Green Iguana as Pets: Keeping & Caring
IGUANA as pets: The green iguana (Iguana iguana), also known as the American iguana, is a large, arboreal, mostly herbivorous species of lizard of the genus Iguana. Usually, this animal is simply called the iguana. Commonly found in captivity as a pet due to its calm disposition and bright colors, it can be very demanding to care for properly. The green iguana ranges over a large geographic area; it is native from southern Brazil and Paraguay as far north as Mexico and the Caribbean islands.
Green iguanas have been kept as pets in captivity for many decades, however their popularity has decreased in recent years as people have become more aware of their large adult size and correlate space requirements. For the appropriately educated individual, iguanas can make interesting pets, but be sure to do your research beforehand. Adult iguanas can reach 3-6 feet in length including their tails. Full-grown adults require something on the order of a small room or very large multi-level cage with adequate out of cage time, making them inappropriate pets for many people, and a challenge for the novice reptile keeper.
Iguanas are one of the most popular pet lizards. They are native to Central and South America. However, iguanas are a major commitment and need a high level of care. They have strict feeding and housing requirements, can grow quite large, live a long time, and can be very strong. Additionally, they can also be difficult to tame and might become aggressive if not regularly handled.
The green iguana is a large lizard that is green to brown to almost black in color, although they usually remain predominantly green as they mature. Some adults can take on an orange or pink coloration during certain times of the year. Hatchling and young green iguanas usually have bright green coloration. Male green iguanas can grow to over 5 feet in length and weigh up to 17 pounds. Females reach lengths similar to those of males, but usually do not exceed 7 pounds. Females typically reach reproductive maturity at two to four years of age. Females dig egg chambers that may contain nearly 80 feet of tunnels and multiple entrances and lay clutches of anywhere from 14-76 eggs. Green iguanas can live up to 10 years in the wild and 19 years in captivity.
Green iguanas can live on the ground, in shrubs, or in trees. Green iguanas are excellent swimmers and tolerate both salt and freshwater. They can submerge themselves for up to 4 hours at a time. Green iguanas feed on a wide variety of vegetation, including shoots, leaves, blossoms and fruits of plants such as nickerbean, firebush, jasmine, orchids, roses, Washington fan palms, hibiscuses, garden greens, squashes and melons. Adult green iguanas can also feed on bird eggs and dead animals. Juvenile green iguanas feed on vegetation, insects and tree snails.
The native range of green iguanas extends from Central America to the tropical parts of South America and some eastern Caribbean islands. Green iguanas were first reported in Florida in the 1960s in Hialeah, Coral Gables and Key Biscayne along Miami-Dade County’s southeastern coast. Green iguana populations now stretch along the Atlantic Coast in Broward, Martin, Miami-Dade, Monroe and Palm Beach Counties and along the Gulf Coast in Collier and Lee Counties. There have also been reports as far north as Alachua, Highlands, Hillsborough, Indian River and St. Lucie Counties. In cleared habitats such as canal banks and vacant lots, green iguanas reside in burrows, culverts, drainage pipes and rock or debris piles. South Florida’s extensive man-made canals serve as ideal dispersal corridors to further allow iguanas to colonize new areas.
Green iguanas can cause damage to residential and commercial landscape vegetation, and are often considered a nuisance by property owners. Iguanas are attracted to trees with foliage or flowers, most fruits (except citrus) and almost any vegetable. Some green iguanas cause damage to infrastructure by digging burrows that erode and collapse sidewalks, foundations, seawalls, berms and canal banks. Green iguanas may also leave droppings on docks, moored boats, seawalls, porches, decks, pool platforms and inside swimming pools. As is the case with other reptiles, green iguanas can transmit the infectious bacterium Salmonella to humans through contact with water or surfaces contaminated by their feces.
It grows to 1.5 metres (4.9 ft) in length from head to tail, although a few specimens have grown more than 2 metres (6.6 ft) with bodyweights upward of 20 pounds (9.1 kg).
Space requirements and the need for special lighting and heat can prove challenging to the hobbyist.
COMMON NAMES: Iguana, green iguana, American iguana
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Iguana iguana
ADULT SIZE: Up to 20 pounds and up to 7 feet long
LIFE EXPECTANCY: 10 to 12 years in captivity, though up to 20 years is not uncommon
Length: 30 – 42 cm (Snout to vent)
Family: Iguanidae
Order: Squamata
Class: Reptilia
Mass: Male: 4 kg (Adult), Female: 1.2 – 3 kg (Adult
Life cycle
- Life expectancy 8 years for wild animals, 20 years for captive.
