JUDGING TECHNIQUE IN DOG SHOW
Dog shows may appear odd and confusing to an outsider, but there are specific rules and procedures governing this enduring competition. According to the American Kennel Club, more than 4 million dogs are entered in shows every year, competing in events that include agility, herding, obedience and physical characteristics. Judges are responsible for evaluating dogs and following guidelines to determine which dogs win awards. The ultimate prize, of course, is Best in Show.
Judges’ Role———
Dog show judges are responsible for individually examining and observing each dog that he’s assigned during a competition. Some subjectivity is involved since each judge has a different idea of what comprises a great dog. However, judges must observe the breed standards for each dog they evaluate. For example, a doberman will have a different breed standard than a poodle, because of differences in physiology and general temperament.
THE FIVE ESSENTIALS OF JUDGING——–
Let’s have a look at the five essentials of dog judging:
type
balance
soundness
temperament condition
TYPE———-
Breed type is what makes a breed what it is. It is the sum of all specific breed characteristics (hallmarks) that make it different from other breeds. In order for a dog to be “typey”, it must possess all or most of the characteristics as defined by that breed’s standard.
The word “type” is often misused in the context of referring to personal preferences. For instance, exhibitors may claim, “the judge obviously doesn’t like my type of Golden Retriever.” The correct term to use when describing individual differences within a breed, is “style”. There can only be one correct type in a breed, so if it is recognisable as a Golden Retriever, it has Golden Retriever type. However, it is entirely possible to find, in the Golden Retriever ring, representatives of American-style, English-style, working style, and even different styles developed by various breeders, for example – all of which possess type because they are recognisably Golden Retrievers, but possessing several different styles.
Awarding according to a particular style is also a much-debated topic. Generally, judges do prefer particular styles within the breeds, but a good judge never compromises quality and closeness to the breed standard for a style preference. So, if you see a couple of different styles in a judge’s Best of Breed line-up it does not necessarily mean that the judge was “judging all over the place” – he/she was clearly awarding exhibits that he/she felt most closely represented the breed standard, regardless of style.
Recognition of breed type is absolutely essential for a breed judge, only obtained through thorough study and interpretation of the breed standards and through the ability to recognise the characteristics as they appear in real life. A typey dog catches the expert eye immediately. Have you heard the comment, “that dog filled my eye with quality”? A typey dog is a living example of everything embodied in the breed standard. A dog lacking in breed type, regardless of how sound it is or how elegantly it shows itself, has little to offer the breed.
Balance ————
A dog in proportion is a dog with balance. Such a dog will neither have glaring faults nor a single outstanding feature. He pleases the eye because every part of him is in balance – height to length, head to body, skull to foreface, bone to body – everything fitting and moving together properly as described in the standard. Very often, a dog with balance doesn’t need a lot of pulling and pushing to get it into a good stacked position – it tends to stand four-square and solidly, whether as tiny as a Chihuahua or as large as an Irish Wolfhound. When a dog possesses good balance – when everything is in good proportion – it just looks right.
Soundness ———
This is the word used to describe the manner in which dogs gait. A judge’s task is not only to observe and evaluate correctness of movement – and thereby weigh gaiting faults against the whole picture – but also to evaluate the dog according to the type of gait as prescribed by the breed standard. A Poodle should not move like an Afghan Hound, which should not move like a German Shepherd, which should not move like a Miniature Pinscher, which should not move like a Border Collie, and so on. There is no such thing as a generic
show dog, and judges need to take the greatest care not to be fooled by flashy, uncharacteristic gaiting action or speed of motion around the ring.
Temperament ———–
Not all dogs are friendly, tail-wagging happy creatures eager to lick a welcome greeting. Some breed standards call for aloofness, some expect wariness of strangers. Some describe an expectation for action and some present a stoic steadfastness. Temperament is as unique to a breed as its description of type, so judges ought to beware of generalisations.
Condition ———
It is a dog show, after all. Condition refers to the well-being of the dog – its state of being and health as indicated through the sparkle in its eyes, the condition of the coat, the amount of weight it is carrying, muscle tone – all appropriate for the particular breed, and all presented in a clean and glowing package.
