EXOTIC PETS

Caring Tips for Pet Chameleons

March 20, 2022

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Chameleons are considered a somewhat challenging pet to own because they have very specific care requirements. However, if you have some experience of lizard keeping or you are up to the challenge, they can be fascinating and enthralling in equal measure.

These lizards should be kept alone and they typically need a large terrarium with a lot of foliage inside. They also need adequate lighting and heating, are fed live insects as well as leafy greens and supplements, and they usually prefer not to be held.

Care of Chameleons

The following is a brief summary of general chameleon care, husbandry, and medicine. It is not all conclusive, but does provide a framework of necessary information for the chameleon owner. As with any pet, proper husbandry and veterinary care are the most important factors in a long, healthy life. It isn’t hard to see why so many people fall in love with chameleons, and desire to keep them as pets. They are interesting, colorful animals that are unlike so many other animals. However, any prospective chameleon owner should realize that they are fragile in nature, and have some very specific needs. Without continual proper care, a pet chameleon can become very sick, very quickly.

COMMON NAME: Chameleon

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Chamaeleonidae

ADULT SIZE: Widely varies—27 inches at largest, and .5 inches at smallest

LIFE EXPECTANCY: 3 to 10 years in captivity

Origin and Species Variety

There are several species of “true” chameleon, many whose native habitats range from Yemen and Saudi Arabia southward to Madagascar and parts of eastern Africa. The most popular varieties kept as pets are the Veiled, Panther, and Jackson’s chameleons. Depending on their sex and species, they can grow up to 24 inches in length, live from 1 to 12 years old, and reach sexual maturity in about five months. Obviously, individuals that are kept in ideal conditions, with proper diet and veterinary care will live longer lives. While some species are from drier climates such as the veiled chameleon, others are from more tropical areas. Therefore, in order to properly care for your particular chameleon, do some research to learn more about its life in the wild.

You may have already noticed some of the traits that make true chameleons so unique. They have prehensile tails, and zygodactyl feet, which means their toes are grouped in opposition to each other. Their large, obtrusive eyes work independently of one another, allowing them to keep a watch out for predators and catch their food. Of course, they are able to change colors, depending on their emotions and health condition. These colors can have varying patterns, and can contain shades of green, white, blue, red, yellow, brown, orange, purple, and black.

Enclosure

A chameleon’s cage should be large enough to allow it adequate exercise and accommodate a three-dimensional “playground” of different diameter branches with leaves for cover. Cages should be taller than they are long, and made of material that is easily cleaned. Avoid placing the enclosure in drafty or busy areas of the house. As for foliage, ficus and pathos plants are commonly used since they can be eaten by adults. Hardwood branches provide good perches; do not use limbs from “sappy” trees such as pines. Give your pet enough cover inside his cage so that he can feel that he is hiding.

UV-B Spectrum Lighting

Perhaps the most common mistake of the novice chameleon owner is not realizing the absolute dependence of chameleons upon specific wavelengths of light. They require 12 hours of exposure per day to the “UV-B” spectrum of light. This spectrum (290-320nm) can be provided by special light bulbs or natural unfiltered sunlight (which is the best source). Bulbs specifically stating that they provide 5% or more UV-B spectrum should be used while the chameleon is indoors. Without this spectrum, they are unable to properly utilize calcium inside their body, regardless of how much they ingest. This condition, called metabolic bone disease, or secondary nutritional hyperparathyroidism, is probably the number one cause of fatalities and growth defects in captive chameleons. Note that most window glass panes filter out UV radiation. Owners should also be informed that UV-B lamps are generally good for about 6-8 months, but can still produce visible light without UV-B spectrum after this period of time. Therefore, bulbs should be changed after six months of use.