- Sexually mature at 3-4 years.
- Females can store sperm for several years.
- Eggs are laid once a year in clutches of 20-70.
- Eggs hatch after 90-120 days.
- Juveniles stay with family groups for 1 year.
Scientific Classification
Common Name
green iguana, common iguana
Kingdom
Animalia
Phylum
Chordata
Class
Reptilia
Order
Squamata
Family
Iguanidae
Genus Species
Iguana iguana (West Indian for lizard)
Fast Facts
Description
Arboreal; earthy green lizard with transverse bands on the body and tail; short, powerful limbs; sharp claws; long, strong tail; large flap of skin (dewlap) that hangs from throat and helps to regulate temperature; prominent crest of soft spines along the middle of the neck and back, beginning at base of the skull
Male: Males typically have brighter overall coloration than females
Size
Male: 120-195 cm (4-6.5 ft) as adults
Female: Slightly smaller than males
Weight
4.5-6.75 kg (10-15 lb.)
Diet
Omnivorous as young but adults are almost exclusively herbivores; fruits, flowers, leaves; insects and snails opportunistically; young iguanas eat more insects and shift to 95% vegetation as they age
Incubation
60-85 days
Clutch Size: 10-50 eggs
Sexual Maturity
2 years; males sometimes longer (need longer period of growth in order to be large enough to compete for females)
Life Span
15 years
Range
No data
Habitat
Tree dweller in tropics; trees/bushes close to water in tropical rainforests; prefers temperatures in the upper 90s (Farenheit)
Population
Global: No data
Status
IUCN: No data
CITES: Not listed
USFWS: Not listed
Fun Facts
- Iguanas are able to hold their breath for up to 30 minutes.
- They will often jump from tree to water using their powerful tail for swimming to escape. They are also able to leap down 40-50 feet without injury.
- To attract a mate, mature males may turn orange during breeding season.
- Iguanas store large amounts of fat in their lower jaw and neck area in order to survive times of famine. The pouch at the base of their neck is called a dewlap, and is used in display.
- Their tail has weakened vertebrae so the iguana can break free and escape if caught by the tail. Iguanas are also able to whip their tail in defense, leaving behind a stinging welt or worse.
11 Things to Know Before Getting a Pet Iguana
- They get really big.
- They need a lot of space.
- They’re native to tropical climates.
- They are terrifyingly strong.
- They can live a long time.
- They’re not cuddly.
- They’re kind of boring.
- Their tails can fall off.
- They’re strict vegetarians.
- You have to do a lot of research first.
- They’re not dinosaurs.
Iguana Behavior and Temperament
Pet iguanas will never be truly domesticated animals, and many of them will try to escape their enclosures and even your home. Captive iguanas need to be picked up and held routinely for taming purposes, so they can learn to trust you and be comfortable in their environment. However, this can be a challenge because they often find human contact unnatural and might resist it. So it’s important to handle your iguana with care and patience.
Baby iguanas can move quickly, but adult iguanas often become quite lazy and docile, at least when they don’t feel threatened. When out of their cage, some iguanas might prefer to climb on their owners. They do have sharp claws, so wear protective clothing if your pet iguana likes this activity. Additionally, an iguana can cause real harm with its tail. An adult iguana’s tail is strong enough to break a human bone. While this is relatively rare, iguanas are still powerful creatures. So pay attention to any struggling or aggression when handling them, especially if children or other pets are present.
Housing the Iguana
Iguanas can grow up to 7 feet long when their tail is included in the measurement, and they generally weigh around 20 pounds. This size often surprises people who start with a little baby iguana. Therefore, an aquarium or a small reptile enclosure is a very short-lived home for a young iguana.
Most commercially available cages do not meet an iguana’s space needs. Many iguana owners opt for custom-built enclosures complete with many ramps, shelves, and branches that this tree-dwelling species can climb. An adequate enclosure for a single iguana is around 12 feet long, 6 feet wide, and 8 feet tall. Many people even choose to convert an entire room or a large closet to their iguana’s habitat.
To keep your iguana’s enclosure clean, remove uneaten food, feces, shedded skin, and other visible waste every day. Also, clean the food and water dishes daily. Once a week, move your iguana to a temporary cage to clean its main enclosure. Discard the substrate (the bedding that absorbs waste and odors), and scrub all surfaces and decorations, such as rocks, with a pet-safe cleaner. Wait for everything to dry thoroughly before reassembling the enclosure.