READY, STEADY, JUDGE! ——–
You’ve done all your preparation, you’ve studied your breed standards, you’ve memorised your breed hallmarks. Your ring is ready the way you want it, the ring steward is standing by to announce the first class, the exhibitors are lined up at the entrance – you are now ready to pronounce judgement!
Starting the class ———
Most judges prefer to start the class with the exhibitors gaiting the dogs once around the ring. Even if there is only one dog in the class, this is a useful practice because it settles the dog and reduces pent-up excitement or stress. This is an ideal opportunity to gain a first impression of the class and you may even be able to make mental notes of those you find excellent, mediocre or poor. If it is a medium or large breed, always encourage
the exhibitor to use the whole ring and ask them to allow sufficient space between each other so that there’s no crowding or interference. Occasionally, a novice handler may be confused about which side to gait the dog – be patient, advise the handler in a friendly manner, and allow them to try again. Watch out for bad showmanship,
where unsportsmanlike exhibitors go out of their way to distract the dog ahead or run up behind it. Some judges require small dogs (who take a long time to gait around the ring) to go directly to the table for examination. This would be justifiable if time is of the essence, for example if there are many dogs to judge in a relatively short time. However, do try to arrange the route to the table so that there is, at least, a fair amount of movement, if not a full circle. This action is by far not mandatory and will rely on the judge’s personal
preference and circumstances prevailing, and certainly must not exclude a normal gaiting pattern during the individual examination.
Also remember that a dog show is not purely for your own benefit as a judge. The people at ringside usually show great interest in the proceedings, particularly if you are new to that group/breed, particularly at the beginning of the judging and particularly during the judging of breeds that interest specific spectators. This does not mean that you’re allowed to “play to the gallery”, where some judges have been known to behave like a ringmaster in the centre of the ring. Take your task seriously, but be aware that people are watching, so allow it to progress in an interesting manner. You can do this by following your set procedure consistently so that spectators and exhibitors know exactly what’s going on.
First impressions ———-
Before the dogs come into the ring, the Ring Steward would have instructed the exhibitors what to do and where to set up their dogs according to your decision. If there are a few dogs in the class or if you are moving them around the ring once, now is the time to cast your eye over them collectively and gain a first impression, mentally dividing them into excellent, mediocre and poor categories. If you are at an outside venue, it is hoped that you selected the most level area for setting up so that dogs are not standing “downhill” or showing anything less than a natural position. Ideally, all dogs should face in the same
direction (mostly towards your left, as you look at them, except in the case of certain breeds that are presented frontwards or diagonally), but some judges are lenient when dogs are turned the other way in order to settle a worried dog or to remove distractions. This decision is up to you and you are entitled to request that the handler conforms to your preference. It is rare, these days, that classes will be as large as they were a few decades ago, but should you be so fortunate, it may be necessary to divide your class into one or two groups, send one group out to rest while you judge those in the ring, make a shortlist, then bring in the other group for judging, after which you will narrow it down to your choice for class winner. Your first impressions are about to be modified or confirmed during your examination of the dogs.
Presentation of the dog ——-
The presentation of the dog for examination will generally depend on its size – either on the ground, or on the table. If a table is used, make sure that it is standing firmly and will not wobble as the dog is placed on it. Also check that the surface of the table is not hot after having been left in the sun for a long time. Some Clubs may offer ramps, which are best suited for some middle-sized breeds not traditionally shown on a table. It is your choice whether you would like to have traditionally non-table dogs shown on the ramp and it would also be a good idea to allow exhibitors free choice in this regard. Whether table or ramp, the purpose of showing a dog in an elevated position is to allow clearer vision of the dog as you examine it and also, because a human bending over a little dog is a very frightening thing. (Take that as you will!)
How to approach the dog ————-
Never approach a dog from behind – not on initial evaluation and not later during your decision-making process!
1. Allow sufficient time for the handler to set up the dog where you want it to be stacked for examination. Exhibitors hate it when judges do not give them enough time to do this, so be very aware of this courtesy.