Heating

Reptiles are ectothermic, and require external sources of heat in order to carry out their metabolic processes. Certain body temperatures are necessary for digestion, reproduction, and feeding. The average chameleon requires a daytime temperature range from about 77-87° F, and a night temperature of 65-75 °F. Some good heat sources that can be used outside your chameleon’s enclosure (placed 12-24 inches from the cage walls) are 50-75 watt incandescent bulbs, ceramic heating elements (commercially made), or so-called “heat lamps”. There should be several horizontal branches nearby so that your pet can move closer or farther away from the heat source if it needs. The key is to set up an environment that provides a gradient of temperatures. Red light bulbs and ceramic elements can be used 24 hours per day, without affecting the chameleons’ daily light rhythms. Heat rocks or other heating elements under the cage or at the bottom of the cage are not recommended. Temperatures in different parts of the cage can be easily monitored by placing thermometers (available at pet stores) in a few places. Generally expert herpetologists will slightly decrease temperatures and light cycles in the winter months.

Water and Humidity

Chameleons drink water from droplets sitting on objects (usually leaves) in their surroundings. The most common way to provide these droplets is to use a dripping system. This can be easily fashioned by making a hole in the bottom of a bucket, plastic mild carton, or container just large enough that a drop of water will come from it every several seconds to few minutes, and fall on plant leaves within the enclosure. Another smaller container should be placed in the chameleon’s cage under the drip system to catch the water as it falls through the plant leaves. As a short term solution, ice cubes can be placed on the cage top to slowly drip water while they melt. Commercially-made drip systems or ultrasonic misting devices can also be purchased to be used in this regard. Misting the animal itself is controversial, as it seems to stress some individuals. The humidity in a chameleon’s cage should correspond to its native environment, and be monitored daily. The average humidity needs between the different species is 50-70%.

Diet

True chameleons are mostly carnivorous, which means that they rely on insects or other animals for food sources. They are able to eat a variety of insects, but are fed mostly cricket diets in captivity. However, crickets should not comprise more than 50% of the diet. As the saying goes, “you are what you eat”, so it is important that crickets being used as food also be fed a diverse nutritious diet. They can be fed commercial “gut-loading” food in addition to dark leafy greens (collards, kale, dandelion leaves, mustard greens), oats, broccoli, alfalfa hay, and other fruits and vegetables. Adding calcium supplement powder to the crickets’ diet is also recommended. One is unable to know if crickets obtained from a pet store have been fed recently. So, owners should make sure that crickets have eaten just before being given to their chameleons. Sprinkle calcium supplement powder on the prey items every other feeding. Other insects and larvae such as waxworms, earthworms, caterpillars, grasshoppers, flies, and like should be fed for diversity. Using a “sweep net” over a lawn or garden can catch a variety of bugs for you to use. Avoid beetles and the frequent feeding of mealworms, as they are not easily digested. Some larger species can be fed “pinkie” mice on occasion.

I recommend feeding your chameleon either by hand, or placing all its food items into a bowl so that your pet recognizes the bowl as its source of food. Of course, have a branch placed very close to the bowl so that the chameleon can get to the prey items. Some chameleons will eat vegetables (dark, leafy greens are best), and you can finely chop them up to place into the food bowl daily with the prey. Adults should be fed once per day, while juveniles require feedings several times per day. Provide each creature as much as it can eat in a single feeding. Do not leave insects in the enclosure for extended periods of time.

Substrate

Substrate or “bedding” is what is used to line the bottom of a cage or enclosure. The best substrate for chameleons is simple flat newspaper (cheap, recyclable, easily disposed). If a particulate or natural substrate is used avoid the following: beddings with small particles (sand, kitty litter, etc.), cedar, gravel, corn cob bedding, and beddings that would hold excess moisture. Moisture trapped in bedding can promote bacterial and fungal growth.

Stressors

Stress is a very common reason for poor health in chameleons. Common sources of stress are being placed in a cage with another chameleon, handling, noises, excessive traffic or movement outside of the enclosure, inappropriate temperatures, or changes in the environment. One should remember that these species are not domesticated, and even though they are captive bred, are still in their minds wild animals. If you are handling your chameleon, do not “put him on show” and allow several people to hold and touch it. Be very gentle when removing it from its enclosure.

