First Aid Kit  for Pets

First Aid Kit  for Pets

 

Emergencies can strike at any time, whether you’re at home, running errands around town, or traveling. When they do occur, you should always be prepared with a dog first-aid kit, in addition to your human supplies.

This list will help you assemble everything you’ll need in a first-aid kit for a canine medical emergency or health issue. Aside from these items, be sure to remember to include important paperwork, including a copy of medical records, vaccination records, and emergency phone numbers. Medical emergencies occur suddenly and without warning. It is important for all cat owners to have a basic understanding of common veterinary medical emergencies and basic first aid for their pets. While no one can be prepared for all emergencies, there are some simple guidelines you should follow and things to look for if your cat seems ill or is involved in an accident.

What is first aid?

First aid is the initial treatment given in a medical emergency. Its purpose is to:

• preserve life
• reduce pain and discomfort
• minimize any risk of permanent disability or disfigurement

In an emergency, what should I do first?

• Keep calm and assess the scene for any additional threats to you or your pet. This is important for everyone’s safety.
• Keep your cat warm (except in heat stroke), as quiet as possible, and keep movement to a minimum, especially if there is possible trauma, broken limbs, or any neurological symptoms.
• Contact your veterinary hospital to inform them of the situation and get specific first aid advice.
• To safely move or transport an injured cat, use a suitable container such as a strong cardboard box or a cat carrier (remove the top for easy and safe access to the carrier; DO NOT push an injured cat through the small door or opening). Place a blanket or thick towel over the patient.
• Get to the veterinary hospital as soon as possible.

WHY YOU NEED A PET FIRST AID KIT

Being prepared with basic supplies and information – whether camping, hiking, in your car, or in your home – can help lead to a positive outcome for your pet during an emergency. Since pet emergencies are unexpected and may not happen frequently, even minor emergencies can be stressful. Having the right items handy can help you to feel more confident and speed up the time needed to respond.

HOW TO CREATE A PET FIRST AID KIT

More likely than not, you already have a basic first aid kit handy for minor human injuries. Being prepared with pet first aid supplies could be as simple as adding a few key items. There are also many options for pre-built pet first aid kits which you can buy online or in stores. Alternatively, you can build your own pet first aid kit, specifically for your fur babies.

Use our checklist for key items to stock your pet first aid kit. Plus, remember to check your kit every six months for replacements or to update expired items.

 

Dog First-Aid Kit Checklist: The Essentials

Depending on your pet’s activity level, lifestyle and behavior, some items on this list will be more important to have than others. A comprehensive dog first-aid kit should include the following:

• Tweezers:To remove insect stingers, ticks or splinters
• Gauze sponges:To clean wounds or put pressure on small bleeding areas
• Tourniquet:To control bleeding from a wound
• Bulb syringe:For suctioning nostrils clean
• Clean kitchen or hand towels:For cool compresses and cleaning larger messes
• Epsom salts:When mixed with warm water, fundamental for managing simple swellings or paw injuries
• Baking soda:When mixed with water into a paste, neutralizes skunk smell and acidic insect venom
• Bandage materials: Includes non-adherent bandage pads, cotton wrap, gauze wrap and self-adherent wrap
• Protective cone:Also called an “Elizabethan collar” or “E-collar” — vital for keeping bandages on and reducing the risk of self-trauma
• Antiseptic:For simple wound cleaning and disinfection
• Hydrogen peroxide:For cleaning blood off an injury to make it easier to see
• Syringes:To accurately measure medicines
• Eyewash:To rinse eyes in case of a chemical burn
• Hot water bottle:To help keep small dogs warm, should they suffer hypothermia; also great for soothing muscles after exertion or injury
• Thermometer:To take your dog’s temperature
• Alcohol-free wound spray:To treat simple scrapes, burns and superficial wounds
• An antibiotic or a soothing ointment:Invaluable for treating simple injuries
• Ice pack:Helpful for nosebleeds, among other little injuries

 

• Emergency Contact Card

Use a contact card to write down the phone numbers for your veterinarian, a 24-hour emergency clinic and animal poison control. If you have to leave your pet with a sitter, a copy of the card can be left with them.

It’s also a good idea to keep a copy in your wallet.

• Blunt-Tipped Scissors

A pair of scissors can be an overlooked element in a first aid kit for pets, but without them, it’s often difficult to administer care. Whether you’re removing hair near an injury or applying bandages, scissors always come in handy.

 

• Bandages

Bandages are staples in any dog first aid kit or cat first aid kit. In many cases, the bandage you place after an injury will be temporary until you can get to your veterinarian. Even so, it serves a vital role by providing support and preventing contamination.

Make sure bandages are snug enough so that they won’t fall off but not so tight that they compromise blood flow.

 

• Sterile Eye Solution

It’s scary to think of chemicals or foreign objects being anywhere near your pet’s eyes. If an irritant finds its way into the eye, the animal is likely to scratch or rub and make it worse.

Since eye injuries can be true emergencies, consult your veterinarian before attempting any treatment at home.