2. Take a few seconds to look at the fully-stacked dog in profile (or diagonal or front-on) to gain an overall impression of the dog’s structure. If the dog is in profile, it is at this point that you will determine the height to length ratio, the layback of shoulder, the balance of fore- and hindquarters and, of course, the total silhouette.
3. Most exhibitors prefer an approach from a diagonal front, so, when you have finished looking at the overall presentation, walk purposefully – neither too wimpy nor too forcefully – towards the dog in a curve from your vantage position toward the dog’s diagonal front. Some breeds, such as the Chow Chow and Shar Pei have limited peripheral vision, so you need to approach directly from the front.
4. Your demeanour should exude confidence and quiet control. Never let a dog sense you are nervous through jerky or hesitant movements and never back off in a state of nervous anxiety – some breeds like Afghan Hounds and Salukis will play up to this and that will be the end of a trouble-free examination.
5. Avoid rushing over to the dog aggressively or gruffly and don’t grab the dog’s head in a forceful manner.
6. As you approach the dog, greet the handler (regardless of how many times he/she enters the ring with different dogs), and ask if you may examine the dog. You may also ask the age of the dog. Insist that the handler answers you because the purpose of talking to the handler is not to strike up a conversation, but rather to indicate to the dog that the handler approves of the stranger touching him.
7. If you are judging some of the traditionally more protective breeds, like some of those in the Working Group, you may ask first if it is okay to touch the dog. You don’t have to place yourself in a dangerous position, and if a dog does try to go for you or does actually make contact, you may excuse him from the ring, whereafter you need to report it to the Show Manager and sign the Judge’s sheets accordingly. This rarely happens, however, since most are well socialised and accustomed to being handled.
8. Avoid eye contact initially, especially males – look at the dog just south of his eyes and set him at ease first before you examine eye shape and colour.
9. It is really not necessary to stick your hand out like a wet fish in order for the dog to smell you. The dog smelt you when it came into the ring and, in any case, it has already identified all the dogs and other items you have touched up to now. A wet-fish, slack hand indicates to the dog that you are nervous, which may even be true! If you really want to put your hand out to them, pretend you have a treat in your hand, then extend your fingers palm upwards.
10. With your right hand, touch and warmly massage the dog’s cheek or neck, as you talk to him and give a few encouraging words. Your touch must be firm, without being harsh, and it should exude control and confidence. Too soft a touch is wishy-washy and could send a message that you are nervous.
11. Speak pleasantly to the dog in a reassuring manner until he settles, then proceed to examine the dog in silence.
INDIVIDUAL EXAMINATION ———
A hands-on examination is essential, except on a couple of breeds, such as the Azawakh, where touching is traditionally not required, and the Fila Brasileiro, which is a one-man dog that won’t allow touching. The eye often misinterprets the impression, but the fingers can adjust that illusion. With coated breeds, hands-on examination is imperative, while with smooth-coated breeds it will probably only be necessary to touch certain areas and feel the muscle tone, since everything else is clearly visible.
Where you place your hands, how you touch the dog, and what you touch, will be indicators for exhibitors to judge your competence. Are your touches meaningful? Do you know what you’re looking for, or are you merely stroking the dog pointlessly? Competent hands check each characteristic with speed and accuracy. There’s no need to prod every last inch of the dog, especially if it’s a short-haired breed, but neglecting to go into the coat of long-coated breeds is negligent. Rough treatment – especially at the mouth – can frighten a dog and cause huge problems for the exhibitor in the future. An excessively light touch sends the signal that you are nervous of touching the dog. Best is a firm, but gentle, touch that exudes confidence and control.