Diseases

Like humans and other animals, chameleons can get sick from a variety of sources. They are susceptible to bacterial, fungal, and viral infections, and can harbor several different kinds of parasites as well. You can help these infections at bay by keeping the enclosure clean, removing uneaten prey items daily, and keeping your pet from coming into contact with another chameleon. If you already have a reptile at home, you should quarantine any new addition for at least 1-3 months time to avoid transference of disease from one individual to another.

Chameleons are sensitive to many chemicals and toxins in the environment, and should be kept away from household cleaners, aerosols, etc. As with any reptile, you should wash your hands after handling it or items within its enclosure (especially soiled bedding). There are diseases that can be transferred from reptiles from humans in this manner (Salmonella infection is one example), but proper hygiene should alleviate this risk. Other problems that can occur in chameleons include egg-binding, organ failure (especially kidney and liver), cancer, and bone fractures due to insufficient vitamin D, calcium, or UVB radiation.

Preventive Care

Your chameleon should be given a check-up by your veterinarian every 6-12 months. In addition, your veterinarian should perform a fecal examination annually to determine if there are gastrointestinal parasites present, and can prescribe the appropriate medications. Blood tests are recommended every 1-3 years to check for internal disease. Speak to your veterinarian about any concerns regarding your chameleon’s care.

Typical veiled chameleon appearance and behavior

Veiled chameleons can look in any direction without turning their heads or shifting body position because each eye can swivel nearly 180°
Their eyes can move independently (called monocular vision), so they can see two different directions at one time
They have very long tongues (sometimes twice as long as their body length) that they protrude to catch insects
Their toes are prehensile, meaning they can grasp branches for climbing
They use their prehensile tail to wrap around branches for stabilization as they climb
They are tree-dwellers and reside on branches and in plants exclusively
Veiled chameleons change color, depending on temperature and mood; they also change color to camouflage themselves when hiding
Males are generally larger and more vibrant and colorful than females; male veiled chameleons also have tarsal spurs on their hind feet
They have a horn-like bump on top of their heads called a casque that helps direct dripping water into their mouths for drinking
Veiled chameleons become highly stressed when handled; regular handling is not recommended

Veiled chameleon characteristics

Care Difficulty	Intermediate
Average Life Span	5+ years with proper care
Average Adult Size	18–24 inches long, depending on species
Diet	Omnivorous
Minimum Habitat Size	At least 2 feet in each dimension for juveniles; at least 3 feet in each dimension for adults

Habitat

Habitat size

Veiled chameleons will reach adult size in 9–12 months under ideal conditions; upgrade your habitat size as your reptile grows.

To accommodate normal behavior and exercise, select a habitat with an appropriate size and shape, preferably taller than wide, with screened sides. Chameleons do better in a well-ventilated habitat; rather than glass tanks, habitats constructed of mesh or screen are recommended to improve air flow and prevent mold from developing in the habitat

Building your habitat

Chameleons are arboreal (tree-climbing), so they need vertically oriented habitats with different levels for climbing to regulate their body temperature.

Substrate: Generally, substrate is not recommended for chameleon habitats, as it can get moldy from dripping water. Chameleons are also known for eating bedding that is in particles or chunks and developing gastrointestinal tract obstructions as a result; if bedding must be used, stick to reptile carpeting, coconut fiber or paper towels
Plants and décor: Create a dense area of nontoxic, real or plastic plants and vines (but not silk, which won’t absorb water) on one side for hiding; create a more open, exposed area of branches for basking on the other side. Live plants will help maintain habitat humidity, which is critical to keeping chameleons hydrated. When selecting branches, compare the width to the size of your chameleon’s feet to be sure they can grab onto the branches. Branches and vines also should have some horizontal sections for your chameleon to perch on easily
Temperature: Maintain a temperature gradient of 90–95°F on the warm end and 70°F on the cool end); use an incandescent light or ceramic heater as primary heat source. Ideally, the habitat temperature should not fall below 70°F at night.
Humidity: Maintain less than 60% humidity; mist plants as needed to provide water for your chameleons to drink, even if you have a dripper
Lighting: To ensure your reptile is making vitamin D in their skin so they can absorb calcium from their food, provide UVB rays with full-spectrum lighting for 10–12 hours a day. Place a horizontal branch approximately 6–8 inches below the UV bulb so your chameleon can while for basking. An incandescent day bulb can be used for the basking area during daylight hours only; use a ceramic heater or a nocturnal or red incandescent at all hours to help maintain temperature within recommended range. UV bulbs should be changed every 6 months to ensure adequate ongoing UV exposure as the potency of the bulb wanes.