 

• Latex or Rubber Gloves

When providing first aid for pets, gloves are essential items to have. In addition to protecting yourself, using gloves helps decrease your pet’s risk of infection. It’s surprisingly easy to accidentally contaminate an animal’s wound.

Consider keeping multiple sets of gloves in your kit. One pair could rip, or you might need the assistance of another person.

• Plastic Syringe

Anyone who has tried to give liquid-based oral pet meds to a fidgety pet knows the value of a syringe. A needleless syringe can also be used to give oral fluids to a dehydrated pet, or you can use it to flush out and clean a wound.

Make sure to keep your syringe sealed up and clean until you need it.

• Medications

Depending on your individual dog or cat’s needs, you may need to have specific medications (including prescription medications) in your first aid kit for pets, but make sure to keep an eye on those expiration dates.

In addition to any prescription medications, it’s also practical to stock your kit with a couple of standard remedies.

Styptic powder is used to stop mild bleeding, particularly if a nail has been broken or cut too close to the quick.

Another first aid kit classic is hydrogen peroxide. With permission from your veterinarian or a poison control professional, it can be used to induce vomiting.

• Tweezers

When a sharp object, such as a thorn or piece of glass, becomes lodged in a pet’s skin, it can be difficult, if not impossible, to remove with just your fingers. Tweezers are the easier, safer and more sanitary choice.

You may also need tweezers for tick removal. When pulling out a tick, you need to grab it as close to your pet’s skin as possible—a feat that is much simpler with tweezers.

 

• Antiseptic Wipes

Using antiseptic wipes or rinses on your pet’s wound will minimize the risk of infection. Wipes are especially convenient for cleaning around the face or in-between the toes.

 

• Digital Thermometer

Measuring your pet’s temperature can help you understand how serious their condition is. When consulting your veterinarian over the phone, it will also be good information to convey.

For stress-free insertion, apply a petroleum or water-based lubricant to the end of the thermometer. If possible, have someone gently restrain and distract your pet while you lift the tail only as far as necessary to slide only the metal tip of the thermometer into your pet’s rectum (approximately one-half inch). Make sure you purchase a thermometer that reads up to at least 105 degrees Fahrenheit.

• Treats (Bonus Item!)

If you’re in a situation that requires first aid for pets, chances are good that your pal could use a distraction. That’s where dog treats or cat treats come in—as long as your pet can safely eat, of course. Do not feed pets who are vomiting, are unable to swallow normally, are having seizures or are mentally impaired.

Dogs and emergency situations:

• First ensure the safety of yourself and others. Keep calm and assess the situation before acting. Injured animals are frightened and in pain and may try to bite anyone who touches them.
• Contact the vet. Keep your vet’s phone number to hand and know the name of the practice.
• Always phone first, whatever the situation, as there may not always be a vet available but staff may be able to suggest immediate action you can take
• Have a pen handy in case another number is given. Treatment can usually be provided more quickly if the dog is taken to the surgery, rather than if the vet is called out.
• If there is a risk of biting, put a muzzle on the dog, or wrap tape around the nose and tie behind the ears, unless the dog has difficulty breathing. Small dogs may be restrained by putting a thick towel over their heads.
• Never give human medicines to a dog – many will do more harm than good. Do not offer food or drink in case anaesthetic is needed.
• Drive carefully when taking the patient to the surgery
• If you do get bitten, see your doctor

Is your dog in need of emergency care?

Sometimes, outside normal hours, it is difficult to decide whether urgent attention is needed. You can always call and ask for advice.

You should phone the vet if:

• your pet seems weak, is reluctant to get up, or is dull and depressed
• there is difficulty breathing, or it is noisy or rapid, or if there is continual coughing causing distress
• there is repeated vomiting, particularly with young or elderly animals. Diarrhoea is less serious, unless severe, bloody or the animal seems weak or unwell. Feed small amounts of a bland diet (boiled chicken or white fish) and see a vet if it persists for over a day see Caring for your sick dog.
• your dog appears to be in severe pain or discomfort
• your pet is trying to urinate or defecate and is unable to. Blockage of the bladder sometimes occurs, especially in males, and can kill if not treated urgently.
• there are sudden difficulties with balance
• a bitch with suckling puppies is agitated, shaking and shivering and will not settle. It could be eclampsia, which needs urgent treatment.

Road accidents and dogs

Prevention is better than cure. Even a well-behaved dog should be kept on a lead anywhere near traffic, including slow moving vehicles. Do not have the collar so loose that the dog can get free.

If the worst happens, beware of other cars. Talk gently to the dog as you approach. Move slowly and avoid making sudden movements. Put a lead on if possible and, if necessary, muzzle before handling. If your dog can walk, go to the vet, even if there appears to be no pain. There may be internal injuries that are not immediately obvious.

If the dog cannot walk, small dogs can be picked up by placing one hand at the front of the chest and the other under the hindquarters. Improvise a stretcher for larger dogs with a coat or a blanket. If the dog is paralysed, there may be a spinal injury, so try to find something rigid, such as a board. Slide the patient gently on to this if possible. Cover with a blanket to reduce heat loss.

