolisms and levels of activity

Have a container for water that’s large enough for your bird to bathe in. Birds will drink out of the same water they bathe in, and this is okay. Be sure not to put vitamin supplements in water even if the guidelines say to do this. The reasons are because birds don’t drink that much, so you don’t know how much they are getting, and because it can cause bacteria to form quickly in the water

Avoid cooking with non-stick pans and utensils. This is especially true if you keep your parrot in or near the kitchen. The chemicals used in non-stick cookware can be deadly to parrots when heated above a certain temperature.

• Second hand smoke is also very bad for parrots, just like it is for humans. Avoid smoking in the house if you smoke and have a parrot.
• Keeping Your Parrot Healthy

Tend to the cage bottom every two days. Remove any liners and replace them, and discard any shells, seeds, gravel, toys that are destroyed, etc. It is best to spot clean (clean up any mess that doesn’t require too much time – droppings on perches etc.) once a day.

Clean and change the food and water bowls every day. Remove the food and water bowls daily, clean them and replace them with fresh food and water.

• Remove foods that rot quickly, such as cooked beans, immediately after feeding. Parrots can be especially prone to infections from bacteria, so keeping the cage clean is an absolute necessity
• Be sure to use a bird-safe disinfectant for cleaning the cage weekly – these can be found at your local pet store. Regular human disinfectants can be too strong and can harm your bird
• Visit the vet on a regular schedule.Some parrots are completely healthy forever, however most of the time when your parrot encounters a health problem, it could have been solved with some preventative vet consultations. Make sure your veterinarian is one that sees birds specifically or you will be wasting your money. Annual wellness checkups should be planned.

Watch for health problems. A healthy parrot is alert to his surroundings, stays upright most of the time, and is active. If your parrot starts acting sick, see a veterinarian. Some signs of a sick parrot include:

• Deformed, receding, or ulcerated beak
• Difficulty breathing
• Stains around the eyes or nostrils
• Change in appearance or texture of stools
• Weight loss or loss of appetite
• Swollen eyes or eyelids
• Feather problems including chewing, plucking, or thinning
• Bowed head, lethargy, being overly quiet

Training and Socializing Your Parrot

Learn to approach the cage properly. In the beginning, approach your parrot’s cage slowly and without making any loud noises. You may also want to avoid eye contact in the beginning for a fearful bird, so he doesn’t feel singled out by a predator. If you find the parrot trying to bite you, thrashing around the cage, or making other drastic displays of discomfort to your presence, you’ll need to get him accustomed to you:

• Go back out of the room and out of sight. Start walking back in, and at the moment of the discomfort response, stop and stay where you are. Do not approach further and wait for him to calm down. Then begin walking closer. If he acts up again, stop and stay still until he calms down. You may need to do this frequently until you can get close to the cage.

Determine treats for your parrot. Training your parrot is a must for giving him the socialization he needs. To determine what foods are his favorite treats, try giving him a variety of nuts, fresh and dried fruits, and seeds. A new parrot may be unaccustomed to some of these foods, so give him a few days to determine which ones are favorites. Once you figure out a favorite, don’t serve it as part of daily meals and save it for training.

Use target training to get your parrot to come out of and return to the cage. The first step of target training is getting the parrot to eat treats from your hand. This may take a few seconds to a few weeks. Simply go to the side of the cage and have a treat in your hand. Wait for the parrot to come over and eat it.

• Once your parrot is comfortable eating treats from your hand, introduce the clicker. Begin clicking the clicker right before offering a treat from your hand. Do this every time, so that it becomes used to hearing the click before eating a treat.
• Use a target stick (chopstick or dowel) to get your parrot to move to certain areas of the cage. Begin by introducing the stick, allowing the parrot to move close to it, and deliver a click and a treat. Train the parrot to move toward the stick each time by delivering the click and the treat. If he becomes uninterested in the stick, he may be full and you should wait a while until he becomes hungrier to resume training.
• Use the target stick to teach your parrot to step up onto your hand or a handheld perch. Eventually you should be able to bring your parrot out of the cage to continue training and/or clean the cage.
• Keep all of your training sessions short (about 10 to 15 minutes each time) and only try to train once or twice a day
• Tame your parrot to allow you to pet him.Many parrots enjoy being pet and touched. The first place to start is with his beak. Once he is comfortable having your hand near his beak without trying to bite, you’ll know he is comfortable with you touching him. Bring your hand slowly near his beak. If he looks like he’s going to try to bite, stop immediately. Hold your hand still until he calms down. When you get your hand close to his beak without him trying to bite, take your hand away and give a treat.
• Do the same steps with touching his body. Move your hand toward his body slowly. If he seems irritated, stop and wait. Work up to being allowed to pet him. Once you’re able to pet him, give a treat.

Talk to your parrot. Some parrots are better “talkers” than others, but all parrots have the anatomical capability to mimic human speech. Regardless of how well your parrot learns to repeat you, talking to him is an important part of his emotional health, so be sure to talk to him often.

• Name certain things to him: when giving him certain types of food, you can say, “apple,” or “banana.”
• Associate certain words with your actions. When you walk into the room, say “Hello, Alex” (or whatever your name is) or “Good morning!” When you leave a room, say “Good-bye!” or “Good night.”
• Your parrot will also enjoy hearing you have a conversation (even if it’s with him and is mostly one-sided), hearing you sing, listening to the television while you watch it, or listening to music.
• Some parrots pick up many phrases, so be careful of cursing or yelling around him unless you want him to repeat unsavory language.
• Choose good toys for your parrot. Toys provide mental stimulation and relief from boredom. You should offer toys that have a variety of textures, colors, and sounds. It’s a good idea to rotate the toys weekly so your parrot doesn’t get bored of the same toys day in and day out. Here are some more things to keep in mind about parrot toys:
• Choose small, lightweight toys and mirrors for small birds.
• Larger birds like to manipulate thicker toy pieces with their beaks, tongues and feet.
• Birds love to chew. It is part of their natural behavior to tear things apart. Be sure to check the toys regularly for damage, and throw them away if they are cracked or could break into small pieces that could injure your parrot.

 Learn parrot body language. In general, a parrot with an upright stance and smoothed feathers is wary or frightened. Loose, slightly ruffled feathers indicate happiness. A bird sitting on one foot with puffed out feathers may not feel well. All feathers sticking as far out as possible usually mean he’s courting or getting ready to fight. Stretching out one wing and then the other, or a slight tail feather wagging, means he’s feeling happy and healthy. Some happy birds even wiggle their tongues or move their beaks up and down when they see something they like.

Reference-on request

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