The head ———-
The head is usually a feature of great importance – it is the head that generally defines breed type. For this reason, the head usually contains the most detailed descriptions in the breed standard and there’s plenty to look at and evaluate. Work systematically through all the features of the head in whichever order suits you. Place your hands and fingers meaningfully where they need to be to measure skull to foreface ratio, the shape of the
head and skull, the length and breadth of muzzle, texture and set-on of ears, the stop, the underjaw, and every other detail. Look at the head from the front, from the top down and in profile, working in a ‘check-list’ order that you will have determined previously. Take note of the eye set and colour as well as the expression, and observe if the facial coat colour and markings are correct. Exhibitors don’t generally appreciate having their dog’s ears pulled forward towards the muzzle, unless it is required. Be gentle at all times. When evaluating dentition and the bite, make sure you know the standard procedure for evaluating these and to what level of detail you need to examine dentition. Dobermanns, German Shepherds, Rottweilers and most Working breeds, for example, must have full dentition, so counting teeth is a prerequisite. In some breeds, like the Rottweiler, you also need to examine the colour of the gums and palate, or the colour of the tongue, as in
Chow Chows. Very often, handlers prefer to show you their dog’s teeth, which they will do very efficiently. Health wise, this is a sensible pattern to follow since judges could easily pass infection from one mouth to the next. In many other breeds, judges usually only open the front lips to look for a scissor, undershot or level bite (as the standard predicts) and in some breeds, such as Pekingese and a few other Toy breeds, examination of the teeth is not necessary at all. Learn the conventions of each breed and know what you need to look for. Know in which breeds missing teeth are a cardinal sin and in which breeds it’s not that important. Know what problem bites look like, and be on the look-out for occlusion problems, such as impacted canines, which can cause agony for the dog.
The neck and forequarters ————————–
While still in front of the dog, check the skin on the throat – whether or not loose skin or a dewlap is required, and then extend your hand down the front to feel the prosternum and the space between the forelegs. This should give you a good idea of the chest development and the structure of the forequarters.
Then, move to the side of the dog and examine the length and set of neck. Some judges do this by placing one hand at the base of the skull and the other at the withers – this to gain a clearer vision of the neck length. With your right hand, stroke down the neck and over the withers to examine the smoothness of the withers and where they are positioned. In some breeds, you also need to measure the distance between the shoulder blades at
the withers with your fingers. From your view on the side, you ought to be able to imagine a plumb line dropped from the withers down to the ground. If the elbow and the back of the forelegs are in line with the tip of the shoulder blade, you are generally looking at a well-laid shoulder. Use your hands to measure and examine the angle of shoulder and the length of shoulder blade and upper arm. Run your hands down the forelegs to feel for bone and spring of pastern if required. Gently lift the feet to examine the pads underneath and take careful note of the shape of the feet, the length of nails and the arch of the toes.
The body —-
Test the spring of rib by placing your hands either side of the rib cage and gently pressing. There should be a
springy firmness. Looking down on the body, you should examine the shape of the rib cage and then the length
of loin, which you can test by marking the end of the ribs and the start of the pelvis with your fingers. Gently
feel the muscle tone over the loin, but avoid pressing down too hard on the dog so that it places strain on the
joints.
Feel the texture of the coat with your fingers and part the hair slightly to find undercoat. For most breeds, the
best place to check for undercoat and coat texture is on the side of the ribcage, but in some breeds, like the Shar Pei, the best way to feel texture is to stroke against the lie of the coat on the back just in front of the tail. (There you go – some free specialist information, the likes of which you will collect during your studies!)
Hindquarters and tail ——
Standing behind the dog, examine the lay of croup with your hands and the set of tail. Beware of pulling tails into strange positions – you must never uncurl a curly tail and it is totally unnecessary to pull a tail under the dogs body to make it reach the hip bone. Most breed standards expect a long tail to reach to the hock, but you would not do this to, say, an Afghan Hound’s tail.
If it is a male, quickly and deftly feel the testicles. They should both be there and apparently normal. Don’t dilly-dally in this area!
Run your hands down the thighs to feel for good muscle tone and take note of the bend of stifle, especially in coated breeds where you may need to part the hair. Check the length and strength of hock and, finally examine the hindfeet in the same way you did the forefeet.
Once the hands-on examination is finished, you will probably want to step back and look at the total picture again. Then, you are ready to gait the dog.
Evaluating the gait ——-
Gaiting is the confirmation of the hands-on examination. A faulty structure of the front assembly, for example, will be confirmed with restricted movement in profile. Unbalanced angulation between front and rear will show up in uneven movement, and so on.