First aid for a bleeding dog

Keep the dog quiet and calm. Put on a tight bandage. Improvise with a towel or some clothing if necessary. If blood is seeping through, apply another tight layer. Only use a tourniquet as a last resort. For places you cannot bandage, press a pad firmly onto the wound and hold it in place. Get to the vet straight away.

If you have bandaging materials, place a non-adhesive dressing on the wound and cover with swabs or cotton bandage. Then place a layer of cotton wool. Cover this with more cotton bandage. Stick this to the hair at the top with surgical tape, and cover the whole with adhesive bandage or tape. Do not stick elastoplast to the dog’s hair. When bandaging limbs, the foot should be included or it may swell up. Never leave a bandage on for more than 24 hours.

First aid for dogs with broken bones

Deal with serious bleeding but do not apply a splint – it is painful and can cause the bone to break through the skin. Confine the patient for transport to the vet. Smaller dogs can be put in a box.

First aid for dogs with burns and scalds

Run cold water over these for at least five minutes, then contact the vet. Do not apply ointments or creams but if there is going to be a delay getting to the vets, you can apply saline soaked dressing to the area. Keep the patient warm.

First aid for dogs that have been poisoned

Try to find packaging from the substance swallowed and have it with you when you phone the vet. If chewing plants is suspected, try to find out the identity of the plant. Call the vet immediately. Do not make your dog sick unless the vet says to do so.

First aid for dogs with a swollen tummy

If this happens suddenly, treat it seriously, especially if the dog is a deep chested breed such as a boxer or mastiff. There may also be gulping, dribbling of saliva and attempts to vomit. It could mean there is a life-threatening twist in the stomach. Phone the vet immediately – do not delay.

First aid for dogs with a ball stuck in their throat

Get to the vet quickly. Or you may be able to push the ball out by pushing on the throat/neck from the outside.

If the gums or tongue are turning blue or the dog has collapsed, try the following. You will need someone to help you. One person holds the mouth open, while the other reaches inside. Be careful not to get bitten. If you cannot pull the ball out, lay the pet on their side. Push down suddenly and sharply on the tummy just behind the last rib. The person holding the mouth should be ready to grab the ball as it reappears.

First aid for dogs with coat contamination

If a substance such as paint or tar has got onto the coat or paws, prevent the dog from licking, as it may be toxic. Use an Elizabethan collar (obtainable from vets) if you have one. You may be able to clip off small areas of affected hair. Never use turpentine or paint removers on your dog. You can sometimes remove paint and other substances by bathing the dog in washing up liquid or swarfega, but if a large area is affected, see the vet.

First aid for dogs with heat stroke

If on a warm or hot day your dog is panting heavily and is distressed and especially if the dog is short nosed (eg a boxer), overweight or has been playing or exercising, think heatstroke! Put the dog somewhere cool, preferably in a draught. Wet the coat with tepid water (cold water contracts the blood vessels in the skin and slows heat loss) and phone the vet. You can offer a small amount of water.

First aid for a dog having a fit

If your dog is having a fit, do not try to hold or comfort the dog, as this provides stimulation, which may prolong the fit. Darken the room and reduce noise.

Remove items, especially anything electrical, away from the dog so they cannot cause injury. Pad furniture with cushions. Call the vet.

First aid for a dog in a fights

If your dog seems shocked, dull or distressed after a fight, call the vet. Otherwise, look at the wound. Puncture wounds to the head or body mean you should consult a vet right away. Injuries to the limbs may not need immediate treatment, unless severe or very painful, but take the dog to the vet within 24 hours, as antibiotics may be required.

First aid for dogs with eye injuries

If the eye is bulging out of the socket, apply a wet dressing, prevent rubbing or scratching and call the vet. If chemicals have got into the eye, flush with water repeatedly (preferably from an eye drop bottle) and call the vet.

First aid for a drowning dog

Never put yourself at risk by attempting to rescue a dog.

Wipe away material from the mouth and nose. Hold the dog upside down by the hind legs until the water has drained out. Give resuscitation if breathing has stopped. Even if your pet seems to recover, always see the vet as complications afterwards are common.

First aid for dogs that have received electric shock

If a high voltage supply is involved (non‑domestic, for example, power lines), do not approach. Call the police.

In the home, turn off power first. If this is impossible, you may be able to use a dry non-metallic item, like a broom handle, to push the dog away from the power source. If breathing has stopped, give resuscitation. Call the vet immediately.

First aid for dogs that have been stung

Pull out the sting below the poison sac, then bathe the area in water or use a solution of bicarbonate of soda if available. Applying ice will help to soothe. If the sting is in the mouth or throat, contact the vet as it may swell and interfere with breathing.

Basic dog resuscitation

• Put the animal on their side
• Check that breathing has definitely stopped (hold a wisp of fur to the nostrils)
• Open the mouth, pull the tongue forwards and check for obstructions, such as blood. Be careful not to get bitten when removing any material.
• If breathing does not start, extend the head (nose pointing forwards). Hold the mouth closed and blow into the nose about 20 times a minute. If you cannot feel a heartbeat, push on the chest just behind the front legs every second. Give two breaths into the nose for every 15 compressions of the chest. If this is unsuccessful after three minutes, recovery is unlikely.