Heat
The iguana is a tropical animal. It wants to bask at 95 degrees Fahrenheit, and its habitat shouldn’t drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, the iguana needs a temperature around 85 degrees Fahrenheit to properly digest its food. This should be closely monitored, especially if you’re adjusting the climate of an entire room for its habitat. You can use heat lamps typically positioned less than a foot away from basking ledges (follow the instructions on your particular light) to achieve an optimal temperature.
Light
A large enclosure means a lot of lighting. Use UVB bulbs designed for reptiles to provide your iguana with appropriate light exposure for 10 to 12 hours per day. This mimics the benefits it would get from natural sunlight, namely promoting vitamin D production. Mercury vapor bulbs can be used for large enclosures or rooms, while compact fluorescent lights or tubes can work for small enclosures. Large branches and shelves in the enclosure will allow your tree-dwelling iguana to climb up and bask in these lights.
Humidity
Iguanas need at least 70% humidity in their environment. You can increase the humidity of your iguana’s habitat by adding a pool of water to the enclosure or using a mister. It’s generally recommended to mist your iguana two times a day to increase humidity and maintain healthy skin.
Substrate
A wood substrate, or bedding, is typically fine for iguanas. Because they’re a tree-dwelling species, they spend most of their time climbing instead of burrowing in their bedding.
Food and Water
Fresh food is the key to a healthy iguana. Iguanas in the wild are strict herbivores. They avoid eating animal protein, including insects. In fact, diets high in protein can cause health issues, such as kidney failure, in an iguana.
In addition to a quality pelleted commercial diet, provide your iguana with dark leafy greens, some fruit, and a calcium supplement. Plus, iguanas need fresh water available at all times. Follow your veterinarian’s instructions on the quantity to feed to maintain a healthy weight for your pet’s size.
It’s important to remember that iguanas swallow their food whole without chewing, so everything you offer must be chopped or shredded into tiny pieces. Remove and discard any food that hasn’t been eaten within 24 hours.
Common Health and Behavior Problems
Like most pet reptiles, iguanas carry salmonella. This means salmonella is present in the iguana’s digestive tract without causing disease to the animal. But humans can acquire it from touching the iguana or items in its environment.
Follow common-sense hygiene practices when handling iguanas. Wash your hands well before and after spending time with your pet, and avoid touching your face. This should prevent the spread of the disease in most cases. However, if there are young children, seniors, pregnant women, or immunocompromised people in your home, take extra precautions. An iguana might not be the right pet for your family.
A common health issue for iguanas is kidney disease, often due to dehydration. If your iguana is lethargic, has swelling on its body, and is frequently drinking or urinating, get it to a vet immediately. Moreover, iguanas often face metabolic bone disease due to insufficient calcium and vitamin D, which is why a calcium supplement and UVB lighting are so important. Also, many iguanas come down with respiratory diseases from habitats that are too cold.
In terms of behavior, most iguanas can become tame with proper daily handling. They prefer a predictable routine, which makes them feel secure. However, they do have a strong self-defense instinct and will bite, scratch, and whip their tails if they feel threatened.
Choosing Your Iguana
Iguanas are readily available from pet stores, breeders, and rescue groups. In fact, many end up in rescues when their owners realize they can’t meet the species’ care needs.
Don’t be fooled by a pet store selling you a small iguana and claiming it will stay that size. These animals grow very quickly. Look for an iguana that is active with clear eyes, healthy skin, and normal feces. Red flags include a low body weight, mucus around the animal’s nose or mouth, bumps or sores on its skin, and lethargy.
HOUSING: Iguanas should be housed singly throughout their lives.
Cage – A 30 gallon aquarium or Rubbermaid tub is an adequate starter enclosure for an iguana, but will not be appropriate for very long. As your pet grows, you will have to buy or build larger enclosures. At a minimum, an adult iguana will need a cage 4-5 feet tall, 4 feet long and 2-3 feet wide. Offering multiple levels with platforms and/or branches allows your pet to utilize more of its enclosure and pursue its natural climbing habits. Larger iguanas may be kept in a small room or custom built enclosure.