While it is valuable to examine how a dog comes and goes, bear in mind that not all dogs will do it in the same
way, so don’t look for generic perfection. It is also rather unfair to fixate on the away-and-back, since moving in
a dead straight line is governed by many circumstances, one of which is the inability to tell the dog to do so
flawlessly. Relying on away-and-back movement exclusively indicates a tendency to fault-judge – grossly
unfair in view of the fact that the “fault” may only be a turn of the leg because the dog was distracted. The side
gait is considered by experienced judges to be of greater importance because, in one go-around, you are able to
evaluate breed type and temperament, balance in the whole outline, strength of topline on the move, head
carriage, tail carriage, the proper amount of reach and drive (neither under-tracking nor over-tracking), and
confirm all of this with the characteristics you have just discovered in the hands-on examination. A good
handler knows how to stack a dog beautifully, but when it is on the move, the dog gets to show what it’s really
made of.
Some judges like to request a triangle so that they can see all sides of action, while some prefer a straight up and down (away and back), followed by once around the ring. Best you select the most often-used gaiting patterns –
you will get some very puzzled expressions if you ask for a T-pattern or a reverse-L! Try to choose the gaiting pattern most practical for the group you are judging, for instance, you may prefer to request a triangle for
smaller breeds and an away-and-back plus circle for the larger breeds, but essentially this is your choice. Try to avoid requesting all the gaiting patterns or more circuits than are absolutely necessary, and be mindful of very hot or rainy weather, both of which place strain on the gaiting dog and handler. If a dog is playful or unsettled, allow the handler to try a gaiting pattern again. Be fair, but with discretion.
Be aware of particular gaiting requirements of specific breeds and adjust your pattern accordingly. German
Shepherds, for example, traditionally start a circle at the walk, then build up to a trot and gait at least twice
around the ring. Trotting dogs move differently to galloping dogs – know which is which and what defines them as such. With a practiced eye, for example, you’ll note that a trotting dog, like an Australian Shepherd, will
probably move away and back flawlessly every time, but a galloping dog, like a Saluki or Azawakh, may move less than perfectly true away and back because of their steeper angulation and looser action. Old English
Sheepdogs should never be encouraged to race around the ring lickety-split; you want to see that delightful roll, which is only evident at an amble or slower speed. The secret is to know what you’re looking for and request the most appropriate gaiting pattern to be able to see it.
Evaluating gait is one of the most difficult tasks to get right. It takes lots of practice and extra research. Don’t be afraid to discuss the gaiting of dogs with experienced breeders and judges.
MAKING DECISIONS ——–
Sorting the class——
When all the dogs have been equally judged, it’s time to find your class winners. If there’s only one exhibit in
the class, no decision is necessary, but if there are several exhibits, it’s crunch time! During the individual
examinations, you would already have made a few mental evaluations, and you are likely to have already
identified your class winner. Some judges like to place the exhibits in order of selection, then gait them around
the ring together and announce the placings. This has benefit in that the spectators can follow what you are
doing. Some judges like to make shortlists, but you can only really do this in very large classes. Some judges
can organise their choices in their minds and announce the placings from a random line-up, but this is seldom
possible in a large class.
If you fear that you may forget what you observed during the individual evaluation, you can make a few notes in
a small notebook, and some judges like to award a varying number of stars as they work through the class. If
you need to take another look at, for example, dentition, call all the exhibits back to your judging position and
examine the mouths of all the dogs. Why? Imagine how the tongues will wag if you place a dog (or don’t place
it) immediately after examining one characteristic on one dog! If you need to re-examine a table dog, the dogs
must come back to the table – never, ever fold yourself over a small dog in a stacked line-up. You may wish to
walk up the line closely to have another look at expression, but avoid walking back down the line from back to
front. If you feel the need to move the dogs again, say in a circle, send around a few at a time. No judge can
successfully compare the movement of a large class simultaneously. When judging a class of mixed breeds,
avoid the tendency of moving them all together – it almost always ends up in disorganised chaos with large dogs
tripping over or waiting for small dogs, to say nothing of the stop-start action inevitable in a crowded ring. At
ringside, a sure sign for exhibitors that a judge is disorganised or a novice is when they move the whole group
around the ring together! Beware.