Cleaning your veiled chameleon’s habitat

Thoroughly clean and disinfect the habitat at least once a week. To safely clean the habitat:

Place chameleon in an additional secure habitat or carrier
Scrub the tank and furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution
Rinse thoroughly with water to remove all traces of the reptile habitat cleaner or bleach smell
Dry the tank and furnishings completely
Add clean substrate (if you use substrate) and décor items back into the habitat before returning the chameleon to the habitat

Feeding

What to feed your veiled chameleon

A well-balanced veiled chameleon diet consists of:

A variety of insects, including gut-loaded crickets (recently fed with high-calcium foods, such as mustard greens, collard greens, squash and commercially available cricket diets), roaches, mealworms, hornworms, CalciWorms and waxworms
Dark, leafy green vegetables, such as collard greens, mustard greens and deep green lettuces, as well as live plants including pothos, hibiscus, dracaena, schefflera and ficus leaves

Things to remember when feeding your veiled chameleon

Chameleons will not drink water from a bowl. They rely on moisture on plants for water; mist plants 4–5 times daily for 2 minutes at a time so that leaves are saturated and dripping with water, or use an automatic mister or dripper to do the same. Misting systems also help maintain humidity
Do not offer insects that are larger than the width of your chameleon’s head
Juveniles should be fed once to twice a day; adults can be fed every other day
Alternate sprinkling food with a calcium supplement that contains vitamin D and one that does not, plus sprinkle food with a multivitamin supplement once a week
Vegetables not eaten within 12 hours should be discarded

Veiled chameleon care

Chameleons regularly shed their skin; ensure the habitat humidity is at an appropriate level to keep your chameleon hydrated to allow proper shedding. To facilitate shedding, be sure to mist your chameleon (avoiding their face) and the plants in the habitat several times a day.

Habitat mates for veiled chameleons

House adult veiled chameleons separately, as they are aggressive when housed together, and do not house different reptile species together. If juveniles are housed together, they must be the same size; significant size discrepancies can cause additional stress and potential aggression.

Veiled chameleon health

Signs of a healthy veiled chameleon

Active and alert
Clear eyes
Body and tail are filled out; ribs are not visible
Healthy skin (no scabs or crustiness)
Clear nose and vent
Eats and passes stool regularly

Red flags (if you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian)

Weight loss or decreased appetite
Inability to hold abdomen off ground/hunched posture
Mucus in mouth or nose
Swelling around eyes
Tongue hanging out of mouth
Obvious curvature or bowing of leg bones and/or spine
Lethargy
Bumps, sores or abrasions on skin
Labored breathing
Paralysis of limbs or decreased ability to grasp with toes
Abnormal feces
Nonrotating eye(s)

Common veiled chameleon health issues

Health Issue	Symptoms or Causes	Suggested Action
Gastro-intestinal disease	Runny stools, caked or smeared stool around the vent area and loss of appetite; can be caused by bacterial, viral or parasitic infection	Consult your veterinarian
Metabolic bone disease	Inability to absorb calcium due to insufficient UVB light or improper dietary calcium/vitamin D supplementation; if untreated, can lead to a disorder characterized by deformities, softened bones, fractures, swollen limbs, lethargy, decreased appetite, weight loss and death	Consult your veterinarian; provide ample UVB lighting and the proper amount of calcium and vitamin supplements
Respiratory disease	Labored breathing, decreased appetite, lethargy, mucus in the mouth or nose and/or bubbles from the eyes, nose or mouth; can be caused by a habitat maintained at an inappropriate temperature or inadequate humidity level	Consult your veterinarian; ensure habitat is the proper temperature and has adequate humidity
Low dietary vitamin A levels	Swelling around both eyes	Consult your veterinarian
Egg-bound female	Sitting on bottom of habitat, unable to climb, open-mouth breathing, refusal to eat, lethargy, sunken or closed eyes	Consult your veterinarian; ensure proper temperature and humidity, adequate calcium in diet and substrate depth that allows for digging to lay eggs