Bedding/substrate – Newspapers or paper towels are safest and easiest to replace/clean. Vinyl tile (from hardware store) or Repti-Carpet can also be used. If a paper pulp material (e.g. Carefresh) is used, you should feed your pet in a separate enclosure to prevent ingestion. Replace the bedding/substrate or clean the hard surface every 1-2 days to prevent exposure to waste. **SAND, GRAVEL, MULCH/BARK, OR OTHER NATURAL SUBSTRATES SHOULD NOT BE USED DUE TO DIFFICULTIES IN CLEANING, RISK OF GASTROINTESTINAL ISSUES IF EATEN, AND PROBLEMS WITH IRRITATION OF EYES AND DELICATE TISSUE OF MOUTH.
Cage “furniture” – Platforms, branches, driftwood, cork bark and/or large rocks can be provided for climbing. **HEATED ROCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED DUE TO RISK OF THERMAL BURNS.
Temperature/heating – A temperature gradient should be created within the enclosure, with a warm side and a cool side. This allows the iguana to regulate its temperature by changing location. Provide a daytime focal basking area of 90-95°F (use incandescent bulb, ceramic heating element, or red/other bulb; under tank heating pad can also be used if needed) on the warm side of the enclosure. Daytime temperatures on the cooler side of the enclosure should be 75-85°F. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure appropriate temperatures are maintained. Dial thermometers are often inaccurate. Provide a nighttime temperature range of 70-85°F throughout the enclosure. If needed, a safe under tank heating pad, ceramic heating element, or red bulb can help in maintaining recommended temperatures. Due to risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats/thermostats if using the commonly available ZooMed heating pads. Heating pads with which we have had good experiences include Ultratherm Heat Pads (beanfarm.com) and Cobra T-Rex Heat Pads (available from many pet stores).
Lighting – Provide an ultraviolet B (5.0 UVB) light over the basking area (within 18 inches, no glass/acrylic in between) for approximately 12 hours a day. UVB is necessary for vitamin D production and appropriate absorption of calcium from the gastrointestinal system. Replace this bulb approximately every 6 months, as UVB production decreases with time.
Try to expose your iguana to natural sunlight as much as possible during the summer months. DO NOT leave your iguana outside in a glass tank or an enclosed container because it will overheat. Try building an all screen enclosure and make sure part of it is always shaded. Dogs, cats, raccoons, etc. like to eat iguanas, so DO NOT leave your iguana unattended outside unless you are certain the cage is secure.
FEEDING:
Vegetables (70-80% of diet) – Feed variety of dark leafy vegetables, such as collard greens, kale, endive, spinach, romaine lettuce, green/red leaf lettuce, Boston lettuce, parsley, bok choy, and broccoli (leaves and florets). Limited amounts of other vegetables (carrots, squash, peas, beans) can be offered.. Chop/shred greens, spray with water, and offer in bowl or on plate once daily to every other day depending on the age of your inguana.
Complete diet (20-30% of diet) – Commercial iguana diets (moistened with water) can be offered. Common brands include Rep-cal, Reeds, Zeigler, Scenic, Pretty Pets, or Nutri-grow. Due to higher vitamin and mineral content, iguanas eating mainly a commercial diet (at least 50%) may need to have their multi-vitamin and calcium supplementation reduced.
Vitamin supplements – If your iguana eats largely greens, you will need to supplement the diet with vitamin and calcium powders. Dust salad with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement (with NO phosphorous added) 4-5 times a week in juveniles and 2-3 times a week in adults. Dust salad with a high quality multi-vitamin (with a vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene and NO vitamin D3) once a week in juveniles and once every other week in adults.
WATER
Water bowl – Provide clean, fresh water in a dish/bowl into which your dragon can easily climb (small/low for juveniles). Change water daily.
Encourage drinking – Mist the environment and iguana 3-4 times daily with water in a spray bottle.
Soaking – Soak your pet 2-3 times a week in warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration, and help with shedding.
SIGNS OF ILLNESS: We highly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experienced reptile veterinarian. Please consult a reptile veterinarian should you notice any of the following signs: weight loss, decreased appetite/thirst, abnormal stools, twitching/tremors/seizures, swelling of the limbs, inability to close the mouth properly, discharge from eyes and/or mouth, difficulty breathing, distension of the abdomen in non-breeding animals, masses/lumps, or wounds/cuts/scrapes.
https://www.pashudhanpraharee.com/homeopathy-in-veterinary-practice/
https://reptilesmagazine.com/caring-for-the-green-iguana/
Compiled & Edited by -DR. ROHIT RAJ, EXOTIC PETS VETERINARIANS