When the dogs are lined up in front of you, the handler’s skill and the dog’s attentiveness will play a strong
influence in your decision. Try not to be fooled by flash – remember the characteristics you found, and stick to your gut feeling. All things being equal, at this point it’s useful to recall the order of the five essentials of breed judging and place your exhibits accordingly:
type
balance
soundness
temperament condition
Not every judge will agree with this notion, naturally, which accounts for the different placings of dogs made by different judges.
Difficulty arises when all or most of the dogs in the class are very similar – none of them stand out as being
completely correct or completely incorrect.. Your decision is dependent on your knowledge and interpretation of
the breed standard, your observation skills and your experience. The latter will develop with time, so if you feel
disturbed with your first few attempts at decision-making, don’t worry excessively. Just try a little harder next
time and know that experience will increase. Try to make your decision as quickly as you can – remember time
is marching on and you don’t want to send a message to the exhibitors that you can’t make up your mind. And
never tell them that!
Making your placings——-
Make up your mind as quickly as you can and try to avoid excessive additional judging or gaiting. At class level, most judges indicate class winners with a single finger, double finger, three fingers or four fingers held out, while simultaneously declaring “First”, “Second”, “Third”, “Fourth”.
When awarding Challenge Certificates, you will have the winners of all the same-sex classes from which to choose your CC winner. Remember that Baby Puppies and Neutered Dogs are not eligible for CCs or BOB. If there is a rosette, the usual is to walk over and hand the rosette to the exhibitor, “CC awarded”. Before you
decide on your RCC winner, remember that the second-placed dog in the winner’s class must be brought in again to contest for the RCC. You are entitled to withhold a CC if you feel that there is insufficient quality, but if you do so, you must also withhold the RCC.
Best of Breed must be judged before all other classes in the order requested by the Club. The Best of Breed line-
up will potentially comprise both CC winners and both winners of the restricted class (ie. champions). Similar to
the procedure for CCs, when you have awarded Best of Breed, you need to call in the RCC winner or second in
the champions class to contest the Reserve Best of Breed. If there are no CC winners or champions, you may not
award Best of Breed.
When judging the Group, you may wish to draw a shortlist of potential winners. If you do so, take care to
announce that you will be pulling a shortlist, but that it will be in random order, lest exhibitors believe that first pulled forward means first-placed. If you need to place 4 dogs, it is unwise to shortlist more than about 8 dogs, but never 5 (which would mean that one unplaced exhibitor will be left standing). Call them to the centre of the ring and politely excuse the rest of the exhibitors, with thanks for their entry.
Most judges prefer exhibitors to take their places at the place markers, from where their numbers will be marked in the judge’s sheets and signed by the judge. In Group judging, most exhibitors prefer announcements to be made in reverse order, and in this case, you can stand ready at the place markers to congratulate the winners and hand over prizes as the Ring Steward makes the announcement. Remember to thank the Ring Steward,
preferably at the same time that the Steward announces thanks just before the final awards.
Finally, if the Ring Steward has been recording your placings, you need to check that all is correct and you must endorse them as such. Remember, the recording of results is your responsibility so, even if the Ring Steward
may help in this regard, ultimately, you are responsible for any errors, so best you check each placement
carefully before signing.
Then, gather together all your belongings and the ring equipment, thank your Ring Steward again, privately, and make your way back to the Clubhouse for a well-deserved rest and some refreshment. Well done!
As buoyant as you will be feeling at this stage, avoid discussing the merits and demerits of the dogs you judged. It’s not fair to the exhibitors and, to other judges, it doesn’t leave a good impression. Remember to thank the Club Committee for inviting you.
https://www.kusa.co.za/Documents/Judges/Level1/L1JudgeTechnique.pdf
Author-Joy McFarlane
Published With due Permission , copyrighted to the Kennel Union of Southern Africa (KUSA)
Compiled & Shared by- Team, LITD (Livestock Institute of Training & Development) Image-Courtesy-Google Reference-On Request.