FAQs

What do veiled chameleons eat? Veiled chameleons eat insects (crickets, mealworms, Dubia roaches, hornworms, CalciWorms and waxworms) and vegetables (leafy greens).
How often should I feed my veiled chameleon?Juveniles should be fed 1–2 times a day, and adults should be fed every other day.
What vegetables can veiled chameleons eat?Veiled chameleons can eat leafy greens, including collard and mustard greens, as well as nontoxic plants, such as ficus and pothos.

4 things to know about chameleons

Experience Level: Advanced
Size: Chameleons can grow to be 18 inches (45 cm) long
Lifespan: Chameleons can live up to 5-7 years
Origin: The Veiled Chameleon originates from Saudi Arabia; the Jackson’s Chameleon is from East Africa

How do I set up a chameleon habitat?

Chameleons should be housed individually.

Choose a well-ventilated terrarium or screened enclosure that’s at least 16 x 16 x 30 inches.
Line the bottom of the habitat with reptile carpet, 2 to 3 inches of coconut fiber or reptile bark. Spot clean the floor material frequently and completely change it at least once a month.
Include rocks and real or artificial branches purchased from a store to elevate your pet—no closer than 8 inches—to the terrarium’s heat source. Branches should be sturdy and just slightly larger in diameter than the chameleon’s grip.

Heat & light

Help your chameleon regulate its body temperature by keeping the bottom of the habitat cool and the top warm. During the day, the cool area should be between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 27 Celsius), while the warm area should be between 80 and 85 F (27 to 29 C) for Jackson’s Chameleons, or 90 and 100 F (32 to 38 C) for Veiled Chameleons. Track the temperature of both areas of the habitat with separate thermometers.
At night, the overall habitat temperature should be between 65 and 70 F (18 to 21 C).
Every reptile requires a 12-hour light/dark cycle; a UVA/UVB fluorescent bulb will supply the rays your chameleon needs to properly absorb calcium.
The humidity level in your chameleon’s habitat should be between 65% and 80%. Track the moisture level with a hygrometer (a humidity gauge).
The habitat should also include an automatic fogger, mister or drip system.

What do chameleons eat?

Feed your chameleon crickets, or waxworms daily. Only offer as much as the chameleon can consume by the end of the day. Remove any leftovers.
Dust insects with a calcium supplement twice a week.
Veiled Chameleons should also get appropriate greens, such as collards or mustard greens, once daily. Offer only as much as the Veiled Chameleon can eat in 4 hours, then remove any leftovers.
Chameleons do not drink from a dish. Instead, they hydrate by licking water from their skin and habitat so be sure to mist the habitat regularly.

How can I keep my chameleon healthy?

Try not to handle chameleons for 3 to 4 days, while they adjust to their new home. If you notice any of the following signs during or after your chameleon’s settling-in period, contact a veterinarian or a PetSmart store associate:

Runny droppings for more than 2 days
Eating or drinking less; weight loss
Swollen joints
Discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth
Shedding problems; discolored skin
Increase in the amount of time spent hiding

PET SAFETY TIPS

Thoroughly wash your hands before contact with your chameleon.
Use caution when handling pets, and remember they may bite or scratch, especially when stressed.
Supervise children around pets.
All animals can carry viral, bacterial, fungal, and parasitic diseases that are contagious to humans. Thoroughly wash your hands with warm, soapy water after contact with any pet, its habitat, or aquarium water. Adults should assist children with hand-washing.

Different Species of Chameleon

There are several species of chameleons that are popular as pets. Here are a few options to consider: